Do I Need A Safe? The Logistics Behind A Growing Watch Collection
In a perfect world, it would be great to have all your watches at home, perhaps even on display or in a nice-looking presentation box. But the world isn't perfect, and there's always scum that will see you as a target. We can see that in the newspaper, or on Crimewatch UK, America's Most Wanted, or the equivalent in your country. Especially in recent years, a watch is enough to get you robbed or even killed. And if criminals are prepared to do that, they're also prepared to pay you a visit at home.When I started out collecting, safety was not so much of an issue. Firstly, I bought watches that weren't very expensive. I just kept them in my room when I was a student. Just to be sure, I bought...
Gay Frres The Most Impactful Parts Supplier Of All?
What do the Oyster, Zenith ladder, and Heuer beads-of-rice bracelets have in common? And the iconic integrated bracelets from the Royal Oak and Nautilus? Oh, and the Bonklip and Patek beads-of-rice? Well, they were all original designs from a company named Gay Frres, a cha?niste established in 1835 and integrated by in 1998. It is, arguably, the parts supplier that had the biggest impact on today's watches of all. Time to have a closer look!The bracelet is a crucial part of your watch. Its impact on overall aesthetics and wearing comfort cannot be overstated. In fact, in many of the examples above, the bracelet has become a defining feature. Isn't it amazing that a single company is behin...
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGJ271 Yukigesho'
Grand Seiko's Elegance line has produced several fan favorites in recent memory. Most of them have centered around a particular round case that usually features a GMT function. Several limited editions have come out in this shape with various dial colors and different movements. The new Grand Seiko SBGJ271 “Yukigesho” model, depicting snow that has fallen on tree branches, is a stunning timepiece that is sure to fit right in among the popular watches in this line.Winter, not seasonsGrand Seiko watches that evoke the natural scenery of a particular time of year are nothing new. Since the launch of the first “Seasons” collection several years ago, we have all come to kn...
The Best Seiko Tuna Models Available Today Top 3
This story is one of the most selfishly motivated ones I have written in a while, and I'm not ashamed to admit it. Through these last four or five years, I have had almost all the cult-classic Seiko divers rotating through my collection, from Turtle to Samurai, and from Shogun to Marinemaster. There is, however, a big, can-shaped hole in my Seiko history that needs filling up. No, I have never owned a Tuna. For some reason, this charmingly circular can of toughness has never graced either my glass-fronted cabinet or my mid-sized wrist.I came close when Seiko released the fashion-forward Street series a couple of years ago. But for some reason, that color-coded approach seems to have failed, ...
Vintage Watches In 2024 A Return To Our Roots
Much to my amazement, 2024 marks my 10th year of writing for Fratello. Wow, how time has flown by! During this time, I’ve covered all sorts of topics, but my primary focus has always been on vintage watches. I have an undying love for older timepieces, and I’m thankful that Robert-Jan allowed me to kick off #TBT years ago. Aside from reviewing vintage pieces, I’ve also dabbled in discussions about the market, and that’s exactly what I’ll be doing again today.If you listen to some of the pundits, they’ll remark that the market for vintage watches is dead. Well, that’s an absolute overstatement in my opinion, but there’s no doubt that the bull ru...
Piaget Polo 79 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Don’t look so surprised! You already knew exactly which watches would go head to head in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 was probably the watch that was most frequently mentioned after Piaget released its new Polo 79 this week. And it makes sense. They’re both based on an earlier version from the ’70s. Both watches have a so-called “integrated bracelet” design and are made out of 18K yellow gold. Even their (completely random) list prices are very similar at just over $80,000. But get yourself ready to vote because, despite all of these similarities, today, only one of them can win.This week, it was Thomas and D...
Introducing: The Czapek Promenade With A Plisse Dial
Last year, Czapek introduced the new Promenade collection. Its design combines influences from the brand’s Quai des Bergues and Antarctique lines. Apart from the hollowed-out lugs and mid-case, the watches look quite classic. However, the peculiar dial designs are the real stars of the Promenade collection. The same goes for the newly introduced Promenade Plisse, which comes with a textile-inspired dial design.At Fratello, we’re big fans of Czapek’s Promenade. Last December, we presented our limited-edition version, the Promenade Transparencies Viridian Green. That watch has a transparent and gradient green dial through which you can see Czapek’s SXH7 micro-rotor move...
Hands-On: Tissot PR516 Automatic Chronograph
Tissot released the PR516 Automatic Chronograph last month. The cool colorway and automatic caliber piqued our interest. So today, I’m going hands-on with one to see what it is all about. Could this be the chronograph to buy the sub-$2.5K segment, or does it miss the mark?This new model debuts a self-winding chronograph movement in the Tissot PR516 line. That has the potential of making it the ultimate PR516, so let's find out!The Tissot PR516 Automatic ChronographLet's start with a quick recap of the PR516 Automatic Chronograph's specifications. For a full rundown, track back to RJ's introduction article. You get a 41mm stainless steel case with a 49.5mm length and 14.2mm thickness. T...
Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs Part 1
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we begin a two-part series on vintage chronographs. Apparently, our listeners like hearing about these complicated watches that measure elapsed time. Note that the watch content starts after approximately 25 minutes....
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026
A few weeks ago, I visited the Omega headquarters in Biel, and the folks there showed me this new handsome white-dial Seamaster 37mm. It ticks many boxes for me, and many of you also enjoy the return of the dog-leg lugs and vintage-style cases. Omega also shipped the watch to us, so it’s time for a hands-on review. Does it live up to my expectations? Let's have a closer look.Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026Daan already wrote the introduction article on this watch on its release date, so I will not go into all the specifications and background stories too much. If you’re looking for that, you can find his article here.I am a fan of the Omega Constellation and have a modest colle...
Panerai and Long sleeves
Someone at the Paneristi.com forum asks: “Do you think it is better to wear PAM outside or inside long sleeves?? i feel so strange..better with the short sleeves, i think..but for people who are working and wearing long sleeves, how?”Well, to be honest.. I hate short sleeves. Especially in combination with a suit, short sleeves are never an option. So, long sleeves and a Panerai. Although I think a Panerai goes very well with a suit, sleeves might be a problem. Some cuffs just don’t allow it to hide a Panerai. So most of the time, it will look like Nad’s picture below.Picture by Nad.Another option, also given as an answer in the forum, is to start wearing tailored shi...
Ornatus Mundi
Magus Bosse, regular on TimeZone and owner of the Ornatus Mundi site, posted an essay on Minerva watches on TimeZone. And not to forget, Magnus Bosse is moderating the official Blancpain forum.The first collection (called 1858) of Minerva after their change of management is showed on the TimeZone Minerva Forum.Below, you’ll see the Minerva Coll. 1858 Cal. 48 White Gold case/grey dial. By clicking here you will find the complete essay by Magnus.Picture by Magnus Bosse....
A Closer Look at a Bell & Ross Classic: the Vintage 123
When thinking of Bell & Ross many relate the company to the popular and conspicuous designs of the BR “Instruments.” It is pretty obvious that these square watches were responsible for exploding the manufacturer’s popularity, but Bell & Ross was very active even before the BR timepieces existed. Bell & Ross had built a solid collection of more traditional watches, of which one of the best sellers was the Vintage 123. The Vintage 123, attracted many watch enthusiasts thanks to its palpable high quality, simple and clean design, and great value. These are all reasons why it is still in demand today.Presently the Vintage 123 is attracting many clients, albeit diffe...
Speedmaster CK2998-3 FAP (Fuerza Aerea del Peru) | Fratellowatches
It’s Speedy Tuesday! We came across this very rare OMEGA Speedmaster CK2998-3 last week on the interwebs. A normal ref. CK2998 Speedmaster is already becoming rare, but how about this FAP version. FAP stands for Fuerza Aerea del Peru which means that this Speedmaster has been issued to the Air Force of Peru.The OMEGA Speedmaster CK2998 is the successor of the very first Speedmaster, the ref. CK2915. In 1959, OMEGA introduced the CK2998 which has the same case, but with a different bezel, dauphin hands instead of the broad arrow hands and O-ring gaskets on the pushers. The Speedmaster CK2998 was in production between 1959 and 1963 and was actually the watch that was worn by Wally Schirr...
Speedmaster Automatic Chronometer For Ladies | Fratellowatches
Speedy Tuesday is here! Just recently, after a few of our posts on Instagram (follow @fratellowatches also on Instagram) we got in touch with Kathleen Yap. She followed-up with her precious Speedmaster in white. In case you didn’t know, also ladies can join Speedy Tuesday with specific ladies’ Speedmaster watches.Kathleen is wearing one of our favorite ladies Speedmaster models, reference 324.30.38.40.04.001. A white dialed 38mm Speedmaster, much like the Speedy Reduced we know from the mens collection, with an automatic chronometer movement caliber 3304. This model is available on a stainless steel bracelet as well as on an alligator strap in white (reference 324.33.38.40.04.001...
Zenith El Primero 410 Review
One of my first encounters with the Zenith El Primero movement was in the late 1990s, when my watchmaker picked up a watch of mine wearing his EL Primero Chronomaster in gold. This model, probably reference 17.0240.410/01.C495, had a full calendar on board including a moon phase indicator.The Zenith El Primero was one of the first automatic chronograph watches that was introduced back in 1969. Ever since, Zenith has been developing and enhancing their flag ship chronograph caliber. You might have missed our visit report of the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle (click here), as I already have written it there, but the level of craftsmanship in the Zenith El Primero movement was pretty amazing to...
Vintage Market Update: Winter 2016 move quickly!
It's been roughly three months since our last Vintage Market update, so it's high time for another. It's the middle of winter for most of our readership and it also coincides with a relatively dead spot in the calendar, so why not kick back and read a little bit about what's been happening and what may come? In this installment of the Vintage Market update, I'll cover some relatively recent phenomena while doing my best to highlight some relatively available opportunities. Let's jump inPieces like this Vulcain were once plentiful on the market – not anymoreThe market for vintage sports watches was hot a year ago and it's only reached more of a boil since that time. To provide a little ...
Casio G-Steel GST-W130L is 52Mondayz week #7 watch
Two electronic watches on Fratello Watches the same day, what are we thinking? The one I’m wearing this week, however, is totally different from the Grand Seiko Robert-Jan covered here today though. The Casio G-Shock GST-W130L is 52Mondayz week #7 watch.Casio G-Shock GST-W130LShowing the World Time function, with here UTC in the upper two round digital displaysHence, what s so totally different about these watches? I wouldn’t say that the movement Casio uses here, their caliber (Casio uses the term ‘module’) 5515, isn’t high-end. In a totally different way, however. It’s probably not beautifully decorated and finished, but it’s extremely functional....
The Grand Seiko SBGV238 Shows Chutzpah
Not particularly a fan of quartz, but I don’t hate it either. Especially when it is done right, in a special way or with specific functionality (think Breitling ExoSpace or Omega’s X-33 for example). The Grand Seiko does not provide digital or ‘specific’ functionality, but the quartz movement surely is special. In fact, I prefer a Grand Seiko 9F quartz movement over some of the (non-Grand Seiko) mechanical movements out there. So before you click away, because it is about quartz, you might want to keep reading.Some times, quartz can be done in an interesting way, even without digital functions. Like did with their Oysterquartz movements, it was in production for roug...
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph A (Inter)Stellar New Release
Five years after the release of the hit movie Interstellar, we're treated to something that fans of the movie and watches alike have pined for: a serial production version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph.The 2014 Christopher Nolan film was incredibly popular and depicted Matthew McConaughey as a NASA physicist Cooper who travels via a wormhole to another dimension in order to find a place where Earth's population can escape what has become a dying planet. Before leaving to this other dimension, he hands his daughter Murph, played by Jessica Chastain, his watch. While showing a watch in a film isn't so unique, the timepiece plays a greater role later in the film as Cooper communicates with ...