How Watches Work: What Is Carbon Fiber In Watchmaking?
We've all seen watches made from carbon fiber. But, this futuristic-looking material imparts more than just aesthetical benefits to watches. It's strong, and it's lightweight, and, depending on your tastes, it looks pretty darn cool too. That said, what actually is it? Let's find out!Thankfully, it’s is one of those materials that give a lot away from the name alone. Carbon fiber primarily comprises carbon atoms bonded together into long chains or fibers. As we've already established, these fibers are incredibly strong and lightweight; two characteristics most welcome in watchmaking. It is around five times stronger than steel and twice as stiff. Though carbon composites are more robus...
Buying Guide: The Best Swatch Watches From The 1990s (2021)
We like to talk about vintage watches a lot within the Fratello team. While the daily routine is largely focused on the most recent developments in the world of watches, the most fun for many of us lies in the sometimes weird and often wonderful world of vintage watches. It’s a world full of history, remarkable watches, incredible stories, and quirky details. It inspired us to come up with a series of articles focusing on the best watches per decade from a select group of brands. Some of them are priceless, some of them still affordable. In this installment, we will take a look at the best Swatch watches from the 1990s.This week we will continue our journey through watch history to fin...
?Tourbillon: A Relic Of The 1800s Or A Future-Proof Wonder?
The tourbillon is perceived as a horological status symbol or badge of honor. But is it simply an anachronistic invention that only belongs in the most traditional watches? Well, for many, this complication (if it can even be called that) is the watch-collecting endgame. Not a particular watch, mind you, but the tourbillon itself. Such is the pull of this enigmatic collection of parts, usually no bigger than the small seconds register at 6 o'clock that it often replaces. A tourbillon is merely an accuracy-enhancing tool meant for pocket watches. Wikipedia tells it simply, underlining that, yes, it is another invention of Abraham-Louis Breguet, just like the overcoil hairspring and those dele...
Dear Oris, Bring Back The Aquis Regulateur Der Meistertaucher
It first appeared on the scene in 1999, but despite its unconventional appearance, the Oris Regulateur Der Meistertaucher was a hit. Please remember, in those days, you could still buy a sports with a bit of discount at your AD. Watch lovers were also a bit more adventurous. I mean, they weren’t afraid to try to stand out in their peer group - if you think I'm implying that the majority of today's watch lovers only want to wear what the other one is wearing, you're not mistaken. The unconventional Der Meistertaucher was even the best-selling Oris for a while. But since “the times, they are a-changing,” the watch faded away. But I feel it's time for it to resurface. So Oris...
Battle Of The Batteries Grand Seiko Versus Cartier Quartz
In this week's Sunday Morning Showdown, we present the battle of the batteries with two brands well-known for their quartz offerings, Grand Seiko and Cartier. We have GS-owner Thomas defending the quartz offerings from the Land of the Rising Sun. Cartier-wearing Daan will represent the French house. Since Thomas’s GS is hand-wound and Daan's Cartier is automatic, they will both have to step out into unfamiliar territory. Let's see who is most at home with quartz.We are not pitting two particular references or calibers against each other. Well, maybe we will just a bit, but that is not the main focus. Instead, we are battling on the conceptual level of quartz technology. Grand Seiko and...
Introducing: The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pineapple Dream
There are a few brands that keep me intrigued with every release, and Zodiac is one of them. The combination of great designs and funky colors always makes me curious to find out what is next. One of this year’s highlights for me was the blue-dial version of the white-cased Super Sea Wolf Ceramic. In retrospect, it was my favorite summer watch of this year by a mile. With the new Super Sea Wolf Pineapple Dream, Zodiac is extending summer for us a bit longer. This eye-catching release is the second collaborative effort with aBlogtoWatch founder Ariel Adams. After last year’s teal and turquoise Super Sea Wolf Aquamarine Dream, Zodiac now treats us to a tropical green and yellow fol...
Hot Take: The Alpina Alpiner Extreme California
Today, we’ll take a quick look at a recent release known as the Alpina Alpiner Extreme California. This is the latest addition to the Alpiner Extreme collection, which features bold, sporty watches. For this model, readability is the key with its recognizable dial.The Alpina Alpiner Extreme California is a tough-looking sports watch with equally beefy specs. The dial will be familiar to watch fans because the general design has found its way into many models from many brands. Let’s take a closer look at this release and see if it hits the mark.The Alpina Alpiner Extreme CaliforniaThe newest Alpiner Extreme builds on a collection that we’ve reviewed in the past. These watche...
Introducing: The Brellum Pandial LE.5 DD DLC Full Black
Stealthy all-black watches are an interesting phenomenon. They often look stylish, and a PVD or DLC treatment can completely change the aesthetic of a steel model. But some watches wear a black outfit better than others. With the new Brellum Pandial LE.5 DD DLC Full Black Chronometer, I had the chance to check out an all-black version of the brand’s classic Pandial sports chronograph. This 33-piece limited edition changes the Pandial from a vintage-inspired chronograph to a stealthy one that stands out instead of blending in. Let me explain why.What makes a good stealthy watch? It is more than just a black aesthetic. There have to be little visual accents that pop to make it “wor...
Falling In Love Again With My Chronoswiss Timemaster
The shock was so big that I went into a state of denial for many months. Do you know the feeling when you, with your sleepy head, try to put on your watch and drop it on the floor? It is, quite literally, a breathtaking affair. And the blanket of disappointment that wraps itself around you when you find out the watch has stopped working might also be familiar. It happened to a watch that I bought about two decades ago, the 44mm Chronoswiss Timemaster CH 6233 LU. The wooden floor harmed my beloved glow-in-the-dark watch quite a bit, and it hurt me quite a bit too. But strangely enough, instead of getting in touch with a watchmaker, procrastination held me in a firm grip…until recently. ...
The Best Watches Under $5,000: Nacho's Picks
All right, folks, I hope you’re not tired of our series on the best watches under $5,000 just yet! It’s finally my turn, and I’m happy to see that my picks have not yet been taken. The final list will come from Thor later this week, but with me going second to last, there was always going to be a risk of having to pick from the leftovers. However, as risky as it was to have written down my list right as the series kicked off, I’m glad to be able to present the list unmodified. The sub-$5,000 price point is tricky. It’s one that was once synonymous with great watches from brands like Omega, Breitling, and Panerai. But the way that prices have evolved over the las...
New: The JLC Master Ultra Thin Date With A Blue-Gray Dial
If you ask someone to draw or describe the perfect dress watch, I’m sure it would look a lot like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin. Its classic case with elegantly sweeping lugs looks good on anyone’s wrist, and the dial is one of the cleanest and most legible in the industry. In short, it’s truly a masterpiece of a dress watch. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a new blue-gray sunburst dial for the Master Ultra Thin Date in addition to the silver and beige that were already available. Let’s take a quick look.For now, the new dial color is only available on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date. But I’m almost certain this sophisticated color will ...
New: The Ming 37.02 Minimalist With Live Photos
The new Ming 37.02 Minimalist is the latest release from the popular independent brand. As the model name implies, this is a straightforward execution. However, don’t let that fool you into thinking that Ming Thein and the team have forgotten to obsess about the details. They’re all here on this affordable option.During one of our podcasts several years ago, Balazs and I discussed models we’d like to see from our favorite brands. Ming qualifies, and I raised my desire for a straightforward, field-watch-like model with luminescent numerals. The Ming 37.02 Minimalist doesn’t follow that theme exactly, but it’s close. Plus, it’s better than another run-of-the...
Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer
Starting a watch brand from scratch is quite a risky venture. First, you invest a lot of time in developing a design. Then, you need to find other parties who want to help you realize what you had in mind. Finally, you’re dependent on whether people actually want to buy what you created. Because of all these risks, many (new) brands launch watches that look a lot like what’s already out there. Sometimes, though, there are people who go a different way, like Justin Walters from Alterum Watch Co. With the new Alterum Worldtimer, he tried to create a modern-looking timepiece based on more contemporary design and architecture. Whether you like it or not, at least the Alterum Worldtim...
Straum Introduces Three Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions
Whenever the Norwegian brand Straum unveils something new, we are all ears at Fratello. Most of you will know we love the brand and collaborated on the Fratello Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition. In a new adventure, brand founders Lasse Roxrud Farstad and ?ystein Helle Husby created three special new dials for the much-praised Jan Mayen watch. The dials are made from basalt rocks that the two men personally collected on the remote island of Jan Mayen. The result is a series of dials that stand out immediately and give the Straum Jan Mayen a unique look. Let’s find out more about this remarkable story.If you are familiar with Straum, you will know that Lasse Roxrud Farstad and ?ystein He...
Hands-On: The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases of this year's Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic Haute Horlogerie releases at the fair, this was a watch we might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was such a long-awaited and aesthetically predictable watch that we weren't that impressed. Ah, there it is, is how I remember responding to seeing the first press images and the real deal a bit later. I hardly paid it any mind.That doesn't seem entirely fair. The Black Bay has lifted Tudor?to new heights over the past 12 years. Fans have cried out for a modestly sized GMT watch in the Black Bay line for ages. So I felt it was about time I ga...
Hands-On: The New Sternglas Merion Diver
Sternglas has come a long way since its first watch debuted in 2016. The earliest models were straightforward Bauhaus-styled watches. While this design still governs the brand’s offerings, straightforward dress watches no longer dominate the catalog. Today’s Merion diver is a good example of how Sternglas has expanded.When I recall my formative collecting years, Seiko loomed large when searching for attractive, affordable dive watches. The Japanese brand offered a universe of options below $750. Now, as Seiko has moved upmarket, there are still some options, but most are lighter versions without a hefty depth rating or functional details like a screw-down crown. Seiko’s lac...
Meridian England's Proud Watch Heritage
On the 8th of November the doors to SalonQP in London will open. One of the most interesting items during the event will be the launch of a new watch brand with a ‘Made in England’-slogan called Meridian. This hand crafted watch – of which you see one of the early sketches below – has been manufactured in Norfolk, England.The case, case back, hand-stitched leather strap or webbing strap, dial, hands are all manufactured in England. Meridian sources mechanical movements from Switzerland but are hand-finished in Meridian’s style – with added complication – and assembled in their workshop as well.Meridian watches are certainly not meant to be safe queen...
FratelloWatches Took The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Class
Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the brands that has the most mechanical movements to pick from, all in-house developed and crafted. They can proudly say that they first design a watch and then create the movement for this particular design, instead of the other way round that we often see so much. Large watch cases with only a small mechanical movement inside is not something you will encounter from this brand from the Vallee de Joux in Switzerland.I was delighted when I received an invitation for their Master Class watchmaking course in Amsterdam, guided by one of their highly skilled watchmakers. Earlier this year, during their event at the 24 hours of the Nurburgring, I already received a shor...
Formex TS 3100 Limited Edition
Formex is back with a bang and presents the new TS 3100 line. Featuring the patented and unique case suspension system, the new Formex looks sporty, yet has a very refined finish and is limited to 999 pieces. The brand is known for their motor sports inspired designs, which remind of the design of high performance racing cars. The carbon fiber bezel and the red accents on the dial and hands, add to the dynamic look of the 46.5mm stainless steel and titanium case. The position of the crown and the Chrono pushers were moved to the left, in order to accommodate the prominent crown protection shield.The patented case suspension system, not only protects the watch from shocks, but also significan...
Two Speedmaster CK2915-1 Watches Being Auctioned At Bukowskis
Quite spectacular for Speedmaster enthusiasts is the auction at Bukowskis tomorrow on October 25th in Stockholm. Two first generation Speedmaster watches, reference CK2915-1. This means not only the first generation, but really the very first (‘-1’) models.According to Bukowskis, the pristine CK2915-1 from June 1958 is the most prestigious watch they’ve ever auctioned. Both Speedmaster CK2915-1 watches have the original broad arrow hands, non-Seahorse inscription case back and the original base 1000 bezel in stainless steel. One is estimated at around 95K Euro, the other (older one) at approximately 37K Euro. Why this difference? Let’s have a closer look.Bukowskis Spe...