Grand Finale: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary
For a sweet ten-year run from 2012 with the Octo to 2022 with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, Bvlgari dominated the world records for ultra-thin mechanical watches. But, as they say, all good things must end. So perhaps it's not a jaw-dropping surprise that the Roman jeweler is announcing the conclusion of its quest for thinness. Insisting the Octo Finissimo is not taking a final bow, Bvlgari has staged an uber sendoff with high-tech gadgetry for the Octo Finissimo Ultra to open up a new digital future.The no-news newsIt all sounds a bit mysterious if not confusing, to be honest. On one hand, the Octo Finissimo's presence was evidently not the focus at this year's LVMH Watch Week. On the other han...
Balazs's Watch Goals For 2023: Consolidation And More
While many of my fellow editors said it’s challenging to pen a Watch Goals article, it is actually easy for me. Perhaps it is due to the simple fact that I will not mention anything new. Everything I have planned for 2023 has already been on my watch to-do list for years. Sadly, I’m a person who procrastinates more than I should, but this article will hopefully help me realize those plans. Don’t think of anything crazy. It is just a few boring things like maintenance and collection consolidation, perhaps with just one or two new watch purchases. We will see how it goes.Once your collection reaches a substantial number of watches, it’s time to take a step back and look...
Introducing: The New Cartier Tank Fran?aise
Big news from Cartier! The new Cartier Tank Fran?aise is here! The model that debuted back in 1996 has now received an update. Cartier’s new Tank Fran?aise has a mostly satin finish, a recessed crown, and a more rounded case profile. Furthermore, the large-size model comes with an automatic movement.An early Tank from 1922The iconic TankThe Cartier Tank goes all the way back to 1917 - wartime - hence the inspiration from the Renault tank that you’ll find in the case shape of the Tank watch. From then onwards, Cartier introduced several variations and iterations of the Tank. Perhaps the most iconic is the version that was introduced back in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier (which we c...
#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch
Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it…I was wrong. The Sicura Safari knife watch pops quite rarely. It’s one of the watches that I tried to actively search for through multiple auction sites for years, but not a single listing showed up. I kept bugging one of my watch penfriends to let his Sicura Safari go, but he successfully resisted my annoying demands.Landing a Sicura SafariIn the middle of November last year, Rainer, another one of my watch penfriends, sent me an Instag...
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange In Vintage And New Form
Nivada Grenchen has been on a roll since its return in 2020. We’ve seen quite a few releases during this time, and many have sold out their initial runs. Today, Nivada brings us a color addition to its production lineup with the new Depthmaster Orange. However, there’s something fun that’s along for the ride, and it’s the announcement of an orange 10-piece limited edition using NOS components.In just four short years, Nivada Grenchen and its CEO Guillaume Laidet have released a flurry of models under the resurrected brand. Indeed, Nivada now boasts five model lines with a host of models in each. It’s great to see such commitment, and the fact that the watches ar...
Thor's 2024 New Year's Watch Resolutions
Unlike Nacho's enviably controlled feelings on this subject, I am unsure what to do or wish for this year. With rocketing expenses and a year of some big swaps behind me, I feel like calming myself down purchase-wise. I started a consolidation challenge this past autumn, and it worked. I sold about seven watches and only bought two. But what does that mean for my 2024 resolutions?As I once read in a well-written article by fellow Fratello writer Lex, perhaps it's enough to enjoy the watches I write about without necessarily finding ways to buy them. I often have short- and long-term review subjects that give me temporary joy. But when I do buy something, one thing is for sure: it ain't going...
Pre-Owned Spotlight: A Selection Of Cartier Watches
Oh, Cartier, you keep seducing me with your Roman numerals, quirky case shapes, and beautiful bracelets. I’m already quite happy with my stainless steel Santos Galbee XL from 2006. But, of course, other designs from the French Maison also appeal to me. This edition of Pre-Owned Spotlight is the perfect opportunity to vent those feelings. That way, I might not actually have to buy another Cartier watch for myself anytime soon.Last year, I wrote a Pre-Owned Spotlight article full of Cartier CPCP watches. I know, I might be obsessed, but I can’t help it. Cartier’s designs are simply so irresistible. That last article, though, was full of very unattainable, very expensive watch...
Fratello Talks: Most Important Watches Of The Last 5 Years
Welcome to the year’s third episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho is joined by Morgan and RJ to discuss the most important watches of the last five years. We looked back and carefully selected nine pieces that we consider to be the most influential, impactful, and interesting horological creations of the last half-decade. Swiss watch brands present hundreds (if not thousands) of new watches each year. In an effort to innovate, iterate, and attract potential customers around the world, these brands are on an endless quest to expand their catalogs. However, not all new watches are created equal. These nine are the ones we consider to have had the greatest impact on the world of watches...
Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Perception 2.0
The idea of a relatively expensive Chinese-made watch is still quite foreign to most collectors. The landscape is changing, though, with more mature products coming from the massive country. One such rising star is Atelier Wen, a brand I had the chance to meet in late 2023. Even though its watches are essentially all-new, the brand has already revised its most popular model based on customer feedback. Today, we look at the new Perception 2.0.I’m as guilty as most when it comes to thinking about the idea of a Chinese-made watch. If one truly decides to research most Swiss-made watches, though, it might come as a surprise that components are often produced far from any Swiss canton. Brac...
The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
Who would have thought a quote from the current Albanian prime minister would be the header of a Fratello article? It was Edi Rama?(1964), who is not just a politician but also an artist and writer, who once said, Compromise in colors is gray. Too often, people make the safe choice of going for a black- or white-dialed watch. I get it. These two options are easy on the eye and easy to wear, but they’re also very bland and gray. It seems fear is part of the decision-making process. Chromophobia is an irrational but intense fear of colors that some people suffer from. An extremely mild case of that phobia, chronochromophobia, might be blocking your way to discover a lively world of watch...
Total Cost Of Ownership: Watch Collection Costs In The Long Run
Watch collecting is a costly hobby. We spend inordinate sums of money to acquire these objects of our shared affection. Maybe you have to save up for your next watch. Perhaps you allow yourself to splurge for significant life events. We all have our methods and justifications. However, the expenses do not stop after acquiring your time-keeping apparatusToday, I would like to explore the total cost of ownership of our beloved watches. To do so, I will take an imaginary four-watch collection that we plan to keep for life. Disclaimer: to keep it simple, I will use today's prices and completely ignore inflation.Our imaginary four-watch collectionLet's start with identifying a potential four-watc...
SIHH 2011 An Impression So Far...
The SIHH 2011, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie started last Sunday and all 19 exhibitors are flooding press, social media networks and watch forums with information about their new watches.Below, you’ll see an overview of what I think are the most interesting watches presented during the SIHH 2011 (till now). For your convenience, I categorized them per brand in alphabetical order.A. Lange & SoehneThe ‘other’ brand from Glashuette that wants to – and perhaps can –? measure themselves with the top of the bill haute horlogerie brands from Switzerland. Besides a few impressive new Saxonia timepieces and the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time timepiece, ...
SIHH 2014 Parmigiani Fleurier Metrographe
The SIHH 2014 in Geneva will start tomorrow and Fratellowatches will be there to bring you the latest news with our own photos and stories! We also recently opened our Press Release section on our website, so you also will be able to read the official press release information that we receive from brands. However, we will of course continue bring you our unique content as well like you are used to from us.Today we received the pre-SIHH 2014 news on the Parmigiani Fleurier Metro collection. Not too long ago we paid a visit to the Parmigiani HQ and production facilities and we were more then impressed. Our photo report of that visit can be found here. The Metro collection is their latest intro...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Meteorite Dial
One of the highlights of the first day at the SIHH for us is this Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar in stainless steel with a meteorite dial. We will soon get back to you with a hands-on article but we thought it would be nice to already show you some first photos.This watch will be available in gold as well, but we actually prefer the stainless steel model (reference Q1558421). This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar watch features a day, date, month and moon phases indication. Besides showing the time of course. Since all meteorite cuts show different patterns, you could say you will have a unique watch with this Master Calendar piece.Inside ticks JLC’s caliber 866 movement and consists...
SIHH 2015 The Ultra-Thin Piaget Altiplano Chronograph
Piaget, known for their ultra-thin watches (remember their Altiplano 9P from last year?) now introduced the Altiplano Chronograph. Only 8.24mm thick is the case of the Piaget Altiplano Chronograph that was presented to us today on the 25th Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva.The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph has a hand-wound movement that only measures 4,65mm (thickness). Available in 18 carat white gold and in pink gold. The white gold version has a diamond set bezel, 56 brilliant cut stones with a total weight of 1.8 carat. The diameter of this sleek designed chronograph is 41mm, making it very wearable. Piaget stressed that this Altiplano Chronograph would make a wonde...
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer
Omega’s Speedmaster Moonphase watches go back to 1985, when Omega did a limited run of 1300 Speedmaster Professional watches with a Moonphase and 700 of the German Teutonic case Speedmaster Moonphase watches, all with Lemania based caliber 866. Even today, a new version of this movement (caliber 1866) is being used in the Speedmaster Professional Moonphase watch. It was also being used in the Speedmaster Professional Moonphase in 44.25mm with the beautiful Aventurine dial.Today, on Speedy Tuesday, Omega shows us the new Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer that is based on the Speedmaster 9300 collection. However, for the Moonphase and calendar functionality, Omega uses...
Speedy Tuesday How I Learned to Love the Speedmaster
To many people, when they hear Fratello Watches, they think of the Omega Speedmaster. Robert-Jan's love for this iconic chronograph spawned a weekly column you're reading it on the subject and far more related articles for discussion. Of course, the detractors out there, everyone has them, state that we talk about these chronographs too frequently and that we're shameless fanboys. Then, the typical follow-on comment I hear is negativity about the fact that Omega really leans on the whole Moonwatch thing and that it's overplayed and long in the tooth. Well, to address the first statement, the members of this site are fans some newer than others, but more on that in a moment of this important ...
SIHH 2017 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton
This year, Roger Dubuis showed us a couple of new pieces. But one of the pieces that we liked best, is this?Excalibur Spider Pirelli. That’s right, Pirelli. A partnership with the sole sponsor of Formula 1. It isn’t just a ‘container’ partnership, but Roger Dubuis is actually using the rubber of F1 tyres. Used rubber, that they plucked from the circuit.?Roger Dubuis?Excalibur Spider PirelliNot sure whether some staff members of either Pirelli or Roger Dubuis will do the plucking of tyre parts themselves on the F1 circuit of Monaco, but fact is that they exactly seem to know which tyre they have been using for the straps. Each strap will have a code that matches the pr...
HYT H0 Gold and H2O -SIHH 2018 Novelties
HYT, like many independent watchmaking brands, signed up for SIHH and abandoned BaselWorld. Bert and I took an early ride to the SIHH exhibition on Thursday and a little over 9am we were already at the HYT booth. The novelties they presented to us were, as always, different, cool and bearing the typical HYT DNA. The brand offered two models: the HYT H0 Gold and H2O. Both very different watches in terms of pricing and design. While the H0 Gold is a simpler, classical if you like, approach to the HYT the H2O is a crazy looking haute horlogerie piece. Nonetheless, they are timepieces many would love to own including me. Let me elaborate.H0 GoldOut of the two new novelties the H0 Gold is the les...
Speedy Tuesday Video: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Vs. Omega Speedmaster "Ed White" 321
Last year, on a Tuesday, Omega introduced the Speedmaster “Ed White” powered by the caliber 321. Exactly one year later, Omega introduced its new Moonwatch Master Chronometer.We’ve been asked by several readers and viewers (of our Moonwatch Master Chronometer video), to have a closer look at the new Moonwatch with sapphire crystal and the Speedmaster “Ed White”. The price tag of the limited production Speedmaster “Ed White” is nearly twice that of the new Moonwatch Master Chronometer with sapphire crystal. How come? What are the differences? In this video, I try to explain what these differences are.Moonwatch Master Chronometer vs. Ed WhiteLet me sta...