Hands-On With The TWCO Air Controller
When reviewing a new brand, like?TWCO, for the first time this should come with a short introduction. Driven by passion, TWCO was founded in 2012 by Robbert Suurland. Robbert is a Dutch watchmaker from Oosterhout?who was only?19 years young?when he began with his new?brand. Thinking about?the four elements and fundamental forces that surround us every single day, he found a source for inspiration in two elements (water and air) that would be the leading factor for his line of watches to come. Timeless design, high quality and craftsmanship are the basics for the watches of TWCO.Starting off with a dive watch?called?the Sea Rescue Diver, TWCO?recently announced their?second model. The TWCO Ai...
Hands-On With The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Ref. 5035
A few years ago, when I was still in banking, I noticed that IWC became the new for many colleagues. Where the Submariners, Datejusts, Day-Dates and – of course – Daytonas were part of the appearance?of many colleagues for many years, there was a clear shift going on to IWC watches. My explanation for this would be that IWC changed its direction a bit from being a manufacturer of tool watches to being the manufacturer of watches for a wide(r) audience. Understandable. At that time I?also??decided to buy an IWC; an Ingenieur ref. 3227-01. Based on the heritage of a pure tool watch, but with the finish and elegance of a modern wearable mechanical timepiece.A watch I wore a lot an...
Fratello Watches Top 10 Chronographs
ChronographsBefore we hit it with our top 10 chronographs overview, a few words about this list. A chronograph is one of the most popular complications (besides a date), and it is actually a very complex mechanism. It is the reason why some brands still don’t have their own chronograph movement and use one from a third party.Chronograph ModuleYou might have heard about a chronograph module or add-on module. This means that there’s a base movement for hh:mm:ss (and date), and a little additional movement module that is put on top of the base movement. A well-known module manufacturer is?Dubois Depraz. A brand like Audemars Piguet for example, uses their own in-house manufactured c...
Hands-On with the Gruppo Gamma Diver's Watches LE
Reviewing watches from micro brands puts the tester in an awkward position. On the one hand, there exists a tendency to overrate a watch from a small startup because they tend to offer a lot for the money and, hey, everyone loves an underdog. On the other hand, these newcomer timepieces often exhibit some signs of teething that you'd likely not find with established makers. So, wherever parts come from, the desirability, feel and finish typically comes down to how that brand chooses their design and the related components. Speaking of parts, I've come to accept that countries such as China make some excellent watch components and they do this for more than the small or Asian-based brands. Ye...
Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44 Review
Chronomat is derived from? CHRONOgraph for MAThematicians and came to life in 1941. It was one of the first watches with a slide-rule (patented by Breitling in 1940) and this watch was delivered to the market in 1942. The Breitling Chronomat has a long history, which can be found in this article on WatchUseek?and is definitely worth reading if you’re into vintage Breitling Chronomat watches. In our Breitling expert interviews with Fred and Rene about Breitling, you can also find some interesting stories about some early Chronomat models.I am not sure if the person who is interested in the Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44 that we have on Fratello today is the typical collector who...
This Week in Watches: September 7, 2019
It’s This Week in Watches for September 7, 2019.Bonjour, collectionneur de montres!? This Week in Watches is back with another action-packed look at what went down over the past 7 days or so.? We actually have a lot to cover here, so I’ll skip my rant and get right down to it…MING 17.06 WatchesMING sent us word of two new watches that will become available for order on the 19th of September via their official site.? Both watches are 38mm (43.9 lug to lug) stainless pieces powered by an ETA 2824-2 automatic that’s been modified for two crown positions and adjusted to five positions.? Both are water resistant to 100 meters and feature a new case where the bezel is affix...
Hot Take: Geneva Watch Days Panerai Impresses With New Materials
Although not officially part of the Geneva Watch Days event, Panerai decided to open its doors to the traveling cartel of journalists and retailers to take advantage of the sudden influx of industry professionals over the 26th-29th of August 2020.We kicked off Thursday with a visit to the Panerai boutique in central Geneva. As it turned out, it was quite a revelation for all of us (RJ, Bert, Mike, and me). Many Fratello team members have owned Panerai watches in the past (and some still do). However, I do not, have not, and have never seriously considered it. Until now, that is…The closest I ever came to buying a Panerai, was buying horrendously cheap imitation cases to play with durin...
Watch On Your Wrist? Fratello Instagram Contest 2020 Round 12
Welcome back to our Watch On Your Wrist? Instagram extravaganza! Tag your watch snaps with #fratellowatches to be in with a chance to win!Every week, we select four images. You can vote in the article for your favorite image. The winner moves on to the semi-final round (held every fifth week between the previous four weekly winners). Win that and you’re into the final, which will be held at the end of the year. There will be five finalists in 2020 and ten from next year on.Basically, if you like winning things - and there will be a prize for the champion of 2020 - this year represents your best shot. So get snapping, get tagging, and get sharing. And don’t forget to vote (once) f...
Grand Seiko Professional 600M Diver's Watch, SLGA001
As one of the novelties introduced for the brand’s 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko gave the SLGA001 Limited Edition 600M Professional Diver’s the honor of presenting its all-new Spring Drive caliber. The 9RA5 caliber is slimmer, more precise, and has a greater power reserve than its predecessor.Grand Seiko Professional Diver’s 600M?Spring DriveIn my first article on the Spring Drive principle - I think it was early 2006 - I said Spring Drive was a solution to a problem that didn’t exist. That proved to be only partly true. The problem didn’t exist indeed, but Spring Drive wasn’t meant to be a solution. It became clear that it was an innovation. It was (and s...
Is the 2021 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Still A Moonwatch?
The launch of the latest Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch generated a murmur amongst Speedy enthusiasts. Voiced around the world, we have seen this question or better said, remark, popping up quite frequently. So I am here today to try and address the burning question: can the current Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch still be considered a Moonwatch? And while I’m at it, I’ll be looking at other Speedmasters to see how they hold up when faced with this same scrutiny.In getting right to the point regarding the latest Speedmaster released by Omega earlier this year, the short answer is quite simply “no”. Strictly speaking, the Speedmasters that were worn on the moon were reference...
What Is The Best Summer Watch? Tudor Vs. Yema (2021)
The Summer Splash Quarter-Finals swim on with two unorthodox takes on classical dive watches. Tomas, who has returned from his doping infraction, takes on Mike, who has been waiting in the (water) wings. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 battles the bronze Yema Superman GMT. After this clash, their cases may never look the same again!We kick this knockout round off with Mike’s trusty steed. Hi-ho Silver, away!!!Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925Before we jump in on?my part of the Summer Splash, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 still hasn’t tarnished after three months. Thanks for asking because I get that question every stinkin’ time I post this fantastic watch on Instagr...
Pop Art In The Tea Drawer How I Won A Cartier Tank Solo (2021)
I don't know about you, but when it comes to games of chance, or contests, or giveaways, I'm a bit of a skeptic. Going in without a single ounce of hope that you'll win is probably the safest bet. Getting your hopes up is a sure way to get disappointed. However, let’s go back to earlier this year when Jeremy (@Chronolytical) decided to organize a photo-contest giveaway using Instagram as a platform, with the prize being a beautiful Cartier Tank Solo. Having already given away the punchline in the title of this article, instead, I will tell you more about this specific contest, my experience taking part, winning despite not being all that hopeful, and Jeremy's future plans to keep the b...
Singer Flytrack Barista A Coffee Lover's Dream Watch
Judging by the multitude of pictures featuring a watch and some “casually strewn” coffee beans, there must be a lot of coffee lovers within the watch community. Well, if you’re one of them, then Singer Reimagined has just the watch for you! The new Flytrack Barista comes with a coffee timer on the dial, allowing you to produce the perfect cup of coffee with your fancy stainless steel espresso machine. All you coffee lovers, gather around. Let’s take a good look at the Singer Reimagined Flytrack Barista!Almost two years ago now, Singer introduced its Flytrack collection. It consisted of three watches that featured a simplified design and movement. Well, simplified in c...
Ideal Size For A Watch Collection: 1, 3, 6, Or All Of Them?
The shift from watch enthusiast to watch collector is a slippery slope. Even the terminology poses problems since some people with many watches don’t consider themselves collectors. Also, in some cases, arriving at owning just one watch takes years of collecting - and then de-collecting. For many playing the game, though, there’s an ideal collection in the back of the mind. Of course, that includes certain watches on a constantly shifting wishlist. But the ideal size of a watch collection is also an important consideration. How many watches you own - or aspire to own - can say a lot about your habits and even your personality.I’m not a psychoanalyst. Freud and Jung could do...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar In Blue
Last week, watch media was saturated with news from Geneva Watch Days, and I was left impressed. But what struck me was how important this mainly independent and unstructured fair has become. To me, the biggest indicator was a few studiously timed releases from brands that were not part of the Bvlgari-led group. Said releases included a rich blue version of the Royal Oak. Word on the street was that this AP was initially leaked, though the timing seemed a tad too perfect for that. And the new AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is just too blue for its own good.Does Avatar blue take the hype-led popularity of the Royal Oak to a new level, or is this blue a color too far into the world of casual ...
Hands-On With The New Tudor Pelagos 39
You've all certainly already heard about the new Tudor Pelagos 39. It kind of stole the show last week while the watch world's media gathered in and around the Beau Rivage for Geneva Watch Days. The new Pelagos came as a surprise but a logical follow-up to Tudor's last two like-sized releases. It seems that no matter what it does, the brand manages to get people either excited or riled up. But an emotional response to a watch release can only be a good thing. It's certainly better than no reaction at all. That’s especially true in a world so driven by emotions because, in the end, it's just as much about the watch as how it makes you feel. That said, let's first talk a little bit about...
#TBT Car Time Travel With The St. Blaise Alertic Key-Watch
Here we have another dubious but amusing and probably short-lived patented watch that I hadn’t heard of before. The St. Blaise Alertic Key-Watch from 1955 can’t be attached to thicker keys from the ’70s on, but otherwise, it seems quite functional.First of all, and most importantly, it’s romantic. If I had a 1940s or 1950s classic car, I can vividly see myself using it. And I wouldn’t be afraid that it could collect many scratches and eventually break. Sadly, my oldest cars are from the 1970s, and I can’t attach the St. Blaise Alertic Key-Watch to any of their keys. Well, after holding the #TBT torch for about five years now, you can already suspect that i...
Folding Clasps: What Makes One Great?
Clasps have a massive impact on both the aesthetic and wearing comfort of a watch. Somehow, even in 2023, not all watch brands seem to have mastered the folding clasp. Time to have a closer look at what makes a good folding clasp. What great examples can we find, and what poor examples do we just have to mention?Just to keep things manageable, I will limit myself to clasps on bracelets. If you would like me to do the same for clasps on straps, let me know in the comments below.The simplest early folding claspsThe simple single-sided folding clasp has been around almost as long as the watch bracelet itself. The watch bracelet became common from the 1930s onwards when Gay Frres started to sup...
Chronoswiss Introduces The Stainless Steel Delphis Venture
I have always enjoyed the classic Chronoswiss watches. When I got seriously into watches in the early 2000s, I was quickly drawn to the unique style of the Kairos, Regulateur, and Delphis. The Chronoswiss Delphis has always been a personal favorite from those days. Over time, Chronoswiss changed a lot. The brand currently creates watches that fuse the classic Chronoswiss style with new materials, vibrant colors, and remarkable movements. The latest addition to the brand’s extensive lineup is the Delphis Venture. This watch combines the classic Delphis style I love so much with a spectacular dial. It’s a great follow-up to the 18K red gold Delphis Oracle that was released during W...
NEW: Blancpain Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms
Surprise, surprise: the much-anticipated Blancpain Swatch collaboration gets its big reveal a few days early! And here we thought we’d all have to wait until September 9th to get the official word on these watches. Well, the joke’s on us! Meet the highly anticipated Blancpain Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection. With these five new models, partners Swatch and Blancpain bring a vibrant and accessible twist to a legendary dive watch. Let’s “sea” if they can “slug” it out of the park!Now, don’t let the homophone, misplaced baseball metaphor, and eye-roll-inducing pun confuse you. These watches are all about paying tribute to EarthR...