Louis Moinet Presents The Astronef Techno Unique Piece
Imagine a statement piece that combines high-end mechanics with animated art to create a wrist-mounted spectacle. Louis Moinet’s Astronef Techno does just that, turning heads for all the right reasons. As an extension of the Astronef family, its flying satellite double tourbillon now perches above a color-bursting, microelectronic dial crafted from silicon wafers.The novelty made its sneak-peek debut last week, capturing the imaginations of many. Now the independent Haute Horlogerie brand is ready to share it with a global audience. In typical Louis Moinet fashion, this unique piece boasts a host of inventive features and attention-grabbing moves. In fact, it'd be better to see it in a...
Fratello Talks: What's The Deal With Watch Prices?
In today’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex take a look at and try to make sense of watch prices today. It’s often a hot topic of discussion in the comments. In a world where price increases happen two or more times a year, it’s a challenge to keep up with where value lies. But is it a mistake to expect bang-for-buck in the world of luxury? Then, the matter of brands’ positioning within the world of watches comes into play. As watch enthusiasts, we are aware of the plate tectonics within the watch industry and can feel when something doesn’t sit quite right. So, how do we make sense of all of this? That’s the question. But before we attempt to...
Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58
Getting your ocean-capable watches wet has been a mantra I’ve taken to countless reviews. But long have I postponed taking my dive watch, the blue Tudor Black Bay 58, scuba diving.The reasons are many. Frankly, though, none of them are good enough to justify how someone (a passionate ocean enthusiast, at that) who lives 60 meters from the Pacific Ocean does not scuba dive by now.It’s not you, it’s me…In fact, you could say I’m a thalassophile - one who loves the sea. That term comes from the Greek word for the sea, thlassa (?˦ҦҦ). This doesn’t just mean someone who likes a swim during summer. No, I miss the ocean like I would miss a dear friend when I&...
Introducing: Bvlgari MB&F Serpenti Horological Machine
Of course, we can’t buy all the watches in the world, and not all watches are within our budgets. So, especially as someone who professionally writes about watches, I’ve learned to appreciate ones that are not in my financial scope or simply not my style. In some cases, that’s harder to do than in others. But with the creations from MB&F, it’s usually not that hard. Take this week’s release of the collaborative effort between Bvlgari and MB&F as an example. The new Horological Machine called Serpenti is hard not to appreciate, even though it might not be within your budget or match your style, right?The Bvlgari MB&F Serpenti is the result of two very...
U-Boat U-51 Rattrapante Complicated Watch An Amplified Masterpiece
Italo Fontana has very well figured out how to design big watches. U-Boat watches are between 45mm and 55mm in diameter and even reach 65mm in the particular case of the U-1942. One thing that has not been associated much with these gargantuan timepieces, however, are complications. Showing that they are at the height of more traditional watchmakers to produced complicated watches, U-Boat released the U-51 Rattrappante complicated model.With a complex system of levers, springs, and pinions, the “rattrapante” or split-second chronograph movement is one of horology’s finest mechanisms. Its function is to allow the user to mark a time measurement without stopping the ongoing t...
Watchstars 2014 Awards The Winners
I am happy to announce the 2014 WatchStars Award winners, voted by almost 50 international and independent jury members.An independent international panel of experts selected timepieces in five categories, from Swatch to Patek Philippe via Kari Voutilainen. The almost 50 international jury members (click here for an overview of all jury members) were free to choose any brand, model, reference number for these five different categories.Classic Stars –?Three-handed watches with no functions other than a date and/or power reserve indicator are included in this category. All watches in the Classic Stars category must have mechanical movements. Only watches that were launched between Januar...
Speedy Tuesday The Rare But Unloved Speedmaster Rattrapante Chronometer
Years ago, even before I started Fratello Watches, I visited this Omega dealer?near the place where my parents lived. I think I might already have my first Speedmaster that I bought in October 1999, so probably around 2000/2001.?The sales person showed me this – then – new Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante Chronometer reference 3540.50. At the time, a futuristic looking watch with a carbon fibre dial and 3 rectangular pushers. A pusher to start/stop the movement, one to reset the chronograph hands and one (at 10 o’clock) to operate the split-seconds.The stainless steel case (42.25mm) showed a lot of resemblance with the – in 1998 – introduced Speedmaster Professiona...
#TBT Junghans Bundeswehr Chronograph
As most of you know we try to bring a diverse selection of vintage watches to #TBT week after week. It's obvious that among vintage watches we (at least Mike and I definitely) have a soft spot for complications. Nowadays the most sought after of these happen to be chronographs, but you all know this by now. So what is cooler than a vintage chrono? A vintage military chrono!Junghans BundeswehrAs most of you know we try to bring a diverse selection of vintage watches to #TBT week after week. It's obvious that among vintage watches we (at least Mike and I definitely) have a soft spot for complications. Nowadays the most sought after of these happen to be chronographs, but you all know this by n...
Vintage Breitling: the Expert Interviews
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Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Collection
In this Sunday morning column, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And don't forget to let us know which watches you'd like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. We'll try and feature as many of our readers' choices as we can. This week, the controversial Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet gets its day in the sun. Hold onto your hats: This could get messy…You weren’t expecting this, were you? I’m sure most people imagined we’d take-on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak having put the Vacheron Constantin Oversea...
Head-To-Head: Omega Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Vs. Speedmaster Calibre 321
When Omega introduced the Speedmaster 60th Anniversary in 2017, it was a big thing! It was a tribute to the original Speedmaster reference CK2915, but with the calibre 1861 movement. Then, in 2020, Omega introduced the 105.003 tribute with its calibre 321. How do these two watches compare? Is it worth going after a Speedmaster 60th anniversary, or do you want to save up a bit more for the Speedmaster Calibre 321?After publishing our video where I compare the Speedmaster Calibre 321 with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Master Chronometer, I received some requests to have a look at the Speedmaster 60th anniversary as well. And then, last week in the #SpeedyTuesday Facebook group, someon...
Hands-On: Oris Aquis GMT Whale Shark Limited Edition Watch
Oris has been making big steps over these last twelve months. Obviously, we were delighted to work with the brand on our Fratello Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date. Next to that, the brand released its new Calibre 400 to much critical acclaim. And we have seen a string of new releases, the latest being the Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition. Now Oris is back with a new release for its Change for the Better campaign. The new Whale Shark Limited Edition might just be the best in the series yet. I had a chance to check it out.Back in August of last year, I had the pleasure of trying out the Oris Aquis Hangang Limited Edition. It was a nice break from most of the watches released in the ser...
The Mysterious Vintage Citizen Auto Dater 40M Diver ADOS 3001-D
Today, we examine a rare vintage Citizen Auto Dater 40M Diver. We’ll talk about why this watch also happens to be a bit of an enigma. Its good looks, however, require no sleuthing.One could say that we have our “boat on plane” here on Fratello when it comes to looking at vintage Japanese watches (i.e., we’re cruising). You folks seem to like seeing these unique pieces from yesteryear, so we’ll keep the throttle down for the foreseeable. The Citizen Auto Dater 40M Diver we’re discussing today just so happens to rank as one of the most beloved pieces in my vintage Japanese watch collection. It’s a diver and I fall for those easily, but it’s one o...
Watch Dating Profiles: Russia Sturmanskie, Poljot, and Raketa
We’re back again with another edition of Watch Dating Profiles. This time we’re going to Russia, where the vodka is cold and the watches are jettisoned into outer space. Seriously, Russian watches today either look back in history or towards the future, but almost always to space. There’s a lot of space to look at with Russian watches too. With the longest history of space exploration of any country, there’s been time for many different watches to leave the atmosphere. So who’s it gonna be? The Sturmanskie Gagarin 60 Years, a remake of the first watch in space? The vintage Poljot 3133 Chronograph, another space record-setter with a 1970’s design? Or perhap...
Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium 45mm In Green
I love the visionary idea that Carlo Crocco had in the late 1970s to create a watch that combined different materials. With the Hublot Classic that came out in 1980, Crocco created a watch that combined a yellow gold case with a rubber strap. Back then, it was considered pure blasphemy. To combine a precious metal with the material generally associated with cheap quartz watches was unheard of. Four decades later, however, it is an often-seen combination of materials. Additionally, the Classic Fusion is still part of the current Hublot collection, and it is a great reminder of Crocco’s legacy. I had a chance to try the current 45mm green Classic Fusion in titanium and determine if his v...
Five Grand Seiko Alternatives With Stunning Dials
When it comes to creating mesmerizing and original dials, Grand Seiko is an industry benchmark. Snowflakes, white and green birches, the brilliant blue sky over Mt. Iwate at dawn - it's the beauty surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi translated into dial art. But GS is not the only brand with an obsession for dials. That's why it's time to present you with five dialed-in alternatives to Grand Seiko watches. We’ll start in Japan with Minase, fly to Malaysia to visit MING, then head over to Glasgow in Scotland to check out AnOrdain. Then we’ll travel to a small German town to take a look at Glashutte Original, and end up back in Japan because Seiko's Presage collection co...
Unimatic Introduces The New Modello Uno U1S-ET
You guys know by now that I am a fan of Unimatic. I won’t lie, I love the design signature of the Milan-based brand a lot. With their minimalist design approach, Unimatic founders Simone Nunziato and Giovanni Moro have found the magic canvas for their timepieces. The style they developed is modern, minimalist, and easy to recognize overall. But the next layer is that the style combines very well with different influences without ever losing its recognizable character. Further proof of that comes once more in the form of the brilliant new Unimatic Modello Uno U1S-ET.Loving a design signature is a strange phenomenon. When it comes to Unimatic, I don’t love all of the brand’s ...
#TBT A Fascinating Unicorn Alpina "Leftie"
It’s easy to end up in an exciting discussion about Heuer, Omega, or watches. But didn’t know many collectors that would lose track of time when discussing Alpina until I met Bas from Vintage View. Today, we will look at his personal treasure, a Valjoux 13-powered Alpina “Leftie”.I got to know Bas on Gallet fan pages. He had a nice MultiChron 12 with minty-green lume that I bought from him at some point. We started to follow each other on Instagram shortly after. I could not believe my eyes when he posted a simple Alpina time-only watch. To my greatest surprise, he kept posting his new vintage Alpina additions, including some of the brand’s rare chronographs.My...
The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa
Today, on white sands by the crystalline waters of the Rangiroa Atoll in French Polynesia, Blancpain unveiled the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the birth of what many recognize as the first modern dive watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Since 1953, watches and diving have both come a long way. This should not come as a surprise, as seven decades are enough to bring change to just about anything. Today, the brand behind the timepieces on the wrists of those brave enough to venture underwater in the early 1950s launches a watch designed for the pioneers in the field today. With how far scuba diving and all the associated technology have come since those ...
Why I Picked My Grand Seiko SBGA439 Over A Ming
Seiko is one of those brands that many of us start looking at when we get into this hobby. However, it took me a while to appreciate Seiko, and as always, it started with some vintage pieces. I think my first model was a King Seiko that I got after seeing RJ’s a good few years ago. When Grand Seiko became a separate brand and slowly started to claim space in the industry on its merit, I was eager to see what would unfold. Over the years, I got closer and closer to owning a GS but never pulled the trigger. It took me years of lurking around, two trips to Tokyo, and my followers on Instagram to finally push me over the edge. What I landed on might not be the funkiest Grand Seiko model, b...