Strap Check: How To Distress A Watch Strap In 20 Minutes
Distressed “vintage” straps are cool, whether you fit them onto a dive watch, a sports watch, or, as in my case, a military field watch. The Serica 4512 is a broad-lugged, tough little nugget of a watch, and it comes on the delicate Bonklip bracelet. While flimsy in appearance, it is very comfortable and a retro-perfect fit for the watch. That said, I do love a nice strap on a field watch.Distressed or antiqued straps can be very hit or miss, so why not make your own? This can be as elaborate or as simple a process as you want, and if you do it right, you'll have a super cool bespoke result. The Serica 4512, with its no-nonsense tool approach and domed sapphire crystal, is alread...
Yema Meangraf Sous-Marine Y60 Hands-On Review
You would think that Yema would make a lot of noise when it’s about to release a diver with a 300m depth rating, a helium escape valve, and in-house movement for less than $1,000! Well, I would, I can tell you that. And yet, the new Meangraf Sous-Marine really snuck up on me.I have to say that the release of the Yema Meangraf Sous-Marine Y60 was a surprise. First of all, it was not distributed via the usual channels. It reached me initially as an offer tailored for Yema Privilege members. Luckily, I just happen to be one.First impressionSince developing a childhood fascination with everything branded Citro?n, I have considered French people special. Their genuine creativity was always ...
"Rusty" By Artisans De Genve Daytona Customization
It's no secret that I am not the biggest fan of watches or what the brand has come to represent. Still, what I didn't get was why anyone in their right mind would completely rebuild a brand-new to their own spec. Surely, such a thing is sacrilegious, no? Rusty by Artisans de Genve, however, is so good that it has the power to turn even the staunchest advocate of pure originality to “the dark side”.Artisans de Genve’s Shades of Blue project from 2021 made me desire a Daytona for the first time. It also opened my eyes to the world of customization. But we’re not talking gem-set bezels and bussed-down bracelets here. No, this was customization with a difference and a...
Why The Tudor Black Bay Pro Is Perfect For Young Watch Lovers
Here at Fratello, we are always happy to express our honest opinions on watches and watch brands, even though they can often differ. You probably read Lex's opinion on the Tudor Black Bay Pro yesterday. As he hinted at in the article, we didn't all agree. Though our thoughts on the watch itself align, we disagreed on the dilemma of its inspiration. And therein lies the beauty of watch enthusiasm. There are as many opinions as there are watches. Personally, the historical baggage that the Black Bay Pro carries doesn't bother me one bit. In fact, as a young collector with an appreciation for vintage watches, seeing a Freccione-inspired design make it back at an attainable price point is more t...
Straum Opphav Hands-On Review (2022)
I’m thoroughly sick of all the chatter we hear from start-up brands about how they are going to turn the established order on its head. How they are going to “disrupt” the luxury industry. Or even worse, how their product deserves attention for its “uniqueness” despite being composed of off-the-shelf parts from a forgotten corner of some fly-by-night factory in the arse-end of the Chinese badlands. Thankfully, for every 1,000 chancers, one good brand emerges. Say hello to Straum and its stunning debut model, the Opphav.Since the debut effort from Straum first popped up on my Instagram feed, I’ve grown quite close to the guys behind the project. Lasse and ?...
Fratello's Top 5 IWC Ingenieur References Ever
Another Friday, another Top 5! In this series, we take one classic watch and choose our five favorite references ever produced. Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things. Though there may be some overlap, it's not a question of which references are the most collectible or of the highest value on the market. The fifth pick is our Fratello favorite that considers the current market price and collectability, potentially making it a sleeper reference. As such, the last pick could be described as our wild card. This week, we’ll look at the IWC Ingenieur’s history. What came before Genta’s Ingenieur, an...
The Ultimate Guide To Microbrand GMT Watches: Part One
Hi, my name is Vincent, and I am weirdly obsessed with GMT watches. So much so, in fact, that I wanted to write a two-part guide on 16 GMTs from independent/microbrands. As you certainly noticed, GMTs are the thing, the must-see show in town, the latest and greatest trend. This is true for both larger Swiss and Japanese brands as well as the smaller, younger ones that you may or may not have heard of. There's a lot to choose from in terms of prices, styles, and even colors. There is a GMT for (almost) everyone and every budget. And this is because Seiko and Miyota released affordable yet capable GMT movements last year. My dream of owning a good, reasonably priced GMT has finally come true, ...
A Reader's Review: A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moon Phase
Since we here at Fratello love watches and collect them ourselves, we also like attending get-togethers (or GTGs) and discussing them. Doing so often leads to interesting discussions about watches and insights into why people chose certain ones. It’s like a live comments section but with drinks and bites (yes, you can also have those while participating in the comments section). For this article, Joey Spreeuwenberg submitted a review of his A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moon Phase ref. 192.029. Nothing less than a dream watch for him, this Lange 1 has also proven to be a GTG darling.A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moon Phase ref. 192.029A timepiece that originates from a classic conception...
High-End Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watches Deserve To Be Slim
Handling the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase Retrograde Date during Watches and Wonders 2023 got me thinking. I started pondering a guideline for customers who try to navigate the most erratic and emotional segment, the high-end integrated-bracelet sports watch. Prices of these watches have rapidly risen sky-high, but have their specifications done the same? When you pay more than $10K for a watch, you should get some measurable Haute Horlogerie value back, such as top-of-the-line finishing, an in-house movement, and also slimness. It's the last one that I will be focusing on today. The most measurable of factors allowed me to formulate a simple yet iron rule that applies to the h...
Six German Watches That Compete With Swiss Timepieces
When we think of watches, our minds are often first cast to Switzerland’s many manufacturers. But Germany makes fantastic timepieces, and perhaps it is worth giving Switzerland's larger northern neighbor a look too when on the hunt for a new watch. Let’s look at some German watches!Switzerland has a proud tradition of watchmaking that we often celebrate here on Fratello with tours of watch factories and features exploring the history of Swiss watch brands or the significance of new models that riff on the heritage of older references. But it is not just the Swiss who have heritage, quality, and value on offer when considering a new watch. Yes, Japan has many options covered for t...
Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced a clean, simple watch at a big annual show like this, and it was welcome. Today, we’ll take a closer look at this gem.For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the year of double denim, and I must say it was forgettable. I’ve grown to love this brand from a vintage standpoint, and I know it can produce some incredible watches. Still, the last decade has been fraught with overdone pieces, jeweled monstrosities, or (lately) square goofiness. Finally, Patek brings something beautiful in a way that only the esteemed watchmaker can manage. The Calatrava 6196P is a r...
Hands-On: One Of The Very Few LVKV-02 GMR 6 Watches
Less than a month ago, I found myself in a White Lotus-esque setting on an island in Thailand. I’ll spare you the details of the moment I stepped on a frog with my bare foot, but the scenery was incredible (it was my first time in Thailand). Still, I was there on a three-day mission! Louis Vuitton was announcing its collaboration with watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The two parties are producing a limited run of only five LVKV-02 GMR 6 watches, and they invited watch media to cover this special introduction.Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen in ThailandLouis Vuitton also invited many clients and utilized this stunning location to showcase the latest novelties. It was captivating to view t...
New: Fortis Flieger F-39 And F-41 With The Manufacure Werk 7
Fortis is a brand that is constantly on the move. In the last six months, we have seen new versions of the Novonaut N-42, a new model range with the Vagabond V-40 GMT, and even new movements. For its latest releases, Fortis introduces two new Flieger models with black cases in two sizes. But the biggest news is that all four watches are powered by the new Fortis manufacture Werk 7, which was developed with La Joux-Perret. I had a chance to gain some hands-on experience with all four variants.It probably comes as no surprise that the Novonaut N-42 is my favorite Fortis watch. I have spent quite a bit of time with the different stainless steel and titanium variants, and they never fail to impr...
Generation Digital
Two days ago, I turned 29 years old (to help you out, I was released in 1977). When I was a young kid, I remember getting a hand wound watch from my parents. But I never wore it. It had a small round case and a canvas strap. My first ‘real’ watch that I really wore was a Casio. It was in the time of the first G-Shocks. But these G-Shock models were too big for my little wrists (I was a skinny little kid, almost hard to believe now.. :-)). I also remember getting my first Casio as well. My parents bought it from me when we were on a holiday in the UK. I think they had it for sale at Dixons. Not sure though. I still have it, and it even runs perfectly. After that first Casio, I ha...
Basel News coming up
Although most novelties are already covered on the TimeZone Basel 2007 Forum, tomorrow????I will post an overview of – what I think – are the nicest new time pieces. And then, on to the SIHH 2007 starting tomorrow in Geneva.Universal Geneve with microrotor, 43mm model. The large watches aren’t over yet! ??...
The Bremont Watches
It wasn’t until they unveiled the Bremont Submarine 500 wrist watch on January 23rd 2009. Before that time, there was only slight coverage on this relatively new watch brand from the U.K. The brothers Nick and Giles English are responsible for this brand and its watches, which are being produced in Switzerland. All watches are hand-made and the production is limited. The brothers English are a huge fan of classic/historic aircrafts and this translates in to the heavily tested (in the field), certified chronometer watches. Their watches need to be on par with aviation standards. As you can see below, the Bremont logo carries the propeller of an aircraft.From what I understand, they put ...
Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe White Gold Abyss
I am enjoying a blue periodPablo Picasso, the iconic Spanish painter created a series of paintings between 1901 – 1904 referred as his, blue period. This epoch of the artist's life was reflected in sombre paintings employing predominantly blue or blue-green hues.Picasso was said to be suffering depression during this period and his choice of subject matter included images of beggars, prostitutes and drunks. Picasso was disturbed by the death of his friend, Carlos Casagemas.The pictures painted during the blue period were not popular at the time. Their cheerless depiction of dolent aspects of life, did not find favour with the public or buyers.Today, like many of Picasso pictures they a...
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional X-33 (318.90.45.79.01.001) 3rd Gen
It’s Speedy Tuesday! We’ve been waiting to publish an article on this new Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 reference?318.90.45.79.01.001, also called Skywalker. It was a surprise to us actually, that Omega was developing a 3rd Generation model of the Marswatch. We’ve been a big fan of the Speedmaster Pro X-33 and covered it many times. We actually did?a write-up on the Speedmaster X-33 1st Gen ref 3290.50 right before BaselWorld 2014 started where the new 3rd Gen Speedmaster X-33 was introduced.Omega developed?a new version of the discontinued Speedmaster Pro X33 (2nd Generation) together with the European Space Agency (ESA). According to the Omega press release, it was ...
Squale at Baselworld 2015
On the morning of Day Two at Baselworld, team member Blaise and I broke off from the rest of the Fratello crew and ventured into Hall 2 to meet with a brand that enjoys a true cult-like following: Squale. Both of us were interested to meet with the brand that produces fairly priced dive watches that have changed little design-wise from their heyday in the 1960's. The result of our meeting was a fun, casual discussion over doppio espressos and some great information about the brand's future.First, let's review a little history about Squale because it's impossible to ignore. I say this because the small team that Squale employs is so passionate about the lineage of the brand to the point that ...
Seiko Prospex LX SNR029J Divers Watch Hands-on review
Compared to a decade ago, Seiko (and Grand Seiko) achieved to be on the radar of many watch enthusiasts. And where other (Swiss and German) brands used to smirk a bit upon hearing the name Seiko, they now pay close attention.Just before Baselworld, we saw the new Seiko Prospex LX SNR029J under embargo. For those who are not familiar with this, it means that we could have the press release in advance, but not allowed to publish before a certain date and time. So we were aware of most novelties that were shown to use a few weeks later in Basel. My interest went out to the Grand Seiko models of course, but I was also very curious to see how the Seiko Prospex LX SNR029J would be like in the fles...