This Week in Watches: May 23, 2020 Essential Edition
Welcome back to This Week in Watches for May 23, 2020: the essential edition. Many of our readers either have a long weekend due to Memorial Day or are coming off of a bridge day from last week. We won’t make you think too hard during your time off with these three-handers.Timex Milano XLIf we talk?essential, three-hands, a bracelet, a date function, 50 meters of water resistance and quartz define our needs. But why not throw in a little retro style to create an inexpensive looker? Well, that’s precisely what Timex has done with its new Milano XL collection. The nice thing is that “XL” only means 38mm on this 1970s-inspired c-cased watch. It’s available in three...
NOMOS Glashutte Ace Jewelers Tangente 38 Amsterdam Limited Edition Watch
The release of the NOMOS Glashutte Ace Jewelers Tangente 38 Amsterdam Limited Edition Watch marks the fourth time the Saxon manufacture has collaborated with Amsterdam’s most visible and active retailer. And what can I say? They’ve hit the mark again.I was involved with the first NOMOS/Ace limited edition way back in 2017. Back then, we celebrated 100 years of De Stijl with a 38mm Orion. I still wear mine (16/100) with pride. In fact, I was so proud of that project I didn’t think I would ever be able to distance myself from it enough to objectively analyze any future editions in the Ace NOMOS line.But here we are. It seems time and distance are great for perspective. In all...
Flying On Auto With The Slimmed-Down IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43
The original IWC Big Pilot's Watch is a classic. But it's also an XL heavyweight that you're constantly aware of. It practically takes a giant to wear the 46.2mm original inconspicuously. The new smaller version of the BP comes in a more practical size L. And, although I don't want to give it all away already, flying on auto with the slimmed-down IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is possible. You're only aware of the watch when you want to be and that is a massive upgrade.The new steel Big Pilot’s Watch 43 comes with either a traditional black dial or a more fashionable and contemporary blue variant. The big box we received at Fratello HQ contained the blue-dialed version and came with a ...
Lebois & Co Invites Fans To Design Its Latest Chronograph (2021)
Catering to all tastes is nearly impossible, says Tom van Wijlick, CEO of Lebois & Co. And that’s something I can attest to as well, looking back on some of the collaborations we did ourselves with brands.Some people will love it. Others? Well, not so much. Yet the Dutch-owned Swiss Lebois & Co brand is now asking their fans to help decide on the looks of its latest model.A unique new heritage chronographLebois & Co is not the first watch brand looking for input from its (future) clients. Similar projects have been run in the past, mainly by smaller, independent brands. Yet I also remember TAG Heuer asking collectors for input back in 2017 with regards to the Autavia. In my...
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Vs. Audemars Piguet Offshore: The Orange Olympics
In our Sunday Morning Showdown, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And don’t forget to let us know which watches you’d like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. We’ll try and feature as many of our readers’ choices as we can. With summer on the way, we get into the spirit by pitting two aquatic luxury sports chronographs against one another. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A takes on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph 26703ST.Today’s Sunday Morning Showdown is...
Introducing The Bvlgari Ducati Aluminium Chronograph
There is no shortage of brand collaborations in the watch world. Their attractiveness usually hangs on your personal relationship with both brands. I can certainly see how this new Bvlgari Ducati Aluminium Chronograph will resonate with aficionados of watches and motorcycles. These are two passions that go together like peanut butter and jelly, or prosciutto and Parmigiano, if you prefer.?The Bvlgari AluminiumBvlgari introduced the Aluminium range in 1998. It is a thoroughly original ’90s design that has aged very well. Sure, the prominent logos on the rubber bezel divide opinions. However, there is no denying that the watch has a distinct visual identity and numerous characteristic de...
Seiko Prospex The Black Series Welcomes Three New Additions
Seiko divers Unmistakable, ubiquitous, legendary. Since the Japanese brand released its very first diver in 1965 - the famous 62MAS - it has not fallen short of coming up with new collections that have been revised and then re-interpreted. Amongst the upgrades, one will find better construction, brighter and longer-lasting lume, and upgraded movements, while the styling of the watches remains more or less the same. That is true with the Prospex line, however, in the past few months, all of the divers got a full black-ops treatment with the three new models in the Prospex The Black Series.This series is not new, as Thomas Stover wrote about when the brand introduced three models this year. Bu...
The OAK Collection On Display, Regulateur App, And A Watch Novel
For Fratelli living in the proximity of London or traveling there today or tomorrow, this episode of Coffee Corner Watch Talk contains an urgent message. Let me start with that. The inaugural display of The OAK Collection - a spectacular, one-of-a-kind collection that reflects French businessman Patrick Getreide's 40-year horological passion - will only be shown at the Design Museum until Wednesday, May 25th before it goes on a world tour. Now, for something less pressing, I have an announcement about a free app called Regulateur. It’s a handy tool that will make life so much easier if you have trouble setting your watches and complications. And for those who have been dying for a myst...
New NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Neomatik Models (2022)
It's not exactly a secret that round watches are an easier sell than their square counterparts. If you ask around industry experts, you'll often hear the 10% rule thrown about, suggesting that nine out of every ten watches is round. But that doesn't mean the remaining 10% comprises naught but squares! No, the humble square watch has all kinds of creative shapes to fight against for your attention. Tonneau cases, rectangular cases, ovals, rhomboids, shields, and all kinds of gons. When it comes to true square watches in the modern industry, however, there is one that always leaps to my mind first. I am (obviously) talking about the NOMOS Glashutte Tetra, one of the four models that have been ...
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic: An All-New Look For 2022
Hamilton has a rich legacy in American watchmaking, and not just for railroad and aviation watches. The company created the Canteen watch worn by U.S. Navy “frogmen” (the predecessors of the Navy SEALs) during World War II. The commercial version of this watch debuted in 1951 and was simultaneously immortalized through its prominent feature in the movie The Frogmen. Fast forward 70 years and Hamilton has now given the Frogman watch a complete overhaul. The result is the latest-generation Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic featuring a modern engine and a contemporary look.In a market filled with vintage-inspired dive watches, this is a bold and refreshing move. Hamilton could have capit...
The Rado Over-Pole Jet-Sets Once Again With A Twist
Would you believe that a new Rado Over-Pole has been a long time coming? We'll get to that in a moment, but thankfully the watch is here. How did Rado do with this newest throwback release?Call it a premonition, but it was over two years ago that some folks from Rado reached out to ask about my vintage Over-Pole. To be honest, it was an out-of-the-blue message because my #TBT article was more than a year old. Furthermore, it was strange because the Over-Pole was - how shall I say it? - a nearly unknown watch. In that article, though, I did mention that making a new Over-Pole would be a relatively low hurdle for Rado because it was basically a carbon copy of the Captain Cook diver with a few ...
Fratello On Air: Watch News And First Impressions
Welcome one and all to this week’s episode of Fratello On Air. As Mike is out of town, Balazs invites Nacho - who happened to be in Germany - to join him for a chat. Today’s installment brings you a loosely structured discussion. The guys talk about their current comings and goings before steering into the topics of watch news and case back engravings. They then wrap things up by running through some first impressions of classic watches from TAG Heuer, IWC, and Grand Seiko....
Fratello REM Houston We've Had A Problem Strap
I am very excited to announce our fifth Speedmaster strap collaboration with REM. This month’s “Houston, We’ve Had A Problem” strap will perfectly suit your Omega Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary edition. This watch debuted on October 5th, 2020 (exactly 50 years after Omega received NASA’s Snoopy Award) and has been in production since. It was one of the first special Speedmaster models to be available upon request rather than a numbered limited edition.Silver Snoopy AwardTherefore, the Speedmaster Professional Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary is also a bit controversial. This is because, despite being not a limited edition, it&#...
What Watch Will You Wear This Wedding Season?
The weather is finally showing us some proper sunshine and higher temperatures here in the Netherlands. It actually feels like summer is approaching, and that means wedding season is about to start or is already well underway. So it’s time to think about what watch to wear on that special day. And we’re not just talking about the watches for the happy couple. These watches can also be worn by honorable guests, of course.Especially nowadays, people don’t dress up that often anymore. We work from home quite regularly, dressed in our onesies, and when we’re in the office, it almost looks like it’s casual Friday every day of the week. At least weddings give us a cha...
Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Chronograph
Chicago-based Oak & Oscar has been in business since 2015. Over the last nine years, the brand has assembled a back catalog of attractive, ruggedly built watches that pay tribute to the Windy City. Furthermore, the timepieces display a design consistency normally reserved for larger, historic brands. Today’s Oak & Oscar Atwood chronograph continues this trend with increased functionality.It’s hard to believe we’re approaching the 10-year mark since Chase Fancher founded Oak & Oscar. I still recall meeting him in London that year at SalonQP when he brought his first watch, the Burnham. Since then, we’ve covered almost all of the brand’s models, and I ...
Introducing: The Serica 6190 M.S.L. Chronometer
Designing and producing robust and elegant wristwatches is what it's all about for Serica. Today, the brand's founders Jer?me Burgert and Gabriel Vachette launch a new iteration of their 6190 field watch. Although under a different name (or reference, for that matter), this is where it all started for the young Parisian brand. You'll see, though, that quite a lot has changed since then. Let's take a look at the Serica 6190 M.S.L. Chronometer.It has only been five years since Serica launched its first watch, the W.W.W., which stood for “Wrist Watch Waterproof.” However, it has seen several iterations and improvements since 2019. A year after its debut, the water resistance rating ...
Introducing: The Ming 37.09 Bluefin Diver
I always find new releases from Ming interesting, but the thought of a new diver from the brand brings me to the edge of my seat. Ming’s designers rarely dabble in tool watches, so when they do, it’s worth taking notice. Today’s new 37.09 Bluefin comes nearly four years after the original Ming diver, the 18.01, and brings noticeable differences.There are many reasons why I enjoy Ming watches. The brand’s focus on design purity, continuity between models, and innovative materials stand out as highlights. The sheer simplicity of many Ming designs has also attracted me to them while taking a toll on my bank account. This fanatical obsession with cleanliness and purity, h...
#TBT An Intriguing Citizen Auto Dater 7 APSS52903-T
This watch has been sitting in my safe and waiting for its moment for ages! After several weeks of heavy-hitting Gallet chronographs, I spotted a watch lying face down in the corner of the safe. I turned it over, and there it was - my abandoned crazy-lumed Citizen Auto Dater 7. I took it out to show it mercy, and I couldn’t have chosen any better!Do you want my confession? Maybe you don’t, but here it is: I have not worn this Citizen Auto Dater 7 a single time since it arrived. Don’t ask me why because I do like the watch a lot. I instantly liked it when I saw it, didn’t research it, and ordered it on a whim.Setting the moodIf there are a few stereotypes you can rely ...
Hands-On: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Watches
The Millesime collection by Raymond Weil took us by surprise when it launched last year. Once in a while, a watch comes along that just seems to work. The design and the execution just click. The Millesime is such a watch. So when Raymond Weil announced new models, I was keen to give them a try.Today, I am testing the 35mm Automatic, the 39.5mm Moon Phase, and a new green-dial Small Seconds model on a bracelet. These models will become available in September.The Raymond Weil MillesimeIn case you aren't yet familiar with the Raymond Weil Millesime, let me give you some background. Millesime means vintage in French, and these watches certainly look the part. However, if you follow my writing, ...
Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading With No Regrets
Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. This topic is familiar to all those who spend enough time around watches and especially to those who consider themselves collectors. Buying, selling, and trading watches comes with the territory, and though a decision may seem solid at the time you make it, you may always regret it. In this week’s episode, Nacho, RJ, and Morgan discuss keeping regrets to a minimum when buying, selling, or trading watches and offer advice in doing so. But is it possible to avoid regrets altogether? Before we answer that, let’s take a look at what’s on the guys’ wrists this week....