The Best Summer Watches Nacho's Picks
Summer is officially here! June 21st - the summer solstice - was not only the longest day of the year but also marked the official start of the season. Naturally, summer watches become top of mind around this time of year, but the selection of those available is overwhelming. To help you select the best summer companion, the members of the Fratello editorial team are sharing their top picks.Are you looking for a new summer watch? Look no further; we’ve got you covered. You’ve already seen Jorg, Thomas, and Daan’s picks, many of which would have easily made my list. To avoid overlap, I’ve opted for three slightly different options. My picks also follow an incremental p...
Back To Basics: Watch Case Materials Explained
I am happy to present a new edition of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our beautiful watch hobby. This time, we will examine some of the most common materials used to make watch cases. Why would you pick a titanium watch over a stainless steel one? What is the difference between 316L and 904L stainless steel? What are the pros and cons of ceramics? How do gold watches differ between brands?In this article, I will try to answer those questions and several more. I will try to keep it as simple and easy to digest as possible, but we may get a tiny bit technical here and there. Without further ado, let's get stuck in!Stainless steel, the most common watch case materialsStainless...
Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs. King Seiko SJE089
It’s Sunday morning, so grab a cup of coffee, and prepare for a showdown rooted in history. Most of you will know the story of Grand Seiko and King Seiko, which goes back over six decades. We decided to put two modern watches from them up against each other. Jorg picked the Grand Seiko SBGW305, while Robert-Jan chose the King Seiko SJE089. Both writers will make their cases, but in the end, you get to vote for the winner of this battle between Grand and King Seiko.The story of Grand Seiko and King Seiko dates back to the early 1960s. Back then, Suwa Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Daini Seikosha (King Seiko) were on a quest to develop highly accurate movements. Unlike many stories would hav...
Thomas Prescher: The Ultimate Goal Is To Create Excitement!
Thomas Prescher did create excitement amongst watch collectors, he created a mechanical timepiece that is absolutely unique. A triple-axis tourbillon movement in a wrist watch. The Triple Axis Tourbillon Regulator, as the watch is being named, is again one of these great inventions of Thomas Prescher, since he started working for himself in 2002 and joined the AHCI in 2003.Before 2002, Thomas Prescher followed an appreniceship at IWC, followed by a great carreer at Audemars Piguet where he earned his Master Watchmaker certificate. Just before Thomas Prescher opened his own atelier, he was hired as a Production Manager for another big name in Swiss horology, Blancpain.Tourbillons seem to be t...
Omega Speedmaster Mark II 1969 2014 Review
Omega Speedmaster Mark II – 45 Year After Its IntroductionAfter the Omega Speedmaster Professional won the race to the Moon in 1969, Omega thought it was time to come up with a watch that perhaps was a bit more up-to-date and ready for the 1970s. Design wise that is, as the watch should be able to withstand the same abuse as the Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’ could handle. Somewhere in 1969 Omega introduced the Speedmaster Mark II. Actually, a Speedmaster Professional Mark II. The ‘Mark’ in its name stands for a new or revised/improved version, for the non-native English readers. It is like calling it a 2.0 version these days.The Speedmaster Mark II came w...
The Vintage Market Summer 2015 The Chronographs
Today's article marks the first of what we hope will become a periodic series. As the resident vintage writer (#TBT) for Fratello Watches, I often muse to my teammates about things I'm seeing in the marketplace. On one particular day, I started chatting with Robert-Jan and brought up the idea of publishing a state of the market article on at least some part of the vintage world; a taste of what I've been seeing along with some thoughts on why and perhaps some ideas for our readers to locate some potential pieces of interest. As per the norm, Robert-Jan gave me the green light to prognosticate away and create something that you, the reader, will hopefully enjoy.Before I start down the path of...
Hands-on with Yema Superman Heritage Bronze
The bronze re-edition watch that deserves a gold medal. No kidding. A classy diver with a serious refresh. If you want to argue the term iconic watch when referring to the Yema Superman Heritage Bronze, this bronze novelty definitely helps to build this status for decades to come.A quick shot taken with an iPhone by the Mediterranean SeaWho cares about the date?One example for all. Usually, you see vintage inspired re-editions being ruined with an effort to fit the date window into the dial. Wouldn't it be French elegance if they decided to do the opposite? The original reference Yema Superman 53.00.16 carried a date aperture at 3, as did the 2018 re-edition in steel, but don't look for it i...
Wrist Game or Crying Shame: Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks
It’s time for Wrist Game or Crying Shame, the weekly series that lets you stop or start your chronograph. This week, we’ll discuss a unique blip on the Breitling radar with the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks. But first…Last week, I did my best to take you back to the era of Boyz II Men with a look at the TAG Heuer Link chronograph. Sadly, it was the end of the road for this ornate sports watch as it fell to a crushing 68% crying shame loss. Let’s see if today’s watch can bring some of that Motown Philly magic because our Breitling Superocean Chronoworks happens to sit in a showcase near the City of Brotherly Love.Pricey cars and suchI’m not sure why high-...
Jorg's Top Five Iconic Watch Case Designs Of All Time
Ever since getting into the world of watches, I have always loved the discussions about watch design. The recurring topic is often progression. The arguments are as much about the lack thereof as they are about the ongoing quest for finding that new instant classic.? Creating something genuinely new that meets with immediate acceptance seems to be the hardest thing there is. Especially when it comes to case design. But the excitement of seeing something novel is excellent.The thing that has intrigued me most over the years is the shape of a watch case. It is often the most crucial element for an immediate “yes” or “no”. And a well-designed case can make a design becom...
Hands-On With The New Breitling Chronomat B01 42 "Frecce Tricolori"
The new Chronomat trims the case diameter from 44mm to 42mm and brings back the unique Rouleaux bracelet. Those are the headlines, but as I have found, this new chunk of steel is filled with hidden details.I was a little shocked when my Chronomat turned up at my door in the middle of May. I placed an order for the limited edition Frecce Tricolori a day after the launch in April but fully expected an email informing me that I had missed out on securing one of the, justifiably limited, 250 pieces. Not only was I allocated an FT, but it was also delivered in less than a month.My own Frecce TricoloriMy eagerness to lay eyes on my guilty acquisition may have overcome my motor skills. I ripped the...
The Eberhard Fiat Watch: The King Of "Boring" (2021)
One of the few watches that I feel really guilty about not wearing often enough is the Eberhard Fiat. Just a few hours after strapping it on the wrist, I am reminded exactly why I bought it in the first place. I have a publishing plan for #TBT watches for three months ahead. That means I always have 10 to 12 watches shortlisted and lined up for specific dates. Usually, that is. Sometimes I break the pattern with a creative desire to write about a watch I spontaneously choose from the safe. This choice is sometimes so visceral that it brings an uncontrollable flow of ideas I want to share. That's what happened today with the Eberhard Fiat.An unexpected choice: the Eberhard FiatYesterday I wor...
Introducing The Habring2 Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1
Collaborations happen often, quite possibly too often. Crucial for a good collaboration is two brands that are a good fit. Today Monochrome and Habring2 introduce the Habring2 Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1. It is a perfect example of two brands that are a great match.? As a result, the watch tells a great story of the shared love for independent watchmaking. Time to take a closer look at Monochrome’s first collaboration timepiece, the Habring2 x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1.Ever since the start of Monochrome in 2006, founder Frank Geelen and his team have always expressed a great passion for independent watchmaking. Frank and I had several animated conversations, when I fi...
What Watch RJ Would Pick For $1,500
This idea started at the coffee corner in our (former) office in The Hague with some of the other editors. You'll get $1,500 from your boss to go out and buy a watch, what would you pick?And it doesn't need to be a brand-new watch, it is also allowed to buy something pre-owned or even vintage. But I added a rule to this little game, inspired by a recent podcast by Mike and Balazs. You can't sell it and you need to wear it at least two days per week for the rest of your life. It doesn't need to be the only watch to have, but one that will last basically.What is out there for $1,500?This is not an article showing you what's out there for $1,500, because there's a lot on the market that ticks t...
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300: Beyond The Edge (2021)
At Watches and Wonder 2021, we saw several beautiful new watches launched by many different brands. Some were expected, and some were a bit of a curveball and caught us by surprise, but in a good way! At the digital event, TAG Heuer launched its new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection. The release marked a new generation of the famous model, with a refreshed look that blended a bold-yet-elegant contemporary look with a functional and versatile form.After the launch’s success and the subsequent availability of the watches from boutiques and dealers, TAG Heuer has revealed an unprecedented look behind the scenes of the fascinating advertising campaign that accompanied the launch. So si...
The Raketa Russian Code Is An Enigma Inside A Brain Melting Riddle
When I first put this watch on my wrist, I thought something misfired inside my brain. Of course, I tried to hide my confusion from my seasoned watch pro colleagues at Fratello HQ, but that lasted about three seconds. I think I shouted out loud, what the hell is going on? I saw the seconds hand moving counterclockwise, the 12 is a 0, and although the 6 is in its usual spot, the 3 and the 9 had swapped places. Everything is turned around! At first glance, the Raketa Russian Code is an enigma squirreled inside a brain-melting riddle. How to read time? Could I crack the code?I thought I got a Polar Watch out of the colorful Raketa box with Cyrillic letters and emblems recalling the former Sovie...
Starting A Watch Collection With $5,000: Lex's Top 3 Picks
To my great surprise, this was an easy article to write! I tried to stay out of the Starting a watch collection with $5,000 carousel for as long as I could because I thought I had no idea what to do with $5K. Watch-wise, I mean. I know I want a new road bike, and a nice, long tropical vacation would be nice too. But I seriously didn't think I could come up with three watches. And yet, I did in a very short period of time. I want a Spring Drive-powered Grand Seiko to keep my quartz model company. After seeing the sea green and blue Speedmaster MoonSwatch Mission on Earth in the metal - sorry, Bioceramic - I think it would complement my denim wardrobe perfectly. And the fashion angle led me to...
Porsche Design Configurator Customize Your Own Chronograph
Porsche Design was started in 1972 by F.A. Porsche, the accomplished designer behind the iconic ’60s 911. The company is now completely separate from Porsche cars, but let's face it, we know that close family ties are still there. This is no more visible than in today's sharp range of sports watches, Teutonic in design and nothing but function-forward. From the tempting DLC-vintage versions made by IWC to today's techy sports references, Porsche Design timepieces have that a tech-tool image. But did you know that Porsche Design lets you customize its your own chronograph with its new Configurator?Porsche Design plays in the same league of instrument-focused watches as Sinn and also IWC...
Fortis Fratello: Dario Interviews Rob At The Grenchen HQ (Video)
Just recently, Fratello had cause to visit our good friends at Fortis at their Grenchen headquarters. Standing on the recently-renamed John Harwood Street, in honor of the man who invented the automatic watch and brought it to market with the help of Fortis, the brand’s historic home is undergoing a complete overhaul, ready for the next phase of Fortis’s journey under the leadership of visionary Jupp Philippe.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIet-tB3qjs&t=463sDario Buhler of Fortis managed to find a quiet enough corner of the HQ to sit down with Rob of Fratello for an expansive chat on all things watches. The boys discuss how Rob came into the industry, and what he predicts f...
Nivada Grenchen Datomaster Mechanical Hands-On
Many years ago, when the vintage market was not what it is today, a watch came to my attention. A friend of mine offered it to me for a fair price. It had a smaller case, two sub-dials, and a strange date-window placement at 12 o'clock. The watch was a vintage Nivada Datomaster, a small hand-wound chronograph with a light gray dial, white sub-dials, and pump pushers. These days, Nivada is not what it used to be. Neither is the new Datomaster Mechanical. Yet, it is still a lovely timepiece that we'll take a closer look at now.? ??You are right if you think you have already seen a new Datomaster. The brand has another one in the collection. However, that one has a meca-quartz movement, a date ...
The Naked Watchmaker X Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar
I will be the first to admit to a deep fascination and respect for the work of Peter Speake and Daniela Marin of The Naked Watchmaker. While having written more than 500 stories about watches, my micro-mechanical watchmaking skills are self-taught but with help from Daniela and Peter’s website. With The Naked Watchmaker releasing its first watch collaboration, is there a deeper meaning behind it?For those of you that do not know, The Naked Watchmaker website is a deeply scholastic and refreshingly different approach to our world of wrist wonders. Seeing step-by-step deconstructions of famous movements has taught me a lot, and the realism in the site’s coverage is more fascinating...