Assessing The NOMOS Glashutte Metro Neomatik 41 Update From A Technical Perspective
During the Watches & Wonders fair, we covered the new NOMOS Glashutte Metro neomatik 41 Update in one of the industry’s earliest hands-on reviews (thanks NOMOS). In that review, Jorg took the lead and shared his thoughts about the new Metro. Now it’s my turn to analyze the star behind the show: the in-house DUW 6101 neomatik date caliber.If you’d like to read Jorg’s thoughts on this model and how he fared with it on his wrist for a week, you can find the first article here. Before I dive into what makes the DUW 6101 special, I’d like to share my thoughts on the same subject:Why we needed thisThe Metro has always been a favorite line of mine. Despite that, I ...
My Custom-Made Speedmaster Watch Box By Officina Creativo
Searching for the right watch roll or watch box can be quite a journey. I have tried many boxes, including the now-discontinued Orbita aluminum case and a bunch of wooden boxes as well. None of them really wowed me, though, until I saw a handmade wooden watch box from Officina Creativo.Watch boxes by Officina CreativoI had already noticed Officina Creativo’s work on Instagram, and not too long ago, my friend Ralph (@fiftyfathommilspec) brought his custom-made Officina Creativo case to the watch get-together we reported about here. I was thrilled and got in touch with Richard, the owner of Officina Creativo, to discuss the possibility to create a box for some of my Speedmaster watches. ...
The New Piaget Polo Date In Black Feels Familiar Yet Fresh
During Watches And Wonders 2022, we saw a plethora of impressive timepieces. In the stream of new releases, we missed a familiar face that has returned to the spotlight. Piaget introduced a new version of its sporty luxury watch, the Polo Date in black. The watch not only brings a new dial color to the collection but also sees the introduction of a black rubber strap. This combination was not previously available from Piaget, so let’s take a look and find out more.When it comes to Piaget and Watches And Wonders 2022, it was all about the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. This special creation that Daan wrote about?celebrates the fifth anniversary of the Altiplano line. It shows Piaget’...
#ORANGE King's Day Special: TAG Heuer, Doxa, Omega, and More
King's Day is like the 4th of July in the US, but brighter and bigger in the hearts of the Dutch people. Me, I'm Norwegian, but I'll eat my hat if I don’t put on something orange this week. This is easily the biggest event that takes place not just in Amsterdam but throughout all of the Netherlands. Be prepared for towns, cities, canals, streets, and parks filled with celebration. We kick it off with our #ORANGE King's Day Special!#ORANGE is the color, and spring is in the air. And if you're just Dutch by proxy like me in my editor's role, join in anyway. I mean, what better way to cheer yourself up than with a madly bright pop of juicy orange? Spring might not have warmed up everywher...
Fratello On Air: Vintage Chronograph Movements
Fratello On Air is here, and we finally get around to answering a reader’s question about vintage chronograph movements. Are there differences? Which do we like best? We attempt to answer some of these questions in a chatty, non-technical way. We hope you enjoy it!...
Hands-On: The Ingenious Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat
At my niece’s birthday last year, the news finally broke that I had become a total watch nerd. I finally showed my family the Instagram account I had been running for a year and a half, and they asked me about the watches I owned. I named a few, and then they looked at my wife and asked, “So, what are you wearing?” She proudly showed them her Timex Waterbury, which I got her for around $80 a few years ago. What she didn’t know was that, behind her back, I had already ordered a Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat for her 40th birthday.I got her that Timex because she had seen an actual Datejust at one of her gym classes and told me she liked it. Back then, I told her what tha...
Quiet Luxury Watches: JLC, Chopard, Blancpain, And More
Logomania in fashion is very easy to spot and define. But logomania also applies to watches. Dare I say that the watch equivalent of a Gucci tracksuit is the GMT-Master II Pepsi on a Jubilee bracelet? But there's a new trend in town, and it's called “Quiet Luxury.” It refers to ways of dressing that subtly hint at luxury in the form of superb materials, great craftsmanship, and unobtrusive logos. But even the most luxurious wardrobe without a matching watch is just clothing. There are, of course, plenty of matching watches available that also whisper class, quality, and understated luxury. It might be a bit harder to find them because these are soft-spoken timepieces, very much ...
The Rikketik Vintage Watch, Clock, And Timepiece Fair
The Rikketik fair has existed for as long as I can remember. And yes, that’s quite some time. My watch memory goes back to the 1980s, and the Rikketik fair already existed then. At that time, it was in Utrecht, but nowadays, it’s in Houten, just a stone’s throw away.In my opinion, an update of RJ’s Rikketik article from 2006 was long overdue. That year might have been the last time that I visited the fair too. So on April 23rd, 2023, RJ, Sinara, and I traveled to Houten to see what the Rikketik fair is like today.The Rikketik Vintage Watch, Clock, and Timepiece FairAs mentioned, the fair is held (four times a year) in Houten, not even 10 kilometers south of Utrecht...
Hajime Asaoka's New Tourbillon Noir
If I claim Hajime Asaoka to be the best-known progenitor of independent Japanese watchmaking, I'm not exaggerating. Asaoka-san was the first non-Western member of the AHCI, the Association of Independent Watchmakers, and is one of only two Japanese along with Masahiro Kikuno. Known for very low production numbers and handcrafted watches, the sensei of small-scale high horology in Japan is self-taught, a staggering feat. With watches such as the Tsunami, Project T tourbillon, and Chronograph, Hajime Asaoka had only produced 18 watches by 2018, so we're talking very limited quantities here. The new Tourbillon Noir, a 37mm model still deeply inspired by Art Deco, is coming this year, and I̵...
URWERK UR-100V Magic T: Celebrating The Magic Of Gray
I’ve always said that URWERK’s UR-100V is the brand’s most versatile canvas. For a watch that is rather unique in its aesthetic, it never surprises me quite how many different personas the model can effortlessly assimilate. From bright colors to alternative composite cases, it’s seen some eye-catching guises over the years. However, URWERK experiments with its stripped-back take on minimalism with its latest release. Let’s take a closer look at the new UR-100V Magic T.The URWERK UR-100V Magic T continues to explore the “cold” color spectrum. Working within the confines of achromatic colors like black, gray, and white, it becomes more challenging to e...
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Style60's GMT
It looks like Seiko is on a mission to equip more and more of its watches with a GMT caliber. It all started last year when the fan-favorite Seiko 5 GMT series came out. Then, at the beginning of this year, the famous “Sumo” diver got a solar-powered GMT movement. And last March, Seiko fitted another trio of Prospex dive watches with a higher-end automatic GMT caliber. All those watches have one thing in common: they’re all based on dive watches that have been turned into GMTs. The watch that today’s release is based upon, however, was actually a monopusher chronograph. Let’s take a closer look at the Seiko Presage Style60’s GMT references SSK009, SSK011, ...
Introducing: Depancel Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92
Imagine driving your mint-green Ford Mustang convertible from the ’60s along the Californian coast during the golden hour. You’re wearing your favorite pair of Wayfarer-style sunglasses, and the wind is gently blowing through your hair. On your wrist is the brand-new mint-green Depancel Worn & Wound Allure with a vintage Valjoux 92 movement inside. It’s the perfect companion for this nice spring evening. All right, I might not have come up with that little fantasy all by myself. I guess the lifestyle shots that came with the press release helped a little bit.If you’re familiar with other limited-edition watches in collaboration with the guys over at Worn & Wou...
Hands-On: Patek Philippe 5236P Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial
The big news from Patek Philippe at this year's Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar with a new salmon dial.Sure, this is merely a new colorway for an existing watch. However, I wouldn't be surprised if many of you don't have the in-line perpetual calendar at the forefront of your mind. Let's change that today!The Patek Philippe 5236P from 2021This watch was first released at Watches and Wonders 2021 as the 5236P-001 with a vertically brushed ...
The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique
Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we’re coming back late due to our busy schedules. We’ve decided to cut this recording in half and will come back on our regularly scheduled day next week. For this episode, we talk about the new Amida Digitrend and a vintage Tissot Antimagnetique....
Dive Watches For Shallow People
Let me make something crystal clear: I'm not a watch fundamentalist. I don't live by the strict rule that you can only wear an X-type watch when you are doing an X-type of activity. If I did, I probably couldn't wear any of the watches in my modest collection. Since I'm not flying a spacecraft, I wouldn't allow myself to wear my Speedmaster, for instance. But - yes, there is a “but” here - there are limits when it comes to the initial function and purpose of a watch, the execution of it, and the way it's being worn. After seeing the unveiling of a classic dive watch in an exotic alloy last year, I first thought of putting together an article about dive watches for shallow people....
The Palace by Jean Dunand The Best of BaselWorld 2010
Last year in Basel, during the BaselWorld 2009 show, I was introduced to Jean Dunand by my friend Frank (Monochrome), Suryia Hill (Sparkle) and Ian Skellern. Truth to be told, I had not taken the time to read about Jean Dunand time pieces and boy did I regret that. Luckily, Thierry Oulevay (owner of Jean Dunand Pieces Uniques) had enough patience to explain about Jean Dunand and his exceptional time pieces. The Tourbillon Orbital he showed me was a master piece that was simply stunning. I covered the Tourbillon Orbital Confucius in an article last year (click here) on FW.Photo courtesy of Jean Dunand. Standing is Thierry Oulevay, sitting behind his desk is Christophe Claret.This year, Suryia...
Baselworld 2013 Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face
You probably know Hamilton for their affordable yet very interesting mechanical timepieces. We visited them yesterday and they showed us their masterpiece watch for Baselworld 2013, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face. A very cool oval shaped timepiece that you can reverse. This means that you can turn the watch around by this clever mechanism that Hamilton came up with. On the one side, this watch is a chronograph and on the other side it is a time-only watch. The price of the watch is almost very un-Hamilton-ish, but let’s zoom in first at this piece before we get to the pricing.In both cases, you are able to see one of the two mechanical movements. The movements are the ETA2094 for ...
Hands-On With The Tudor Pelagos 25600TB
For a few years in a row now, Tudor is one of those brands that’s getting a lot of love from watch enthusiasts during the annual Baselworld exhibition. In our article of last week, where we featured our team’s favorite watches (25 in total) and 5 let-down watches, Tudor also got a number of mentions. Not only did Tudor introduce the new North Flag watch (we talked about it here), but they also introduced a?revised Pelagos collection.Not long after Tudor introduced the Pelagos 25500TN, I wrote a review about it here. I was quite impressed as, as it felt like it was a modern interpretation of the – then discontinued – Sea-Dweller 4000ft/1220m. This year, Tudor decided ...
Watches For King's Day What Watch Does King Willem-Alexander Wear?
Today, the 27th of April is King’s Day in the Netherlands. King Willem-Alexander van Oranje celebrates his birthday and therefore I will show some watches that have a bit of orange (oranje) in them.King Willem-Alexander is also a big fan of watches, and you might even see him wearing an Omega Speedmaster once in a while. I personally think it is cool that he wears a Speedmaster while he can (and probably does) wear any high-end brand on any day of the week. His wife, Queen?Mxima Zorreguieta, often wears a .FOTO: ? GTRESONLINEAfter seeing an image of Willem-Alexander in a Dutch newspaper, I thought I recognized a Speedmaster on his wrist. After going through dozens of images of our Kin...
The LIP Nautic-Ski Automatic A Faithful Super Compressor Reissue
If you're a student of the vintage game, then you've likely heard of LIP watches. The French brand was founded in 1867 and created some rather innovative pieces before going through some difficult times in the mid 1970's and 1980's. If you're an electronic watch fun, LIP deserves credit by introducing the world's 2nd electronic watch (ok, electromechanical) in 1952 and the first with a date. During the 1960's and 1970's, LIP also distributed other brands as well such as Breitling. LIP even had some of their own designs built by Breitling in Breitling cases. But coming back to 1967, the brand created a famous Super Compressor-cased diver with an electronic movement: the LIP Nautic-Ski. Fast f...