The Tumultuous Journey To My Zenith Striking 10th Part Two
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: the road to our dream watches isn’t always a straight shot. Sure, sometimes it is, or at least relatively so. Acquiring my first two “grails,” the Tudor Black Bay and the Submariner, had simply been a matter of diligent saving and timely buying. Back in early 2018, however, the Zenith El Primero Striking 10th was proving much more difficult to procure. It was what I had deemed as my ultimate chronograph, and I would stop at absolutely nothing to own one. Or would I?In Part One of this series, I explained how I determined my “perfect” collection. I detailed my disappointment when, having hunted for over a y...
Wempe Breitling Navitimer Signature Collection
Wempe is launching a series of watches resulting from collaborations with brands from its portfolio. The famous jeweler will offer special limited editions of well-known watch models, which are exclusively available through Wempe’s physical stores and online shop. These collaboration pieces will form the Wempe Signature Collection. Together with Breitling, Wempe created the first timepiece in this line, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature Collection.The Navitimer is Breitling’s best-known model. The brand presented the first watch carrying this name in 1952. Originally, Breitling created it exclusively for the US-based Aircraft Owners And Pilots Association (AOPA), which m...
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/1A Wearing A Legend
I thought it would be a nice start to the day, having a coffee while sporting a Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/1A Jumbo. Ever since the Nautilus became THE hype watch, I became a Nautilus skeptic. Yes, Genta did a good job, and so did Patek, but not a $100,000 good job. Still, on the wrist, the original 3700/1A in particular is something special indeed. Yes, special enough to have a lengthy talk about it in the coffee corner. And if you want to spend some more time there before meandering back to your desk, you could also discuss the powerful Reservoir Label Noir Popeye, the off-roading Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Huracn Sterrato MB, and a very glossy book about exclusive Haute Horlogerie b...
The Best Affordable Watches Released In 2022
When it comes to new watches that don’t cost a fortune, 2022 has been a very good year. Of course, the term “affordable watches” has a different meaning for each of us, but for me, it means those under $1,000. Watches in that price range are within reach for many enthusiasts, and plus, we tend to be a very weak-willed species. Especially if a watch meets certain criteria and doesn’t break the bank, many of us can easily justify another purchase for under a grand.I was surprised at how many good options I could find under the $1K budget. I also have hands-on experience with most of these watches, and it’s remarkable how good the finishing and quality are getting ...
Minase Presents Bespoke Masterpiece Editions
Nestled in Akita Prefecture in Japan, Minase is a remote village with a mystical resemblance to the Vallee de Joux in Switzerland. Minase is also home to an artisan watch brand unlike any other. So much so, in fact, that the eponymous boutique watchmaker’s Divido was the choice of the late Prime Minister Abe. Combining its in-house case-making capabilities and Swiss mechanical movements, Minase has created a style steeped in traditional Japanese crafts. Being so unique, Minase produces less than 500 timepieces a year and offers bespoke options in its Masterpiece series.Handmade Japanese watchesAs a spin-off in 2005 from its parent company Kyowa - a tool manufacturer in the region since...
Hands-On With The Brand-New Meraud Bonaire MkII
About four years ago, I was looking for the dive watch with the best blue dial out there. The maximum budget was somewhere around $1,500. Even though the Meraud Bonaire sold for “only” $635 then, it still made the final two, together with the Zodiac Sea Wolf Topper Edition. Ultimately, I chose the Zodiac because it had a quirky checkered bezel. Today, Meraud launched an updated version of its Bonaire that would most definitely win against the Zodiac. The original Meraud Bonaire from 2018 The original’s side profile The original Meraud Bonaire, which was launched on Kickstarter, looked very nice, especially for that price, as it also had a Swiss STP m...
Photo Report:?Dutch Speedmaster GTG 2003
This year, I have attended a bunch of watch get-togethers (GTGs) organized by enthusiasts and collectors, most of which are not specific to any brand or watch. A local watch community often organizes them, and when I can, I will join (though I try to keep the weekends for family). This most recent get-together was organized by someone from the Speedmaster community, and it was in the Netherlands. This combination left me no excuse not to join!Watch roll with Moonwatches - Image: JukoSpeedmaster GTGThe exact location was only revealed on the day to guarantee the safety of all the attendees. This is quite a common thing to do because the guests tend to bring some (or all) of their precious wat...
Big News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genve
Breitling just announced its acquisition of Universal Genve. The legendary brand, previously owned by an investment firm from Hong Kong, is set to be brought back to its former glory under new ownership. Is the sky the limit for this heritage brand under Breitling's wings?Universal GenveUniversal Genve was founded in Le Locle as Universal Watch in 1894, and the company moved to Geneva in 1919. Universal released the Compur and the military Aero Compax chronograph in the 1930s. Later versions, such as the Uni-Compax and Tri-Compax?are highly collectible chronographs today.In 1954, Universal introduced the Gerald Genta-designed Polarouter, which would later be renamed “Polerouter.R...
Fratello On Air: Balazs Talks With Bosko About The Zenith 143-6
Mike and I are taking some time off from the podcast this week, but we’d still like to leave you with an episode. So this week, I’ll publish my talk with Bosko, the man behind the “Zenith Yugoslavian Military Chronograph Collector's Guide.” This guide won’t be out for another few days, but rest assured, it's coming this week. Don't worry; vintage chronographs are not the only topic the guys will discuss. While this is indeed a vintage-heavy episode, plenty of other timepieces get a mention....
Hands-On: The Seiko 5 Sports SSK023K1 and SSK025K1
Seiko has just announced the launch of two new Seiko 5 models - the SSK023K1 and SSK025K1. Though this debut comes late in the year, it’s an exciting one for sure. Last year, the brand introduced a trio of Seiko 5 GMT models in the SKX-style case. Back then, I called them “the best budget-friendly GMT watch out there.” The last 12 months have witnessed the introduction of pieces that have given them a run for their money, but are these latest offerings from the Japanese brand ready to dethrone them as such? Opinions will differ, but I believe they can.These two new models tick off plenty of boxes, even at a glance. A well-sized, affordable field watch with the addition of a...
Introducing: The Horage Omnium K2 Collection
During last month’s WatchPro Salon 2024 in London, we met with Horage and saw several pieces from the brand’s upcoming Omnium K2 collection. Due to a faceted crystal, these watches are a notably different take on a dress watch. I came away impressed with the creative approach.Horage has been in business for 15 years, but the company has increased its profile during the past few. Watches like the Lensman and Microreg have received praise for innovation and affordability. The new Omnium K2 is less audacious than those releases, but it still presents a unique take on an increasingly popular genre, the dress watch.The Horage Omnium K2 collectionThe latest Horage watches arrive in 37....
The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of IWC's Rich Past
Earlier this year, I wrote about a special watch from the International Watch Company Schaffhausen. That was the IWC reference IW3281-02, also known as the Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (henceforth called “IWC RAAF watch” for brevity). This special timepiece pays homage to the original IWC Mark 11 watches issued to the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF). I’ve just spent several weeks with one and decided to share my thoughts.The IWC RAAF watch is a timepiece that most of us cannot buy. To be eligible to purchase this particular watch, you need to be a current or former member of the Royal Australian Air Force. Recently, thanks to a friend in the RAAF, I have been lucky ...
Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M "Silver Surfer"
Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it also shows some considerable flaws. Normally, the hairs on the back of my neck react very strongly when watch brands mix and match eras in a watch while also disrespecting certain functional rules. Still, the disrespectful Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 210.30.42.20.06.002 strikes a chord with me, and it’s as dissonantly pleasing as the once-forbidden “Devil's t...
Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands
Hi there, and welcome to?Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become a valid thing to ponder. But do specs and value always trump a household name? And what about the difference in post-sales support? A legacy brand promises to be able to service a watch 20 years down the line. But can a micro/independent deliver on that promise? Clearly, there are many factors to consider, so tune in, listen to w...
TAG Heuer's new 100% in-house designed caliber 1887 OUCH!
Pioneering Swiss watchmaking for 150 years. According to the official TAG Heuer website that is, because there is some discussion around the ‘pioneering’ part. Their latest in-house manufactured caliber 1887 movement seems to be based on a Seiko movement. Nothing necessarily wrong with that,???? however, TAG Heuer’s press release stated that this caliber 1887 is a ‘designed 100% in-house’ movement. Even according to TAG Heuer’s CEO J. Babin, it is clearly not designed in-house, as the CEO himself is posting messages on several TAG Heuer forums to give an explanation to all TAG Heuer fans. His post on WatchUseek starts like this: “Hi, I’m J.C. B...
LinkedIn Discussion: Audemars Piguet or Hublot. Which one would you buy if this was the choice?
Since a year or two, a friend and I are running the ‘a Passion for Watches‘ group on LinkedIn. Over 3,000 watch enthusiasts joined and a relative high number of them participate in discussions. One of the more recent discussions is really worth mentioning here, as it started three months ago and still receives comments on a daily basis. The initial post was quite a simple question, “Audemars Piguet or Hublot. Which one would you buy if this was the choice?”. The votes are unanimously for Audemars Piguet.Although being a huge Audemars Piguet fan myself en would pick it any time over a Hublot, I will have to admit that I am a bit biased and never did much research in th...
Photo Essay: The Patek Philippe 5055
Today’s subject is one of the less common Patek Philippe models: the Ref. 5055. It’s powered by their staple Cal. 240 micro rotor movement, with the added complications of power reserve, moon phase, date and offset sub seconds. The movement of course carries the Geneva Seal, as with all Pateks.As usual, all images in this post may be clicked on for larger versions. Enjoy! MT...
TAG Heuer Carrera 1887 Jack Heuer Edition Bullhead Chronograph
TAG Heuer and chronographs go hand-in-hand and since we love chronographs here at Fratellowatches, we thought it is about time to zoom-in on one of the coolest chronographs we saw at the BaselWorld show this year. Dedicated to the man behind the Carrera, Jack Heuer, TAG Heuer came up with a very nice chronograph with their in-house caliber 1887 movement. Even better, they decided to use the design of a stopwatch and put it inside a watch case (with a strap). This means, that this watch has the classic bullhead chronograph design as you’ve probably seen from other brands in the past as well. TAG Heuer’s special piece this year, the Carrera MikroPendulumS has the same Bullhead desi...
Heart As An assistant: Patek Philippe 5230 & 7130G
The World Time watch ranks among the most popular complications in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection. Some time zone designations have changed or were replaced with new ones. Accordingly, Patek Philippe presented the World Time watch Ref. 5230, which has replaced all previous models. For ladies, there is the?World Time Ref. 7130G watch indicates all 24 time zones in a new white-gold version with a gray-blue hand-guilloched dial center.The movie below, shows the passion that Patek Philippe and all of its employees put into the creation of their watches. No rules or boundaries are taken into consideration when developing new ideas. This is also applicable for the World Timer complic...
Hands-On With The Maen Brooklyn 39 Automatic
Quartz watches only interest me when they have something special of specific to add. Like a multifunction watch such as the Breitling B55, the Omega Speedmaster X33, Tissot T-Touch, a G-Shock or something special like the discontinued OysterQuartz models from or one of the beautiful finished Grand Seiko watches with a caliber 9F movement. I don’t want to sound like a watch snob, but a quartz movement makes shifting through the pile of press releases and announcements we receive in our mailboxes every day relatively easy. For Maen I didn’t make an exception to be honest. Although their watches look very attractive, the fact that they have a quartz movement inside makes them less ...