The New Fortis Stratoliner: The First Watch Pre-Tested in Space?
As watch enthusiasts, we get excited about new watch releases. It's inevitable, and we can't help it. It's like telling sugar not to be sweet - it's just not going to happen. Some releases get us a little more hot under the collar than others, especially when we've been biting our tongue for months, knowing what was coming. It's even more difficult when you've been involved in the testing and development process, as is the case with the new Fortis Stratoliner.Previously, you may have read some of our articles here on Fratello in which Rob and I discussed a top-secret mission that took us 150km north of the Arctic Circle. Think temperatures of -17C and the like - brutal, but beautiful. Fortis...
Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT PC-7 TEAM Edition
Announced with much fanfare, Fortis treated us to a revitalized series of pilot-focused tool watches in the middle of 2020. Although the brand has decades of airborne credentials to its name, the idea of a wholly rehauled Fortis Flieger line felt like an exciting and encouraging step for the Swiss proponent of purpose-led timekeepers. First was the Bicompax, followed by the Automatic, and finishing with the Triple-GMT. The brand sought to unapologetically return to its “tooltastic” origins, and the Flieger was the way it was going to make it happen. With sword hands, unmissable brick-like indices coined “Brixtrack,” suppressed finishes throughout, and an indicator at ...
What If You Like A Watch From A Brand That You Don't?
What if you like a watch but you dislike the brand that made it? There’s a light-hearted question to ponder this Saturday morning. We all have watch brands that are close to our hearts as well as some that are really not. We know it doesn't matter in the big picture, but some brands tend to rub us the wrong way. That, however, does not keep them from releasing an awesome watch now and then. It may be so awesome, in fact, that has you questioning your beliefs.Have you ever bought a watch from a brand that you really do not like? Would you even consider it? Tribalism and the narrating selfI have written an article on how the narrating self is involved in how we behave...
The Top 5 Microbrand Watches Under $1000
While microbrands offer tremendous value for $500 or less, things become more interesting if we stretch the budget to $1,000. The microbrand sweet spot seems to be between $500 and $1,000 for most brands I know of. In this price range, we get better movements and finishing, more originality, and even a few surprises. I could honestly build this list around just one brand, but that would be too easy. Instead, we're going to take a look at models from various brands that belong to different genres. We’ll examine everyday watches, GMTs, divers, and anything I've gotten my hands on in the past two years that offers a little something extra. Making this kind of list is also a good exercise ...
Always Buy The Bracelet: Hunting One For My IWC Mark XV
This IWC bracelet has completely transformed the wearing experience of my “go anywhere, do anything” timepiece, the Mark XV. RJ often advises always getting the factory bracelet on a watch whenever possible. No truer words have been spoken, it seems, as my journey in trying to acquire a bracelet for my IWC Mark XV finally paid off. It was a search that lasted well over a year.A watch with perfect dimensions for meThe IWC Mark XV ref. IW325301 has perfect dimensions for me. It has a 38mm case diameter, a (just over) 9mm thickness (almost 11 if you include the crystal), and a 47mm lug-to-lug. The heavily modified ETA 2892 caliber inside provides reliability, durability, and easy se...
New: The Fortis AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer
For decades, Fortis has enjoyed a well-earned reputation as a maker of space-ready watches. Until now, most of those watches have traveled to the International Space Station. Today’s Fortis AMADEE-24, however, was built for Mars. More specifically, it was made for a simulation mission that recently occurred in Armenia.Watch enough TV, and it’s easy to think that travel to Mars is right around the corner. However, there’s still plenty to do before anyone sets foot on the Red Planet. Some of the activities underway include simulations of a Mars-like environment. Recently, the Austrian Space Forum (OeWF) partnered with the Armenian Aerospace Agency on a four-week simulation mi...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak In Yellow Gold And "Crme Br?lee"
Why have just one good thing if you can have two? The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph shows the brand's famous Grande Tapisserie pattern?and a smoky effect. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding doesn't have a three-dimensional effect on the dial but, instead, pairs the graduated effect with a case of hammered gold. In Le Brassus, AP’s hometown in the Swiss Jura Mountains’ desolate Vallee de Joux, “too much of a good thing” doesn’t exist - the harsh winters must have taught them that. I took a bite of both luxury sports watches recently, and it left me with the taste of crme br?lee in my mouth, among other things.Both the Roy...
The Best Watches Under $2,500: Jorg's Picks
Picking the best watches under $2,500 is tough. There are so many different options. Next to the world of microbrands, the world of bigger brands also opens up nicely with $2,500 to spend. This made the search for possible options quite extensive. You could even call it a mission because the goal of this list was to pick a small number of watches that I would genuinely love to own. In the end, I found a selection of watches that I would love to spend or have spent my money on. Here are my favorites under $2,500.Thomas stated in his article that a budget of “$2,500 should buy you a watch that doesn’t feel compromised.” I agree with his statement wholeheartedly. That money sh...
AP attacks plastic
A bit cryptic perhaps, but that’s what Audemars Piguet does…???? The company has taken action against all the plastic ‘fashion’ copies of their watches. The plastic imitations (mostly , to be honest I haven’t seen an AP copy yet) are very populair here in Europe. Besides the violation of their copyright on design, I wouldn’t bother too much about these cheap ‘see-through’ plastic copies. It doesn’t reflect the real thing and it also doesn’t try to be the real thing. A different view than the imitations made in the Asian regions, which can be sold as an authentic watch (including box and papers!).I wouldn’t spend too much money...
Royal Oak Confusion More 15202 'Jumbo' versus 15300
I though that our previous articles (part 1 and part 2) about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 (Jumbo) versus 15300 were quite explanatory, but it seems that I might be wrong about that. It also might have to do with the fact that AP recently introduced the new version of the 15202 (click here) with some minor changes in the design that revert to the original 5402 of the 1970s.Furthermore, a successor for the 15300 has been announced already as well, same goes for the Royal Oak Chronograph edition (26300 becomes 26320). In these cases, the case diameter grew from 39mm to 41mm and the wording on the dial has been blown up as well. Not sure whether this is something I like.Anyway, let’...
Speedy Tuesday Interview With Chuck Maddox
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#TBT Enicar Sherpa Graph "Jim Clark"
I can be a real pest. Just this past March, during Baselworld 2015, Fratello team members Gerard, Blaise and I were sitting around in our rented accommodation, drinking canned German beer, and talking about the new watches we'd seen earlier in the day. When you get a few vintage watch geeks together, such as in this instance, the conversation ultimately takes a turn towards pieces from yesteryear. We passed around the older watches that we had packd for the occasion, as none of us really like to wear new watches to the show and risk offending any one brand, and started talking about watches on our respective wish lists. Well, I mentioned a few on my list and threw out the name, Enicar Sherpa...
ToW Gibralfaro. A Power Reserve Watch for rally drivers and vintage lovers
The brand ToW Time of Watches was established in Mlaga, Spain at the beginning of 2015, selling their own designed watches and straps to the Spanish market. Now, they have decided to enter in the micro brand's watches market, oriented to mechanical watch enthusiasts.The ToW Gibralfaro has a racing vintage style inspired on rallying, receiving its name commemorating their local Gibralfaro rally, and the iconic chronographs of the 70s/80s. Inspiration that arose in details like the power reserve indicator, or the hands inspired in the classic rally cars dashboards. The mainly brushed modular case, custom made in 3 pieces, and the custom applied indices mixing brushed and polished surfaces com...
Hublot Big Bang Rainbow King Gold Rainbow Horlogerie
The Hublot Big Bang Rainbow King Gold is probably as bold of a watch as it gets.I mean let's be neutral as much as possible here and look at the facts. Hublot is a very divisive brand. On the one hand, their marketing strategy is something I'm pretty sure professors will teach at universities soon. They know how to make a product that their target audience literary lusts after. Not to mention that not every model line is loud and in-your-face, perhaps not as much as the Big Bang watches. On the other hand, this aforementioned target audience is something that many watch fans (not Hublot fans, there's a significant difference) do not necessarily mingle with. I mean I hardly can imagine someon...
#TBT Seiko Sportsmatic 427980
Today on #TBT we’ll look at the Seiko Sportsmatic 427980. While it’s not a landmark piece in any way, it represents an interesting transition in the brand’s history.The Seiko Sportsmatic 427980 isn’t a particularly famous or collectible watch. It lacks a nickname or an association with someone or something famous. Instead, I’d classify it as a highly attractive vintage watch with some light sporting intent. And it just happens to take up a small corner in Seiko history.The Sportsmatic 427980 – A Transitional WatchThe Sportsmatic 427980 that sits before you was produced in 1964. That’s an interesting year in Seiko annals primarily because it marked a ...
Now Is The Time To Save Long Forgotten Watches
Collectors and watchmakers dig deep on their benches to repair some of the harder-to-service watches.I try not to buy broken watches. If the option is there, I'd rather wait for a particular model in decent condition, preferably from a reliable source. As we all know, some watches are hard to find, so here and there we just have to take the risk. I usually do it with pieces that I've never seen pop-up before. If I buy a watch that needs attention, I don't like to leave the repair unattended and start sourcing parts immediately after purchase. This way I successfully manage to get all my “questionable pieces back into shape.Sourcing watches during COVID-19This same type of risk aversion...
16 Grails in the Vintage Heuer World
Our friend Jeff Stein from OnTheDash shows his grails from Heuer. An amazing article with an overview of his Heuers with beautiful close-up pictures and descriptions.I confess I don’t know that much about Heuer. There are other Fratelli that have more knowledge about these. There are also websites like Jeff Stein’s OnTheDash. His website is considered to be the authority on the subject. I’ve had the pleasure to meet Jeff for the first time not too long ago in Switzerland, but we have known each other for much longer as we shared an old friend in common.Skipperrera. Image by Analog Shift.Vintage Heuer GrailsJeff Stein also makes some recommendations on alternatives to each o...
Hands-On Fortis Official Cosmonauts AMADEE-18 Review
I must confess, it has been a while since I last wore a Fortis watch. Not that I don’t want to, but we have quite a large team of editors these days, and others jumped on Fortis a bit faster. After having the Fortis Official Cosmonauts AMADEE-18 on my wrist for a few days, I’m going to make sure I’m at the front of the queue next time…I am positively surprised by the Fortis Official Cosmonauts AMADEE-18 reference 638.18.91. The first thing to notice is how good this watch looks on the wrist. And that specifications can be so deceiving. According to the spec sheet, the watch measures 44mm in diameter and has a lug-to-lug size of 53mm. Now, before you sigh and stop read...
New Watch Release: 17.09 MING Massena LAB Limited Edition
We can never get enough MING around here on Fratello and we are pleased to announce another new piece from the scorching hot brand. This time, there’s a twist, though, with the first collaboration. Let’s check out the new 17.09 MING Massena LAB Limited Edition.Collaborations are all the rage days and people love to see how two forces come together to create something appreciably different. With the new 17.09 MING Massena LAB Limited Edition, we get that in not just one, but two new pieces. To be clear, we expected something else from MING on the exiting 17.09, but we didn’t expect this. As we’ll see, the result is something in keeping with the MING design ethos (clean...
Zenith's Chronomaster Sport Gets The Gold Treatment (2021)
This year, Zenith dropped a modern update to the legendary El Primero Chronograph: the Chronomaster Sport. With such an iconic watch receiving an update, there was naturally a lot of coverage, and it was quite a marmite design. On the one hand, people loved the classic A338 blueprint brought in the modern age with a ceramic bezel and up-to-date aesthetic. However, the other hand had people less than enthralled that Zenith dared to touch the timeless A386. Some people felt it looked a particular little like a chronograph from a neighboring Swiss brandThe Chronomaster Sport: now in rose gold!Either way, the new Chronomaster Sport was sportier and cleaner, featuring updated aesthetics and impro...