Delma's New Quattro Is A Dive Watch With A Twist
Professional dive watches are ten a penny these days. With dive watch history spanning over half a century, it’s difficult for brands to offer something new in the field. Thinking about genuinely useful features for active divers is more than simply bumping the water resistance and adding a helium escape valve. While Delma’s new Quattro covers you with both of those features, the ingenuity of an additional feature makes it worth a look for professional and recreational divers alike. Yes, it has 500m of water resistance and the obligatory HEV, but this watch offers more than many comparable pieces.What is this new and ingenuous feature I’m speaking of? Well, it’s remar...
Now's The Time To Buy A Vintage Omega Speedmaster Pro
We're not all lucky enough to have been able to buy the watches we wanted 20 years (or longer) ago. Everything has become much more expensive, not only watches, of course. But what if you want to own a vintage Omega Speedmaster today?There's good news and bad news. Let's start with the bad news. Any Speedmaster with caliber 321 is, in collector's condition, priced above $10,000. Even the last generation (reference 145.012-67) now commands a five-digit price. It's a pity because a vintage caliber-321-powered Omega Speedmaster (Professional) from the 1960s was, at least to purists, the watch that went to the Moon. For a long time, considering its historical significance, it was also an incredi...
The New M.A.D.1 Green: Taking A Democratic Approach
I love the unpredictable output of Max Busser and Friends with their M.A.D. (acronym pun intended) timepieces. That last word is one I’d like to avoid as I find it too vague, too pompous even. But anything emanating from the M.A.D. house is pretty far from a mere wristwatch. This, of course, also includes the new M.A.D.1 Green.This year, I had the joy of attending Geneva Watch Days, and the large suite of Max Busser and his friendly team is always a favorite. Sure, they didn’t have the Pandamonium piece to show me, but I finally got my hands on the magnanimously priced upside-down (and sideways) M.A.D.1 Green. I say “finally” because while this is a new color, it is t...
Hands-On: Cedric Bellon CB01 GMT Sustainability King
Some brands fit their watches with a dial made out of recycled plastics. Others combine a watch with a strap made out of old fishing nets. These, among other things, are all initiatives to make watches feel more sustainable. Nowadays, sustainability is a feature that contributes positively to the value of a watch. But what would happen if sustainability weren’t just a bonus feature? What if it were an integral part of the design process? Well, come take a look at how Cedric Bellon, a true advocate of sustainability himself, tried to make one of the most sustainable watches out there. This is the CB01 GMT NK90 COSC Chronometer.Cedric Bellon is a watch designer who has worked with big br...
Tick, Tick, Tick With Quartz Watches
We’re back with an electrifying episode of Fratello On Air. Balazs is on the mend, and we’ve decided to have a go at quartz watches. Yes, we realize that some of our listeners may not feel any love for these battery-powered beasts. Nevertheless, we’ve come up with a quartet of interesting pieces. Oh, and we will, of course, touch upon the recent “SwatchPain.”...
How Watches Work: Antireflective Coatings
In the ornate corridors of horology, every tiny detail can sway our perceptions and experiences. From the rhythmic cadence of a tourbillon to the tactile feel of a bezel, every element and each nuance matters. Among these nuances, the unassuming crystal plays a pivotal role. It acts as a window into the watch, allowing us to read the time while protecting the delicate mechanics within. But as with any window, it can be clouded by the interruptions of glare and reflection. Enter the unsung hero for watch photographers worldwide - antireflective (AR) coatings. This sophisticated technology breathes life into the crystal, minimizing glare and allowing unfettered visibility and legibility.Delvin...
Hands-On: New Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Models
As of today, Seiko's Presage collection has three new models to underline the art of dial-making. The brand has added two urushi (Japanese for “lacquer”) dials and one enamel dial to the Presage Craftsmanship Series. Unlike many other brands, Seiko likes to share the names of the artisans behind new creations. The enamel dial has been done by Seiko's master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, while the the urushi dials have been produced by lacquer master Isshu Tamura and his team.Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB403, SPB405, and SPB407We received all of these new Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series models for closer inspection. All three watches represent traditional Ja...
#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed
An opisometer is a small instrument with a tiny gear wheel integrated into its edge that you run along a surface to measure the length of curved lines on topographic maps, charts, schemes, and plans. It’s also called a map measurer, meilograph, or curvimeter, and believe it or not, someone made it into a watch complication. Meet the Dulux Curvimetre.It has been three years since I first learned about the Dulux Curvimetre from Sandy, my watch-collecting friend from Switzerland. Since I introduced her eclectic collection to Fratello readers here, she politely declined my two or three offers to buy her Curvimetre. Well, that didn’t surprise me, but about once a year, I tried to ask ...
The New Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000
The Gumball 3000 kicks off on September 14th in Saigon and culminates in Singapore on September 22nd. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the rally-style event that blends exotic cars, celebrities, and five-star treatment, and the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 is the official watch for the event. If participants don’t purchase all of the 150 pieces, enthusiasts will get a chance.I’ve never attended a Gumball 3000, but because English entrepreneur Maximillion Cooper founded the event, maybe I’ll get my chance if it returns to London. The event features approximately 120 cars and a mix of first-timers and alumni. Exotic cars and their drivers complete a 3,000-mile jo...
Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300
As I write the first sentence of this article, summer has left us for this year. Here in the Netherlands, it’s the first of a seemingly long streak of days below 20 Celsius or 68 Fahrenheit. It is just as much a psychological adjustment as an actual meteorological one. As the sunlight changes, leaves start falling off the trees, and light, airy clothes are replaced by warmer attire to suit the lower temperatures, the mind also resigns itself to the colder months. But in this changing of seasons, there is always this longing for a longer summer. I’ll try to hold on to the warmer days for a bit by strapping the Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT 300 to my wrist. Will this colorful ...
Accessible Flyback Chronographs Well Under $10K
The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and uber-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Sohne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs.In 2024, we have seen new versions of Swiss-powered flyback chronographs for less than $3,000, which would have been hard to find only a couple of years ago. There is an avionic story behind the magical simultaneous reset/restart, and thanks to companies like Sellita and La Joux-Perret, Swiss top-tier stopwatch functionality has ...
The Tourbillon: Enigma Of The Watch World
Just the other day, I’ve been contacted by Nigel Brown of the HumansInvent website. HumansInvent did a very nice feature on tourbillons and discusses the use or benefit of this complication. HumansInvent performed a bit of research and asked several subject matter experts whether a tourbillon is actually useful for a timepiece or whether it is just to show-off the skills of a (master) watchmaker.Personally, I love the tourbillon complication in a mechanical watch, especially ever since I got a free-of-charge class on tourbillons by Bernhard Lederer (BLU) during one of the BaselWorld shows. On the other hand, I firmly believe that the main reason for the use of a tourbillon is to demons...
Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Review
Arnold & Son was one of the biggest surprised for me at this year’s Baselworld. The timepieces showcased to us by one of their master watchmakers were both from Arnold & Son’s Instrument and Royal collection. Let us start by showing you the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon timepieces from the Royal collection. In this article, we feature both the blue guilloche dial version in red gold as well as the silver guilloche dial in stainless steel. That’s right, this watch will also be available in stainless steel. Last but not least, there is a red gold version of the HM Perpetual Moon timepiece with a beautiful cream coloured dial with a translucent blue lacquered guil...
Watch Strap Review Kastantona Strap
We love our watches there's no doubt about that. That's why you're here, right? There are all those other things surrounding them though; watch winders, watch rolls, tools perhaps but most importantly straps. No decent watch site can function without a strap review. That was in my head when I came up with this idea and presented it to RJ. Nevertheless we gave it a twist. We would like to introduce some of the lesser known craftsmen to the wider audience. People whose work we find interesting or out of the ordinary. Who most of the time hand make their products at home or workshop, educate themselves and improve their technique so when their product reaches you and you put it on the?timepiece...
Speedy Tuesday Rare Speedmaster Michael Schumacher
Before Formula 1 driver Michael Schumacher switched to Audemars Piguet, he was Omega ambassador since 1995. Omega honored him with many pieces, starting in 1996 with a Speedmaster Reduced model. These models came in different colors. Below is the yellow version we covered earlier.Michael SchumacherSchumacher was active in Formula 1 from 1991 till 2006 and returned in 2010 to be active till 2012. He became World Champion F1 driver 7 times. End of 2013, he had a nearly fatal accident during a ski trip in France. He has been released from the hospital since 2 years to focus on revalidation at home. It has become relatively silent around Michael Schumacher since then.Omega Speedmaster Michael Sc...
In Detail Baume & Mercier Clifton Club
I have always been drawn to double brand names on a dial. Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe and so on. Not because of the importance of a brand or about recognition, but I just like a long written double name. The typography is of importance here of course, as well is the positioning of the name. Unfortunately, as names did became more important, brands tend to print (or apply) them in a larger – or even more bold – font than they did before. A good example is Audemars Piguet, or even Patek Philippe. I think Baume & Mercier also increased the font size a tad bit over the years. In my opinion it isn’t necessary, but who am I. I assume the marketing ge...
#TBT Seiko H558 Arnie One Serious Diver
With today's look at the Seiko H558 Arnie, we find ourselves heading down a precarious path into the realm of the celebrity watch. Don't worry, we'll speak a little about the man this watch takes its name from, but we'll spend more time on why this product of the 1980's deserves more recognition aside from its relation to a film star and politician. Oh, and lest I forget, this watch falls under the Tuna category and while I stated that we were almost complete on cataloguing those great watches, a return to the subject with the H558 is a real case of I'll be back. You knew that was comingSteve McQueen, Clint Eastwood, astronauts, Jochen & Nina Rindt: the list of celebrities who now have a...
Omega European Masters 2018 Won By Matthew Fitzpatrick
Golf and watches go together very well. Although there are only very few golf players who actually wear a watch during the game itself, the association is clear. Precision, prestige and enjoying the finer things in life. Last weekend was the final of the Omega European Masters 2018 in Crans Montana, Switzerland. A tournament that has been around since 1923 and title sponsored by Omega since 2001.Omega European Masters 2018On the golf course in Crans Montana, you will find the most beautiful scenery you can wish for. The golf club Crans-sur-Sierre has a length of over 6200 meters and is located at an altitude of approximately 1500 meters. Walking this legendary course will treat you with some...
Yema Speedgraf A hands-on review with the reissue!
We are proud that the Fratello team was chosen to be the first to lay hands on a Yema Speedgraf prototype that goes on pre-sale next Friday!I always find an unusual way of introducing my wife to a new watch that occupies (or is about to occupy) our household. Whether for a week or forever. Anyway, the evening when I unboxed the Yema Speedgraf prototype stamped 0000, we went for dinner to town. Before we left the apartment, I stood in front of my wife, looking straight to her eyes. I gave her a serious, slightly worried face, slowly raised my hand and put it on her shoulder. As dramatic as I could make it sound, I asked my wife: “Do you know, what the biggest issue is in the life of a w...
Time And Date Fortis Flieger Watch Comes In Both 39mm And 41mm
The F-43 has returned to base. Why? Because it’s come home to welcome the brand’s newest recruit to an evergrowing aerial squadron. The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax was well-received, lining the nest for its smaller, but no less impressive brother. For quite some time, Fortis fans have been calling for something a little smaller, a little lighter on the wrist, and a little bit special. With the launch of the time and date Fortis Flieger F-series in 41 and (a satisfying) 39mm, all three prayers have been answered.The Fortis Flieger family first emerged in 1987. Since then, subsequent models have followed the same code: Live simply; live well. The beauty of these Fortis watches is ...