Dear Alpina And Gruen, Bring Back The Tecno
My friend’s grandpa used to say that an essential man’s collection requires three watches - a cheap quartz watch for chopping wood, a solid manual chronograph for everyday wear, and an elegant dress watch to take for dinner with your partner. Well, I have a tip for the last one - the Alpina Gruen Tecno.I would narrow in on the dress watch bit of grandpa’s advice. I would also add that in each watch collection, there should be at least one square or rectangular timepiece. I’m not sure if there is any scientific reasoning behind it, but no matter how elegant a dial is, it’s always dressier when it sits in a rectangular case. The round shape is fluid, never-ending,...
Cartier Tank Chinoise vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute
Welcome, ladies and gentlemen, to this week's Sunday Morning Showdown. I think you all know the score by now, but in case you are a newcomer, I'll briefly explain. Sunday Morning Showdown is a series in which two editors pick two watches that share a broad similarity (whether in style, function, or aesthetics) and battle it out for the win. It's a horological rap battle, a timekeeping dance-off, a clash of clocks. You get the idea. This week, it's Nacho versus Daan, Cartier versus Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tank versus Reverso, for a fight to see which of these two cubic contenders will take home the win.Now, it's no secret that Daan and I are both big fans of Cartier. He owns a beautiful Santos Galb...
Seiko's Presage Craftsmanship Series Gets Four New Models
Celebrating the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, the Laurel, Seiko has announced the launch of two pairs of limited-edition timepieces in the Presage Craftsmanship Series. Each features a dial made by a dedicated artisan or craft workshop through a traditional Japanese decorative technique - enamel, urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and shipp enamel. All four models boast a new case shape, a fresh dial aesthetic, and an in-house automatic movement. And they are now hitting the market.Celebrating 110 years of Seiko watchmakingThis quartet joins the lineup of Seiko limited editions to mark the milestone, which we have previously covered. Thus far, we’ve seen a Prospex diver, a ...
In-Depth Review: Horage Lensman 2 Exposure
Founded in 2007 and with the presentation of its first watch in 2009, Horage is not exactly new to the watch scene anymore. We’ve seen many brands (specifically those of the “micro” variety) enter the stage after that. Although not a big brand regarding production numbers, I wouldn’t describe Horage as a microbrand. There’s too much in-house development and production going on, and the solutions and products presented are too complex to suit a microbrand.Now, before?this article shifts towards discussing how and when a brand is considered a microbrand, I’d like to refer to our “Definition Of A Microbrand” article. With that out of the way, let&...
Two New Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Divers
Summer is just around the corner. That means that the season for brightly colored, water-resistant watches is here. And when it comes to colorful divers, no brand does them quite like Zodiac. Today, the brand introduces two new core colorways into its Super Sea Wolf Compression collection. Not that there weren’t already a handful of options to choose from, but with Zodiac’s ever-bold chromatic creations, being spoiled for choice is a privilege we all can enjoy. And with divers typically donning a mournful, monochromatic livery, it’s great to have a brand that opts for the opposite side of the spectrum.These colorful endeavors previously focused on the brand’s GMT mode...
Hands-On With The Yema Superman 500 Dato
Yema is on a roll! The French brand has released a steady stream of new watches over the past few months. It’s only been five weeks or so since I had the chance to check out the brand-new Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT, and since then, we have also seen the debut of the all-new lineup of Urban Field watches. But the brand does not sit still when it comes to expanding its current collections either. Yema’s Superman 500 line was introduced around this time last year and has expanded rapidly. Now Yema is releasing the Superman 500 with a date function as well as two new dial colors. Time to find out more about the Yema Superman 500 Dato.It’s quite impressive to see how many new...
The New Credor Goldfeather Is Glorious Forbidden Fruit
We can’t complain about Seiko and global availability these days. Every so often, though, the company does release something for its home market that we’d love to see everywhere. Today’s new Credor Goldfeather is one such example, and it’s a lovely one.I was scrolling on Instagram the other morning and stumbled on Anthony Kable’s @plus9time feed (if you like Japanese watches, you should follow). Anthony is a wonderful and helpful Seiko resource with an amazing page, but he uses his IG feed to show all sorts of new releases from Japanese brands. More often than not, he shares local LEs comprised of some funky color variation or case color. The other day, though, ...
The Victorious Seiko SPB317 And Four New Solar Chonographs
Say what you will, but the four new solar-powered Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 sec Solar Chronographs are no wallflowers. Controversial watches? That's probably too strong an expression, but they're definitely striking. The Seiko Prospex SPB317 is way more of a people pleaser. This particular Prospex turned out to be the most popular one of all the favorite sub-$1K timepieces that the Fratello team served you. The more traditional and straightforward looks of the SPB317 got 22% of your votes and came out victorious. But there aren’t just watches in this edition of Monday Morning Watch News. I also came across a robot from Chrome Calibre that will wind your watch for you.Last month, s...
Our Favorite Seiko/Grand Seiko Releases Of 2023 So Far
Considering the pace at which Seiko and Grand Seiko churn out new watches, a year-end article with highlights simply wouldn’t be enough. No, we have to do some intermediate evaluations just to stay up to date. It’s only June 5th, but the following have struck us as the best new Seiko and Grand Seiko releases of 2023.Of course, the Seiko and Grand Seiko catalogs are full of great watches. But if you want something from 2023, these would be our top five recommendations.Favorite Seiko releases of 2023 - Pick #1: Seiko 5 Sports 38mmIf you are an SKX aficionado like me, you may still have to get used to its successor in Seiko 5 guise. You may lament its less hardcore feature set and t...
Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot
At Fratello, we focus on watches, and 99.9% of the time, that means ones for the wrist. However, it’s interesting that the wristwatch is still in its relative infancy. It was the pocket watch that loomed large in prior centuries. Today, we’ll look at two gems from the twilight of the pocket watch era. These are Art Deco specimens from Longines and Tissot and are downright lovely.I can’t lie; I’ve wanted a decent pocket watch for a long time. I have no practical use for one (who does?!), but I admire them, and there’s no doubt that my desk would look better with one happily ticking away on its surface. Ornate porcelain-dial pieces or expensive models have never b...
New: The Atelier Holgur Fr?mand Edition Fumee Silver Tide
Atelier Holgur is a small Singapore-based brand with Nordic roots and a specific take on tough dive watches. Since the release of its debut model, the Fr?mand (meaning “frogman” in Danish), Atelier Holgur has tweaked its distinct design language. By introducing the Fr?mand Edition Fumee Silver Tide, the evolution is apparent.We love our tool watches at Fratello; there's no denying that fact. And there is something liberating about what small brands free of design committees and shareholders can offer. Atelier Holgur founders Matthew de Bakker and Asbj?rn Simonen-Andersen have a clear vision, and it shows from the Fr?mand’s DLC-treated bezel to the angular titanium architect...
F1 Star Charles Leclerc Invests In Chrono24
Formula 1’s rising star Charles Leclerc has proven himself a force to be reckoned with on the racetrack. But beyond the high-g world of Grand Prix, Leclerc harbors another passion - timepieces. This passion recently took a surprising turn with the announcement of his investment in Chrono24, the world’s leading online marketplace for luxury watches. As part of the same group as Chrono24, Fratello is excited to share this news.Chrono24 Founder Tim Stracke and F1 driver Charles LeclercCharles Leclerc and watchesWhile Leclerc isn’t famous for flaunting an extensive watch collection, his keen eye for timepieces hasn’t escaped us. Sharp F1 fans will recall him sporting some...
Hands-on with the new Alpina Seastrong Diver 300
I?would rather not disclose the percentage of vintage Alpinas in my watch collection. Yet the recently released update of the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 is the first modern Alpina I have the pleasure to review.Reaching new depths: the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300It was quite a big splash when Alpina threw in their re-designed diver into the crowded 2016 Basel pond. Less is more. Alpina took a step back and by that surprisingly found itself three steps ahead. Previous Alpina underwater production reminded me of infamous Breitling pieces. You kind of felt there was too much going on and weren't sure where the watch came from or where it was supposed to go. Those times are forgotten as Alpina div...
Nanotechnology Brings Seismic Potential to Watchmaking
Referring back to a recent post here, one can appreciate a world-first gasket free case mechanism, developed by a young independent brand Mauron Musy, is no mean feat.What brought us here today, however, is a fascinating comment left under that post. An idea about combining such innovation with advancements in nanotechnology that may benefit our craft in some truly seismic ways.I love our readers' inventiveness.Roger SmithThe said nanoscience pursuit for a watch mechanism is fittingly led by another independent watchmaker, one of the highest prestige in horology, no less. At the forefront of this is Dr Roger W Smith OBE, based on the Isle of Man, who is continuing Britain's long tradition to...
This Week in Watches: June 6, 2020 Surprising Edition
Welcome to This Week in Watches for June 6, 2020 the surprising edition. There were some unexpected releases this week so let’s take a look!Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer ManufactureIt’s always surprising to see a Frederique Constant in gold and I must say that this week’s Classic Worldtime Manufacture was a pleasant one. FC will make a maximum of 88 of these world timers with a polished 42mm rose gold case. The in-house FC-718 automatic toils away and allows the wearer to rotate an inner bezel via the crown. With its dark blue dial and striking details, I think this is a serious looker. And while FC might not be your first choice when you’re considering a meg...
Bert's Photo Book Part 4 Tourbillon watches
This topic perfectly follows up the previous one, which was all about the details. When talking about tourbillon watches, you’re generally referring to just one tiny detail. Albeit a very interesting one. While these watches are out of reach for many of us, they are popular regardless. The complication has the ability to reveal many beautiful details that watchmaking has to offer. So let’s have a look at some stunning tourbillon watches from my archives.For those of you who don't know about a tourbillon, or what it does, let's explain it in short. It all begins with gravity and the effect it has on a watch. Or, to be more precise, the effect it has on a watch’s beating hear...
Why I bought The Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich (2021)
On the first Tuesday of 2021, Omega unveiled a slew of new Speedmaster Moonwatch references. Among which were the surprising proprietary Sedna (rose) gold and Canopus (white) gold models. But to its core, Omega kept things straightforward with the stainless steel Moonwatch. In the steel guise were four references with either Hesalite or sapphire crystal on the front glass. Each choice of crystal also had the option of a steel bracelet or strap. But only one reference ended up on my wish list. And it was compelling enough for me to sell my beloved First Omega in Space to own it. I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer reference 310.30.42.50....
Watch Passion Explained: The Narrating Self Makes Us This Way
As watch admirers and collectors, we can get pretty intense at times. We devote countless hours to researching and hunting watches. We pour irresponsible percentages of our hard-earned cash into these objects. And, at times, we can get a little hot-headed over it all. Today, I want to take a slightly psychological approach to watch collecting. Let's explore what kinds of explanations for our obsession we can find in the science of the mind. I will focus particularly on a theory about why we can get a bit tense in comment sections and social media - the theory of the narrating self.As is the case for many people in the watch industry, this was my “backup career”, so to speak. I st...
The Original Bvlgari Aluminium Is A $1000 Sports Watch Bargain
I have one item that means more to me than any of my wrist-buddies, and that is my Bvlgari wedding ring in white gold. My Italian wife has a strong influence on me, and I was well aware of Bvlgari as a part of the Italian national identity. Then the Octo Finissimo hit the scene, and everything changed. But do you remember the original Bvlgari Aluminium, the Diagono?Let's be fair. When you consider the rocket-like ascent of Bvlgari as a watchmaker, until recent years, it was still a jewelry brand. Yes, Bvlgari happened to have a line of watches. For many younger enthusiasts, though, they just didn't cut it. But unlike some Rollie-flexing Instagrammers out there, some of us recognized the swee...
New Audemars Piguet Ceramic Royal Oak With Rainbow Dial
In commemoration of the Royal Oak's golden jubilee, Audemars Piguet presented a slew of 50th-anniversary novelties earlier this year. One of them was an updated version of the 34mm sell-out model in black ceramic that debuted only last year. As the fanfare ensues, the premier Swiss watchmaker reveals a new variant of this highly coveted timepiece. Audemars Piguet has created a one-of-a-kind iridescent dial for the latest 34mm black ceramic Royal Oak Selfwinding. This seductive rendition is limited to 300 pieces and developed in collaboration with famed Italian jeweler Carolina Bucci.Bucci is a high-profile name in her own right. She is also the woman who started the Frosted Gold series in 20...