The New Speedmaster With Caliber 321 "Ed White"
On this very first Speedy Tuesday of 2020, we have some exciting news to share with you. It took Omega exactly one year from the introduction of the new caliber 321 to the introduction of the first steel Speedmaster with this movement. On this very day, one year ago, Speedy Tuesday fans were invited to Biel to witness the re-introduction of this column-wheel chronograph movement, and the guessing began.Only a few out there guessed it right, and in hindsight, it is easy to tell you that the big give-away was the watch that was used as the subject for their tomography process to get the exact version of the caliber 321 that was used in Gene Cernan’s watch, a Speedmaster 105.003.It was th...
#TBT Why Isn't the Nivada Wanderer An Easy Watch To Find?
I was hunting down the Nivada Grenchen Wanderer for a few years. And, as life usually goes, it came at a time and place I least expected. It literally found me.? I?think it was mostly the unusual off-proportion bezel/dial design and the mechanical alarm complication that sparked my attention. Interestingly enough, it looks like a standard three-hander with quite a generic dial, but the extra hand and crazy bezel magnetized me. If I?tried hard to formulate the magic spell that the watch has upon me, I?would call it a strange mix of carefully contrasting design codes.Nivada Wanderer surpriseWhere to start? If it was only a clean dial, I would call it a day and forget the watch. But the bezel s...
Hands-On Review Of The Unimatic Modello Quattro U4-A Watch
Could Unimatic have done any better in 2020? That was the question I asked myself when I received an e-mail in the second week of December announcing the new Unimatic Modello Quatro U4-A. Two weeks before the year ended, the brand added another model to the rapidly-expanding line-up of Unimatic models. But the Modello Quattro is not just another addition. It’s a completely new model that combines familiar looks with surprising new design details. So yes, 2020 could become even better for the brand as it turns out.In 2020 we saw a string of interesting releases from Unimatic. The Milan-based brand started by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato has showered us with a great variety of watch...
Fratello On Air Podcast: Owning A Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch
It’s that time again! Alon and Rob catch-up over the phone for Episode 32 of Fratello On Air. A relatively snappy show (at just under 40 minutes), focuses on what it’s like to own and wear a Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic watch among other things…Alon Ben Joseph has been a Bvlgari dealer for six years. He’s been a Bvlgari owner, however, for three. He finally decided to pull the trigger on a model from the famous Italien brand when the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (in titanium and on a titanium bracelet) was released at Baselworld 2017. Now, three years on, Rob wants to know what he makes of it....
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf ZO9210 Keeping It Simple
The recently relaunched Zodiac Super Sea Wolf line has made a big splash in the watch world. To say such a thing is similar to declaring the Pacific Ocean a pretty large body of water - an obvious understatement. Zodiac’s heritage reissues have certainly struck a nostalgic chord with a large segment of the watch-buying public. These vibrant and cheerful timepieces have connected with many harboring a deep-seated desire to own and wear something fun. This is in contrast to - or perhaps because of - the gray gloominess of our times. If there is any single constant that could account for the success and enthusiasm towards these pieces, it would undoubtedly be their bold use of color. Brig...
Patek Philippe Watches For Less Than A Nautilus
For many out there, Patek Philippe is the pinnacle of watchmaking. And rightfully so, with beautiful Complication and Grand Complication watches in the Patek collection. And then, of course, there are the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, which have reached incredible heights of popularity in recent years. The Nautilus, especially, has been at the forefront of desirability for a while now.But “Nautilus fever” has not always been a thing. I remember my colleague buying a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A right at list price when it came out in 2006. At the time of introduction, the retail price was $14,700. It increased to around $16K shortly after, though. Not too long ago, the lo...
The Humble Casio F-91W Telling The Story Of My First Watch
Do you remember your first watch? Most of us probably have some hazy memories from our early years that we can't quite decipher. Personally, I remember a very small (likely under 30mm) Mickey Mouse watch on a blue leather strap. There's also a picture in which a five-or-six-year-old me is wearing something on an orange strap on my right wrist. The picture is accompanied by the feeling that it was a cheap toy, rather than anything used to actually tell the time. But the only tangible memory, the only one I can empirically back up with a watch that is still around and ticking, is that of my Casio F-91W.I'm sure many of you have similar stories. For a lot of people, the first watch is something...
Mike's Watch Resolutions For 2023: Quiet Consumption?
I have to admit that I’m not a big fan of New Year’s resolutions. Aside from watch collecting, I’m a fairly moderate and healthy person, so I see little reason to make sweeping changes. That being said, it is fun to look at the year ahead and think about what may occur. So, I’ll do my best to come up with some watch resolutions.This year is a weird one because I’m entering it with very few expectations or concrete desires. I feel “full” if that makes any sense. This is a popular time of year for people to declutter or minimalize after a month of gluttony. The difference is that I’ve felt this way for months. That feeling translated into a coupl...
Building A Watch Brand: Follow Thomas As He Develops A Watch
New year, new goals. Mine is building a watch brand. Wait, what? Yes! I have set myself a ridiculously ambitious challenge for this year. I spend my time reviewing and critiquing other people's work. The time has come to take up the gauntlet and see how well I fare myself. And I want to take you along for the ride to show what it involves.That means you might see me succeed or fail miserably. Or something in between. It will most likely be a bumpy ride, and I will not censor any of it. In this first installment, I will provide an introduction and my reasons for building a watch brand.Why I am building a watch brandQuite some time ago now, I made a career switch. I came from a very competitiv...
Fratello On Air: Reflecting On 2024
We’re finally back with another episode of Fratello On Air after a lengthy break from the holidays, illness, and travel! This week, we’re reflecting on 2024 and some key events that shaped the year. Enjoy the episode, and we look forward to 2025! For our listeners, the watch content begins after 27 minutes....
A Speedy Collector's Story: Marking A Special Olympic Moment
We kick off the first Tuesday of 2025 with a reader’s story on his Speedmaster. This week’s contribution comes from Ricardo Rio, who resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ricardo has been part of the Speedy Tuesday community for a long time. He has a professional background in sports and joined BMX Freestyle cyclist Jose Torres at the Olympic Games in Paris.Competing with Olympic riflesI will begin this article by sharing that I started my sports career very young. When I was eight, my father taught me to shoot with a Diana Mod. 25 air rifle. Shooting fascinated me because of the precision, concentration, and complete psychophysical self-control it demands. I started competing at 1...
History On The Wrist: A Dutch Army Watch By Universal Geneve
You all know Universal Geneve as a watch brand that had some great models like the tri-compax chronographs and the Polerouter model. The Polerouter has a lot of vintage watch fans, and there is even a dedicated website for this particular model (click here).Universal Geneve also made military watches, and one of these models were sold to the Royal Dutch Army. These watches were issued to the Dutch soldiers during the late 1930s, just before World War II started for The Netherlands (on the 10th of May 1940). The dial of the Universal Geneve features a ‘W’ symbol, which was the initial of Queen Wilhelmina of The Netherlands. Queen Wilhelmina ruled The Netherlands from 1890 till 194...
Speedy Tuesday Speedmaster Schumacher Yellow
Omega Speedmaster SchumacherIt’s Speedy Tuesday! This week’s topic is the yellow Speedmaster ‘Schumacher’. Omega introduced the Speedmaster ‘Schumacher’? in 1996 and was in production till 1999.As you might know, the Speedmaster was originally introduced as a watch for race car drivers. Or wannabe race car drivers. The very first Speedmaster advertisements were also referring to this, as can be seen below:The Speedmaster Schumacher (case number ST175.0032 or ref.3810.12.40) was – of course – being introduced by their (then) ambassador, Michael Schumacher. His brother – and also F1 car racer – Ralf Schumacher was also an Omega ambass...
Hands-On Oris Calibre 111 Review An Oris Artelier Timepiece With In-House Movement
“Real watches for real people” is the slogan of Oris and although I seldomly take these kind of lines very serious, this one?does make sense actually. Real people, like you and me, who have to save-up for a nice watch, a real watch. Don’t be mislead by all the images of tourbillon watches or minute repeaters shown everywhere, they only represent a very small market. Oris showed us that they were able to move the watch industry, or more important, its consumers, with their $1700 Euro Sixty-Five divers watch. Where a lot of other brands were occupied last year with increasing prices and trying to justify these to their clients (retailers and consumers) during the SIHH and Bas...
Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm 52Mondayz, week #2
That’s one of the advantages being a watch journalist: wearing so many different watches. More than one reasonably could have ever have bought. This week is no exception. I am able to try the Omega Constellation Globemaster in stainless steel and Sedna gold.Omega Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mmA serious model indication, isn’t it? It seems to me that Omega is proud about the specifications of their watches, and they’re eager to let you know them. This two-tone Globemaster is a serious watch as well however.Who’s afraid of gold and steel?Personally I've never been afraid of gold and steel (two-tone) watches, and a few of them are always in my...
Zelos Abyss 2 3000m. Engineered for the Extremes.
Since its inception in 2014, Zelos has been a microbrand popular for its bronze timepieces. Bronze has always been closely linked to the sea as it is one of the most corrosion resistant metals available. A patina forms over time, creating completely unique pieces.? What starts out as a shiny rose-gold, ages with the atmosphere into a rustic brown. Hence, bronze was the perfect choice for a diver's watch made for the deepest depths.Zelos Abyss 2 3000MThe Abyss 2 was engineered for the extremes. It offers 3000m of water resistance, the pressure at that depth is enough to crush steel. A 7mm thick and highly domed sapphire crystal is built to withstand the forces that would crush most regular sa...
Omega Caliber 321 Is Back In Production! Breaking Story!
This is the day that I have been waiting for, for a long time. And I know that many of your Speedmaster fans out there have been waiting for this as well. That day that Omega announces that they will bring their famous column-wheel caliber 321 chronograph movement back in production. Today is the day my friends, on this 2nd Speedy Tuesday of 2019. This is big, it is a historical moment for Speedmaster enthusiasts, I would say.It is the reason that we are having a Speedy Tuesday event in Bienne today, at the headquarters of Omega, to witness the re-introduction of the caliber 321 movement. Even better, our Speedy Tuesday readers who got selected from tons of registrations are able to see the ...
Speedy Tuesday In Conversation With A Speedmaster, Space And Lego Fan
The first image I’ve come across from the guy we have on Fratello today was in this dedicated Speedy Tuesday Facebook group?where he showed an incredible nice composition of the first Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday (2017) and some props.These props often consist of everyday things and Lego. A lot of Lego. Space Lego to be precise. Being a kid from the 1980s, I often recognize the little figures he uses as Space Lego was my favourite as well. Recently, he started an Instagram account (@Plywoodemoji) where he shares his artwork with the rest of the world. In the meantime, he also purchased the Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday “Ultraman” and did some amazing compositions with this editi...
Wrist Game or Crying Shame: AP Royal Oak Military Dial
Welcome back to Wrist Game or Crying Shame, the weekly series that aims to make all of your New Year’s Resolutions come true! This week, we take a look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Military Dial.Can you believe it was something like three weeks ago that we were last here on Wrist Game or Crying Shame? That’s so last decade that I can’t even recall what the heck we were discussing. Thankfully, through the futuristic powers of the internet, I used the search function on the Fratello page and found that we last looked at the Genta-penned IWC Ingenieur SL Jumbo from back in the ’70s. You guys must have been riding that sweet stock market spike during that article̵...
TAG Heuer Autavia Watch Collection Boosted By Hairspring Upgrade
Beauty, they say, is only skin deep. That turned out to be the case for the well-received TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph models released last year before a worldwide product recall prompted speculation regarding the performance of the revolutionary Isograph hairspring. Thankfully, the LVMH powerhouse has stepped-up with a tried and tested solution - the trusty Caliber 5.Product recalls are a nightmare. It doesn’t matter how impressive the launch venue was. No one cares how tasty the canapes were, or how easily the champagne went down. No, despite what the modern world of luxury sales would have you believe on occasion, the product still matters. It is the king. And the buying public? Well,...