Hands-On With The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Back in June, I wrote an introductory article for the new Breguet Marine models for 2020. Although technically not new models, the three new additions to the collection debuted a full metal bracelet. In my article, I expressed my appreciation for the engineering, the quality, and the finishing of the watches and especially the new bracelets. Fast forward a couple of months, and I had a chance to find out whether the watches and bracelets are as impressive as I had envisioned them being. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale.Before I started writing this article, I thought about how to make this work. The first thing that came to mind was a photo essay of Bert&...
Wrist Game or Crying Shame: IWC Aquatimer Cousteau Divers
Ahoy friends and all aboard for this week’s edition of Wrist Game or Crying Shame. We’ll take a look at the very first IWC Aquatimer Cousteau Divers. But first…Every time I try to have a little fun around here, you guys go and get all kinds of serious. And so it was with the Corum Bubble Shark Diver. You burst my bubble because this expressive diver sunk into the abyss with a 75% Crying Shame loss. Boo hoo! Staying on theme with the water ready, though, let’s see if you’ll turn a kinder eye to the IWC Aquatimer Cousteau Divers.Jacques Yves CousteauIf Richard Dawson were still alive and hosting one of my all-time favorite TV game shows, Family Feud, I’d try...
Wrist Game Or Crying Shame: Tudor Heritage Chrono M70330N
Wrist Game or Crying Shame is here again and it’s time to have a look at the Tudor Heritage Chrono. This is the watch that brought Tudor back in the game, but will you let it play? Before we answer that question…Last week, I showed you a discontinued delicacy with the Seiko Spring Drive Tuna. You gobbled up that ahi with a convincing 67% and hoisted it to a 67% Wrist Game win. This week, with the Tudor Heritage Chrono, we look at a watch that has just begun its second decade completely unchanged. Whether Tudor just plain forgot about this watch or if this watch soldiers on because it’s so good is a topic for another day. Today, we’re here to hear a little yarn from me...
Hot Take: The New Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope
Omega is surprising each and everyone with the new Speedmaster Chronoscope collection, and it’s not even a (Speedy) Tuesday. It is also the introduction of a new movement for the Speedmaster, caliber 9908. A hand-wound two-register movement that has been Master Chronometer certified.The first thing to notice about this new 43mm Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope are the scales on the dial and the applied Arabic numerals. We have two of the new models here, the silver dialed reference 329.30.43.51.02.001 and the blue dial reference 329.30.43.51.03.001. Chronoscope is not a new name indeed, in case it sounds familiar to you. Omega has used it before, for its De Ville collection. Fun fact: Buz...
Wrist Game Or Crying Shame: Tudor Heritage Chrono M70330N
Wrist Game or Crying Shame is here again and it’s time to have a look at the Tudor Heritage Chrono. This is the watch that brought Tudor back in the game, but will you let it play? Before we answer that question…Last week, I showed you a discontinued delicacy with the Seiko Spring Drive Tuna. You gobbled up that ahi with a convincing 67% and hoisted it to a 67% Wrist Game win. This week, with the Tudor Heritage Chrono, we look at a watch that has just begun its second decade completely unchanged. Whether Tudor just plain forgot about this watch or if this watch soldiers on because it’s so good is a topic for another day. Today, we’re here to hear a little yarn from me...
Le Regulateur Louis Erard atelier o? Tells The Story Of Time (2021)
One of the best watches of this year comes courtesy of Louis Erard. Or better, series of watches. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein is the perfect example of how a collaboration between two brands can lead to spectacular results. Fresh of the success of that partnership, Louis Erard today introduces the next collaboration timepiece. Together with atelier o?? the brand has developed the Le Regulateur Louis Erard x atelier o?. This conceptual timepiece takes Louis Erard’s collaboration series to the next level.The challenge with conceptual timepieces is how to integrate a concept into a practical instrument like a wristwatch? That is why many of the conceptual timepieces w...
Fratello NOMOS Glashutte Zurich Weltzeit "The Hague" LE (2021)
Grab a coffee and take a seat. This is an epic tale of love and lubrication…There is a term in the video gaming world that I’ve hijacked for my own use: completionist. While my most avid period of gaming waned with Bubsy the Bobcat’s popularity, I’ve rarely come across a better description of my character. Apparently, a completionist relishes completing every minute aspect of a computer game. I suppose that means visiting every town on the map, talking to all interactive characters, collecting all the jelly beans, or whatever the tasks may be. In real life, taking the same habits to the extreme would be, shall we say, a bit odd, but I must admit my experience with NOM...
Diving Deep Into Water Resistance: How Is It Achieved?
Whether you take your watch diving or you just want to navigate an unexpected rainshower free of worry, water resistance is a key trait for a watch. Moisture is arguably a watch movement's biggest nemesis, regardless of whether that movement is mechanical or quartz. Keeping the moisture out is a top priority for watch designers, manufacturers, and watchmakers. The degree to which they succeed is expressed through depth ratings in atmospheres or meters. And we watch geeks love to compare scores. “Watch A has 100 meters of WR, and watch B can survive 500 meters”. But the question arises: what does it take to reach such numbers? What compromises do designers face when they aim for a...
New: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Editions
The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series is known for beautiful dials inspired by signature drinks at the Star Bar in the heart of Ginza. Working with award-winning bartender Hisashi Kishi, the dials of the new Cocktail Time Star Bar limited editions evoke the experience of a finely crafted cocktail. The elegant case, sharp indices, and cut-out dial speak to the discerning tastes of those who frequent the Star Bar. Let's see if the watches go down as smoothly as the beverages that inspire them.The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has been with us for several years now. I like to envision each new iteration as building out the menu at Seiko's very own Star Bar. Much like the favorites at ...
Everyone Needs One Of These Iconic Dress Watches
This week we continue our little series of essential watches within a certain style. The last two articles about iconic chronographs and dive watches sparked a whole lot of discussion among you, the Fratelli, so we’re moving on to dress watches today. While dress watches are certainly not the most popular amongst watch fans, they hold a certain venerable place in our beloved watch universe. A dress watch is an appropriate timepiece for a special occasion or a classy statement that fits a great and stylish outfit. Either way, it’s time to look at eight of the most iconic dress watches that we think should be part of any watch collection.Can you quickly come up with a list of eight...
Just Out: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape Sylt Edition
Thanks to Blancpain, this past week, I spent a few days on the island of Sylt in northern Germany, close to the Danish border. I enjoyed the scenery and the beautiful weather, but we were on a mission. The Swiss maison has allied itself with local environmental projects to protect the biosphere on the North Sea. To do that, Blancpain has launched the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape Sylt Edition, a striking olive-green timepiece in a titanium case. Furthermore, a portion of the sales price will go towards Blancpain’s contribution to the cause.A limited edition of only 25 pieces, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape Sylt Edition is an exclusive timepiece. This is no surprise as Blancpain only...
IWC Big Pilot's Watch AMG G 63 Armor Gold And CMC
Many people dream of owning a Porsche or Ferrari, and I did too as a kid. But for many years now, it has been the G-Class (or G-Wagon) that I consider my absolute dream car. It doesn't have to be a Mercedes-AMG G 63 (AMG); I will also settle for a G 500. But the latter will already set you back $230,000 here in the Netherlands, where car prices are absurdly high due to taxes. The G 63 will increase the outlay to $300,357. Of that amount, we’d pay $144,557 in taxes.Mercedes-AMG G 63 Grand Edition - Image: Mercedes-AMGMercedes-AMG G 63 IWC Big Pilot’s WatchMercedes told me that these cars can't be ordered anymore as a new (electric?) version is expected in 2024. That said, the pric...
Hands-On: The Vario 1945 D12
We all know about the Dirty Dozen, the mil-spec group of watches produced in 1945, many of which never saw combat. While collectors scour online auctions to find vintage examples in good condition, we humble watch enthusiasts are presented with a few modern options. First is the Timor Heritage Field WWW, which is perhaps the most legitimate heir to the original Dirty Dozen. Then there’s Vertex - another one of the 12 - that took the path of modernizing the original with the M100A. While the Timor retails for $955 and the Vertex for just under $2,100, there's plenty of space in the middle for other modern interpretations that also are more affordable. These range from Christopher Ward's...
Meet The Longines Mini DolceVita On A Brick-Style Bracelet
About 100 years ago, Longines started to design and produce rectangular watches in the popular Art Deco style. In 1997, Longines revamped a rectangular watch from its 1927 collection and called it the DolceVita. However, it was a modern interpretation of the original 1920s model. Today, Longines introduces the Mini DolceVita, which has even more elements of those nearly century-old watches.Longines watch from 1925 - Image: LonginesLongines Mini DolceVita brick-style braceletI am a sucker for nice bracelets, and that's exactly what sparked my interest in this new Longines Mini DolceVita. Whereas the stainless steel link bracelet of the 1997 DolceVita model had little to do with the elegance o...
The IWC Designer Who Fought Nazis Above Switzerland
This feature was researched with the help of Nic Barnes, who is a pilot, watch enthusiast, and occasional contributor for Watches of Espionage. Our thanks to the Schaffhausen City Archive and Schaffhauser Magazine for providing materials that greatly contributed to our research for this story. It is one about a remarkable man with connections to IWC Schaffhausen who took part in a significant air battle over Switzerland in June 1940.This is a story about air battles over Switzerland at a moment when Nazi Germany seemed unbeatable. We will get to that tale shortly, but first, allow me to provide some context. Many of you may know that I have a soft spot for IWC Schaffhausen. A member of my fa...
New: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 "Chameleon" Models
Call me old-fashioned, sentimental, or a man of great musical taste. In any case, I think the 1965 song “What the World Needs Now Is Love” written by Hal David and Burt Bacharach is a true gem. Some might consider the song a bit preachy, but people need to be preached to occasionally. Every time Tissot preaches about the magnificence of the PRX, it doesn't give unwanted moral advice on watches; on the contrary, the brand seems to be preaching to the choir. Since the model's debut, it has stormed to the top, and now the collection consists of no fewer than 58 references. That includes two Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Chameleon models with gradient dials.Sometimes, you don't know what ...
Hands-On: The 35mm Raymond Weil Millesime
Over the past year, we’ve grown quite fond of Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection. Lex first went hands-on with the GPHG-winning 39.5mm version. Then, Thomas took a few other variations for a spin. Those experiences led them to conclude that the Millesime collection is very modern and refined. Today, I’m looking at a few of the brand’s new 35mm additions to the collection. Those include new dial colors, a “new” moonphase complication, and a version treated with rose gold PVD. Let’s check out these new versions of the 35mm Raymond Weil Millesime.Because of its sector dial, Thomas compared the Millesime to some watches from brands like Longines and Jae...
Hands-On: The New White Dial Hamilton Khaki Field Murph
One of Hamilton’s biggest successes of recent years is the Khaki Field Murph. The watch became a fan favorite after it played a pivotal role in the 2014 blockbuster Interstellar. Then, in 2019, the Murph was released to the public in a 42mm version. Despite its great commercial success, most watch fans would have loved a smaller version of the watch. Hamilton made fans happy three years later by introducing a 38mm model, which showed that the design worked well in both sizes. But how would a version with a white dial be? I had the chance to find out in a hands-on experience with the new white-dial Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm.As die-hard movie fans will tell you, a modern remake of ...
Aus der Reihe...
German Krimis (detective series) on the television always drew (& draw) my attention. I can’t exactly explain why, but it probably has something to do that I grew up near the German border so the surroundings/environment is very recognizable. Germany always had an advance on Dutch (not to confuse with Deutsch) television, they (probably) have more money to produce decent and professional TV series. A few weeks back I bought this DVD set of Derrick (Aus der Reihe) tv-series. Derrick was aired during 1974 – 1998 and was quite populair in The Netherlands. The two biggest roles were those of Stephan Derrick and Harry Klein, both detectives in Muenchen (Munich). Probably due to no...
Omega DeVille Co-Axial Chronoscope A Great Watch That Depreciated Already In The Catalogue
Some collectors or watch afficionados will tell you that the only good Omega watches are vintage Omega watches. In my opinion, they do have a point in terms of looks and value. Vintage Omega watches are the rising stars on watch auctions and who doesn’t want to own a very early Speedmaster?As for the modern Omega watches, a lot of eyebrows are being frowned, but the fact that Omega is stepping up the ladder can’t be denied. Creating their own in-house movements (again), making watches with complications and spending huge amounts of money on their marketing machine. They want to be – or perhaps are already – in the league where they wanted to be for a long time, steppe...