No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is Wrong
Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn't cut it. Luckily, the Age of Alternatives seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years are becoming available - first choices and alternatives alike.When was the last time you made a terrible watch decision? And was that decision a bad one because the watch let you down from a technical point of view or because it just didn't do the job? The immaterial job of not scratching an incessant itch, that is. Chances are, the timepiece was an alternative to something you couldn't get your hands on, and y...
Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models
Louis Vuitton isn’t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we’ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the lineup. Both of these models make for elegant yet wearable daily watches.Call us skeptics, but when high-fashion or jewelry brands push into the watch market, we pore over the details with our collective fine-toothed combs. Often, these are little more than branding exercises, leaving us watch nerds cold. Louis Vuitton, however, hasn’t phoned in...
Double Eagle
The Omega Constellation Double Eagle model has been the biggest change of the Constellation line since 1982. Before that, only the 1952-1969 era counts. In the 70s there was no real clear and defined Constellation design. The Manhattan series, which seems to be some kind of??’code name’ for the post-1982 Constellation models, didn’t change much until 1995. Most post-Constellation series were referred to as Constellation95 models. Not too long ago, Omega did some restyling and admitted to the big & bold hype of most other brands out there. Although it is hard to think of it as a hype anymore. Big watches are here to stay, maybe next to smaller watches again.. but defina...
Visual Complications from The Past: Cartier Pasha Day & Night
Cartier PashaBefore we come to this about 18 year old Cartier?Pasha, you should know that?(until about 10 years ago)?the production of Cartier watches was done very differently than it is today. It was ?around 2007, when there was a complete change in the way of working and that the production of actually everything, was re-arranged at Cartier.Manufacture in La Chaux-de-FondsWhen Cartier finally decided not to rely on third parties anymore (for calibers and parts), they?built a huge 30.000 square meters vertically integrated manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Cartier also hired new staff and appointed the right people to do the job. Carole Forestier-Kasapi?(responsible for the development and...
Hublot MP-05 "LaFerrari" Sapphire
A sapphire setting for the record-breaking movementWhile the original design of the MP-05 LaFerrari was created to show off the beauty of its movement, its alter ego with its case carved out of sapphire is a movement which appears to be literally suspended in mid-air. All the details of this record-breaking movement can be admired from all angles. With the MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire, Hublot takes us into a supernatural world. A material presence which is almost intangible.The story behind the mythUnveiled in 2013, the MP-05 “LaFerrari”,?created as a tribute to the eponymous supercar, showcased its unique and ultra-complex architecture. The lines of the MP-05 LaFerrari are the resul...
Speedy Tuesday The Timely Wrist Calendar
A topic that kept our friend TLIGuy occupied for a while has to do with the use of calendars by astronauts during their mission. In fact, he asked a few astronauts about the H-shaped calendar they wore on their JB Champion bracelets, and at some point, he received an answer by one of them via e-mail.Timely Wrist CalendarThe astronaut answered that he suddenly recalled the brand name of the H-shaped calendars they used on their Speedmaster watches. They were called Timely Wrist Calendar. TLIGuy mentioned that it was quite interesting to get an e-mail from an astronaut who recalled something futile like this, as he has been flying jets, orbiting and walking on the surface of the Moon. And now ...
You Asked Us: Is it worth it to have my Cortebert Sport Chronograph repaired?
This time we’re looking at a question sent to us through our contact form by Carlos from New York. Carlos inherited a Cortebert Chronograph from his grandfather. But in a side-walk collision he, unfortunately, lost one of the chronograph pushers, and he’s now looking at how to have the watch repaired.You Asked Us: How important is it to use an authentic part to repair my Cortebert Chronograph?Here’s the full text of Carlos’ question:Hello! Would love to hear your thoughts on something. I inherited my grandfather’s watch, and although it was a brand I’d never heard of, I thought it was one of the most beautiful watches I’d ever seen and worked perfect...
Watch Strap Review Part 34. Difues Leather WSR Alumni
In August, we introduced FinWatchStraps to you. A company from Finland with a rather large variety of straps. If you missed that article, please click here. For September, I had a few things lined up, but thanks to the ever so active German customs those projects fell through.Don't worry; I'll keep fighting with the system. In the meantime, an old friend got in touch with us. Max from Difues Leather is a Watch Strap Review alumni, as I introduced his work to you guys in the 12th installment back in 2015. To bring you up to speed regarding Difues Leather and Max, here are a few facts about him; Max is based in Belarus, he sells through Etsy, Difues Leather also has an IG account, and he sent ...
This Week in Watches: October 10, 2020 Birthday Edition
Welcome back to This Week in Watches for October 10, 2020 the Birthday Edition. Birthdays are this week’s theme because it seems so many people have them in October. There’s yours truly and so many others - the result of New Year’s revelry perhaps? Now, let’s try to find some suitable gifts.Norqain Freedom 60 GMTOur first apt birthday gift comes from Norqain in the form of the new Freedom 60 GMT and, folks, if you’re buyin’ I’m in! These newest additions to the field watch styled Freedom collection add the chronometer-certified NN20/2 manufacture GMT movement with independent hour hand and 70 hours of power reserve. So yes folks, this is what watch s...
The Savoir-Faire Of Artisans De Genve
Being unique is “en-vogue” in a big way. People are naturally drawn to exclusivity and the idea of having something that nobody else does. That also goes for watch collecting. Look at how popular limited editions and numbered series of releases can be. That exclusivity can inflate prices on the second-hand market. It is down to the fact that people want what others don't, or can't, have. Artisans de Genve provides that service in a thoroughly independent fashion.More and more independent watchmakers and brands are catering to this trend. They assemble and build their watches to order, allowing their customers to customize the colors, finishes, and other aspects of their watch. T...
What's Next For Tissot After The PRX?
As many of you know, Tissot found great success in last year's release of the PRX. The Le Locle brand followed up strong with the release of the PRX Chronograph. Yet I can't help but wonder: what's next? Will it be endless iterations of the PRX family of watches? Well, there's nothing wrong with playing your hit song at every gig, maybe giving it a little twist now and then. But in the end, the time comes when your fans expect something new. And after writing a hit song, as you surf the high, the pressure is also on to follow up with something strong. But will Tissot deliver? I sure hope so, but some of the brand's other recent releases have sparked some fear in my mind. Was the PRX just a l...
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer & Upcoming Auctions
You couldn't have missed the recent introduction of the Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer. It was all over our website. And for good reason. It's not every day that you get to watch the launch of a tool watch that's made together with a space agency. The pros at the European Space Agency (ESA) came up with a wish list of very specific timing functions they need to operate their Mars lander on the Red Planet. The presentation did answer a lot of very difficult questions, but it also left the room to ponder about the watch, its functions, and its mission. But that was something I did after the show. My thoughts about the Marstimer belong in a Coffee Corner Watch Talk. And there's also a heads-u...
Stealth Wealth Watches: Omega, Grand Seiko, Patek, And More
Not all of us are Premier League footballers. Most of us have pretty normal jobs, and we would look ridiculous flashing a brightly colored Richard Mille. Add to that all of the horror stories about robberies, and the concept of “stealth wealth” starts to seem pretty attractive. There is something so cool about a watch that feels like business but that no one notices - a private menage deux between you and your watch. You know what you've got, and that is enough.Now, there are several ways to go about stealth wealth when it comes to watches. Let me share some strategies and examples here. We will start with some exotic stuff, but rest assured, there is something here for more re...
Introducing The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver GMT Trio
BOLDR has something exciting coming. Following the success of its Globetrotter GMT and Venture GMT, the Singaporean microbrand is turning its hand to a GMT dive watch. Its latest creation, the Odyssey Freediver GMT, uses the recently launched Miyota 9075, an affordable 4Hz traveler's GMT movement. The new addition to the Odyssey Freediver collection is one of the most attainable true GMT watches currently on the market.A new accessible-GMT segmentThe race to launch an affordable automatic GMT watch is over between two Japanese giants Seiko and Citizen. Seiko set the watch community on fire when it crossed the finish line first in June with its Seiko 5 GMT series, which Nacho covered here. Th...
A Mir-Flown Omega Speedmaster Goes Up For Sale
As RJ is traveling, I have the honor of taking over his Speedy Tuesday slot today. My old friends at Amsterdam Watch Company are bringing a watch to market. Now, that isn't something we would usually cover, but this one is quite special and provides a good excuse to revisit an interesting chapter in Speedmaster history. This is one of 35 Speedmasters that spent 365 days aboard the Mir space station.Let me take you back to July 1993. Omega sends 18 regular steel Speedmaster Professional watches on bracelets, 10 on leather straps, and seven in full gold to the Mir space station. It would be a full year until they would come back to our humble blue and green marble. One of the steel models was ...
Serica Introduces The 6190 Field Chronometer
I got my first taste of Serica a little over two years ago with the brand’s 4512. And what a great first taste it was! The 4512 was a modern take on a classic field watch done right with a ton of character to make it stand out from the crowd. In the next step for Serica, founder Jer?me Burgert decided to update the 4512. Today’s new version introduces a self-winding movement, a slimmer case, and a COSC chronometer certification. On top of that, all three dial designs were updated, which was more than enough reason for Burgert to give the series a new reference and introduce the Serica 6190 Field Chronometer.Ever since I got that first taste of the Serica 4512, I have followed eve...
New: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Now In Blue And Pink
Zenith has slowly expanded its Chronomaster Sport line with some great new models. After the first two versions in stainless steel with white and black dials, we have seen several variations that all look quite stunning. From the brilliant tricolor-bezel Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition to the two-tone rose gold/steel and fully rose gold versions, it has become an impressive lineup. In the next step, Zenith introduces the new blue-dial version of the Chronomaster Sport. This model sees the brand opting for a stainless steel bezel rather than a ceramic one. The surprising combination works really well and follows last week’s Chronomaster Sport Pink. It’s time to find out more a...
Hot Take: The New Ming 37.07 Monolith
Today, we’re talking about the Ming 37.07 Monolith, the newest release from a brand we enjoy here at Fratello. The watch follows a tested formula of offering a DLC-coated variant of a prior release with deliberate design changes that should make it attractive for collectors. As always with Ming, the details are important and worthy of discussion.As the resident Ming fan here at Fratello, I’m always on the lookout for the brand’s next release. The announcements seem to come at random moments but are never too tightly or loosely spaced. With Ming’s production back on track, it was time for a new watch in the form of the 37.07 Monolith.The first 37.07In July 2022, I went...
Discussing Time-Only Watches From The '40s And '50s
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss time-only watches from the ’40s and ’50s. It’s a subject that Balazs knows well, and Mike is keen to pick his brain on it. This is a slightly different topic for us, so don’t expect the usual brands to surface. We hope you enjoy it....
Three US-Exclusive Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT Watches
It’s already been a little over a year since the launch of the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series. I can still remember the palpable excitement within the watch community when the watches came out. Some people had already seen some leaked images, and others had been simply hoping the concept would become a reality one day. In the Fratello office, we were also very positively surprised by the arrival of the “5KX GMT.” And now Seiko has introduced three new US-exclusive versions.These new colors come in addition to the original orange, blue, and black versions of the Seiko 5 GMT. This time, there is a modest “Pepsi” version with a charcoal dial and a red and blue chapter r...