French Watch Dating Profiles, Part II: Yema, Baltic, And More
And we’re back! French watches are very popular, apparently. After my original article featuring a spread of French watchmaking was published, the Fratelli clamored that I had overlooked some of the best. Well, we listened, and now I’m back with Part II, looking at the two brands people mentioned most. Also in this article are some young independent watchmakers who are making waves in the hand-crafted realms of horology. Without further ado, let’s see why Baltic and Yema are fan favorites and what watchmakers Theo Auffret and Cyril Brivet-Naudot bring to the table.French watchmaking is undergoing a second renaissance. It’s no wonder, considering France’s long hi...
Why A Seiko Tuna Wears So Well Even On Smaller Wrists
To some, this article might look like a tedious one full of numerical jibber-jabber. But it aims to be a write-up about comfort and, specifically, how well larger watches can wear, even if they “shouldn’t” fit your wrist. Consider, for instance, the Seiko “Tuna”.With a case diameter of roughly 50 millimeters, a real-deal monobloc Seiko Tuna seems way too large for most of us to wear. On the contrary! It does wear quite comfortably, even on smaller wrists. How come? It’s all about what is generally known as “lug-to-lug distance” and, in this case, the lack thereof. To explain and visualize differences in watch sizes, lug-to-lug, and spring-bar-t...
RJ's Summer Holiday Watches From Omega and Swatch
The holidays, finally! I am writing this article during my holidays to make it even more realistic. On my wrist is my holiday companion since 2019, the Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200M. Sea-Dweller 16600Watches I bring on my holidaysFor holidays in the past, I used to bring a Seamaster 300M, Sea-Dweller, Speedmaster Professional, or my Marinemaster 300. Most of the time, it was a combination of the above. But I decided to travel light this year because I don't want to leave a watch (or multiple watches) unattended in a cabin or hotel room these days.Vintage and modernThe Omega Seamaster PloProfAfter seeing one of my friends using the Seamaster PloProf 1200M as his daily companion for many years...
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Olympic Games Paris 2024
There’s a long shadow since the events of 2020 that have skewed the sense of passing time. With major sporting events such as the Euros 2020 and Tokyo Olympics being moved to 2021, we are already gearing up for 2024’s schedule. Returning to the regular four-year cycle means the delta between each ceremony temporarily condenses to three years for both events. It still renders me in disbelief that next year is the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, and therefore, the new release from Omega caught my colleagues and me completely off-guard. Nevertheless, we will discuss this surprising new 42mm stainless steel Omega Seamaster Diver 300M with Moonshine gold relief bezel here.Despite this ...
The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Sky And Sand
Temperatures are higher than ever this year. For some, that’s a good thing because it can never be too hot. For others, it’s a reason to increase the number of cooling plunges into the pool. Meanwhile, Nomos, in its turn, keeps launching new watches. This time it’s a summer duo of its Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date in Sky and Sand. Let’s see what the watch - that works equally well on the beach, in the office, or on a classy rooftop - looks like!Right now, I’m on my way to spend the summer in Spain with my wife and kids. We decided to go by car this year, so I’m writing this article from the southwest of France. The temperatures are pretty acceptable here, in the m...
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue
This introductory article about the square TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue will not mention Steve McQueen. It will, on the other hand, talk about the emblematic French Racing Blue that once graced famous race cars made by brands like Matra Simca, Ligier, and Alpine. The color and the cars are the source of inspiration for the latest Monaco, a limited edition of 1000 pieces in a titanium case. TAG Heuer and motorsport are closely connected. The Carrera might be commercially the brand's number one, the square Monaco that debuted in 1969, is the fan-favorite.The oddly shaped watchthe first square-cased water-resistant chronograph equipped with innovative Calibre 11got a big boost in ...
An Encounter With The Tudor Black Bay Burgundy
It’s hard to deny that if you want a great watch under $5K nowadays, Tudor is the first brand to turn to check your options. With the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, Tudor has two fan-favorite lines that offer great variety. With the introduction of the new Black Bay Master Chronometer and the Black Bay 54, the brand added two more great options that add to that variety. I was particularly interested in taking the new burgundy Black Bay Master Chronometer for a spin. With a METAS-certified movement, a slimmer profile, and an updated design, this is the future of the 41mm Black Bay. Could it also be my future new watch? A week on the wrist brought some much-needed insights.I love what Tudo...
Are Case Backs The Unsung Heroes Of Watch Design?
The watch hobby is one devoted to attention to the details. So it seemed remarkable to me that, until this article, I had never paid too much attention to an entire area of a watch’s design - the case back.The case back is an area where a multitude of watch brands have had their fun, expressed a flair for design, or perhaps even shared an inside joke. At the same time, others (I’m thinking the Hans Wilsdorf variety) have frequently said more with less.An appreciation for the case backThe case back of a watch started to land on my radar after the series of articles that my colleague Thomas wrote on the creation and execution of his VPC Type 37HW (you can read those features here)....
Introducing: The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport
Since the brand’s 2018 resurrection, Nivada Grenchen has produced some interesting, tasty, vintage-inspired watches. This month, it's time for yet another retro timepiece to make you feel warm and nostalgic. The source of inspiration for the latest release never left the prototype phase after Nivada produced an estimated 20 examples in the 1970s. But I’d bet the fact they never went into production had nothing to do with how they looked. On the contrary, the chronograph looked great back then. And, like Jane Fonda, it still does some 50 years later. The new 38mm Nivada Grenchen Chronosport is a reborn execution that comes in two variants - one with white and one with yellow lume....
Hands-On: The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1
Some brands excel at collaborations, elevating everyday watches to grail status, no matter how primary their starting point is. Casio sets a great example with its G-Shock range and the inherently cool canvas of the OG “Square.” Its shape is packed with potential, and the new Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 shows a real sense of eco-purpose.We've all seen the results of oceanic waste and its increasing threat to marine life. Together with the Surfrider Foundation, the G-5600SRF-1 exhibits a tangible monochrome solution to recycling. Despite its colorless first impression, this solar-powered Casio G-Shock Square has a unique sense of depth, even spiritually.The Surfrider FoundationThe i...
#TBT Roamer Stingray Chrono Diver
Would it surprise you if I said that the Roamer Stingray Chrono Diver is one of the best watches I've purchased over the last year? Well, it should because it shocked me and to this day, it still does. At first glance, this oddly designed seems to belong in the all-too-frequent category of questionable 1970's designs that haven't quite held up as well as their prior decade ancestors. But look again, or, better yet, allow me to shed some light on this sports chronograph and also to photograph it in a way that supports my opening statement. Folks, it's #TBT and in my semi-humble opinion, I think it will be a good one.Details abound on the Roamer Stingray Chrono DiverRoamer – the brandA q...
Keep Track Of The Value Of Your Watch Collection
I don’t have to introduce you to Chrono24, world’s largest on-line market place for watches. Some watch brands might hate it, but most consumers love it. Other brands see the value of Chrono24 and the massive attraction it gets from millions of users each month, and started a cooperation with them by offering their watches via a special landing page on Chrono24. Frederique Constant, Linde Werdelin and Porsche Design for example, offer their watches directly via the Chrono24 Brand Boutique.Tracking Your Watch CollectionBesides being a market place where you can buy and sell new and pre-owned watches, Chrono24 also offers a new feature called ‘Watch Collection’. This wi...
Hands-On With The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Watches
Throughout the haze of confusion that was Spring 2020, there were watch announcements aplenty. Yet many were buried by more pressing news items. The new Khaki Aviation Converter collection by Hamilton was unfortunately not given much exposure at the time of the unveiling. So, let us change that and provide this tactical Hamilton with a second chance. To its credit, Hamilton was precisely on time with its release schedule - just like the Swiss railway network. But, as with any battle, the first casualty is the plan.Now we are on the road to recovery, we can provide some breathing space for this collection of practical tool watches with a cracking design. The Converter part of the name refers ...
Hot Take: Omega Speedmaster Alinghi (Dark Side of the Moon)
A new Speedmaster release on a Speedy Tuesday! That makes us proud. Here’s the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Alinghi. Just like the Speedmaster Apollo 8 that we like so much, the Alinghi is based on the Dark Side of the Moon collection.While the Speedmaster Apollo 8 revolves around the Moon, with its caliber 1869 with moon surface pattern (applied by laser ablation), this new Speedmaster Alinghi is all about sailing. A strange combination, you say? On the surface, perhaps a watch from the Seamaster collection might have been a more obvious choice. But remember, the Alinghi boats are all about speed. A sailor on one of these boats has no intention of swimming or diving, so the 50 me...
Oris Momotaro Swiss Watch Meets Japanese Selvedge Denim
There is something intriguing about a watch brand’s collaboration with a clothing company. These two worlds are so close in some ways yet far away from each other in many others. This brings an exciting ambiance to the partnership. That’s what captivated me about Oris’s new collaboration with Japanese denim manufacturer Momotaro Jeans. Let’s check that piece out.I don’t even know why am I doing this piece and not Jorg. He has an eye for those things as much as I do, if not better. Granted, in the past, I have written about similar collaborations. Remember the Pinion Iron Heart watch? Or the Hamilton Schott project? Well, this one is equally cool in my book. One ...
Wrist Game or Crying Shame: Breitling Chronomat UTC
Happy Summer, faithful readers! It’s time for Wrist Game or Crying Shame and this week, we take a look at a flashy Breitling Chronomat UTC. Before we coordinate time universally…Last week, I tempted you with the Datejust in 18K. Despite a bracelet with a lot of stretch, 73% succumbed to the temptation of this less flashy wrist nugget.? Good for you, supporters, because you have style. This week, we travel back to another interesting period with a Breitling Chronomat UTC from 1998. Let’s see if this tickles your fancy.Let me take you on a sea cruiseIt’s hard to remember the exact year during the ’90s that I joined my family on a sea cruise. I guess it was around...
How Watches Work From Obvious To Obscure, It's Alloys Galore!
I’m not afraid to say it: steel is the most precious metal in the world. The fact that a new-in-box, 2021, olive-green Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 was recently hammered off for $376,000 proves my point. All jokes aside, steel is clearly the most commonly used building material for watches. And yet alternatives remain. What are they and why is it that steel stands pat atop the mountain of material options?We will start this edition of How Watches Work with good old-fashioned steel, before navigating from functional titanium to precious alloys (such as gold in many of its variations), and finish up with fashionable bronze - a metal with the smell of money…Another steel Pate...
The "Grail Watch": Does It Even Exist? Reflections of a Collector
“What is the meaning of life?” “Is there a god?” “When will I finally get the call from my AD about that steel sports model?” These are questions that (for the most part) have puzzled humans for centuries. For millennia - eons even! Some will spend a lifetime consulting gurus, traveling the world, or even analyzing every single subreddit under the sun to uncover the answers. Others, however, seem like they were effortlessly handed the knowledge. Like a salt shaker at the dinner table. More often than not, though, the latter folk have simply been fortunate enough to learn from the best teacher one could ask for - Experience.Learning by doing, learning by f...
#TBT Why Vintage Watches Need More Green Straps
I was surprised by how versatile green straps are. I realized this morning, completely by accident, how rich in tones and diverse in styles my green-strap collection is! It’s quite a special day today. For the first time in a long time - wait… the first time ever! - both our one-year-old and three-year-old kids won’t sleep at home. Yes, it’s a summer date night, finally! I pulled out a striking lemon shirt that my wife bought for me (and loves so much) to pair with my favorite olive-green knitted shorts. Dressed like a picture, I opened the safe and began my sacred daily ritual - selecting a watch.A lineup of green strapsQuite unexpectedly, I lined up four gold watche...
The Full-Lume Citizen Promaster Aqualand Depth Meter
The 1980s is an era that carries a lot of fond memories for me. I was born in 1977, so the ’80s made up a large part of my childhood. It’s also the decade that most people consider responsible for questionable style and design. In the watch universe, we have, for the most part, embraced the icons of the 1980s. I know I have. Even the quirky ones! One of the famous quirky watches of the decade is the Citizen Aqualand Depth Meter. Launched in 1985, it was the first watch to incorporate an electronic digital depth gauge. I always loved seeing these watches. Now, almost forty years later, Citizen has introduced two modern models based on that 1985 icon. I had a chance to try the Prom...