New Release: Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Paraiba
Chronoswiss kicks off its Watches and Wonders showing with the new Open Gear ReSec Paraiba, a limited edition model with a dramatic handmade guilloche dial.Whenever I see a new Chronoswiss, I must admit that two distinct memories come to mind. Firstly, I think about seeing Chronoswiss watches from the ’90s with their massive crowns and how my Dad almost bought one. My next and final recollection is far more recent. I return to recent Baselworld events, seeing the watches, and recall the evening Chronoswiss cocktail event. While those things are in the past, one thing continues on and that’s Chronoswiss and some mighty fine looking watches. Today, that continues with the new Open ...
Vacheron Constantin And Its New Historiques American 1921
Sure, the new Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 watches mark the 100th anniversary of a watch nicknamed American 1921, so it’s time to welcome another version of VC’s classic driver’s watch to the paddock, this time in ice-cold platinum… But will it be a success 100 years after it first saw the light of day??The very first wristwatch was reputedly invented in 1868 but it looked completely different from what we are used to now. I always felt we live in times in which our choices depend so much on the prevailing trends, but also on the standards and pressures others put on us. I really wish people would make more diverse choices in terms of fashion, but als...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
One of the exciting experiences during watch fairs is the encounter with rare super complication watches. A few brands demonstrate what they are capable of continuously stretching the limits of what is considered possible in watchmaking. In 2003 Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the first model of their Hybris Mechanica family. Since then, the brand adds one spectacular family member after another. Each new model is not just a modification of the previous one but a completely new approach, new design, and new movement. This year, too, Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn’t disappoint us: the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is the brand’s new mind-blowing creation.As you probably know, the concep...
Watches & Wonders 2021: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s original 1931 reversible case served to protect the fragile glass on the dial side by flipping the case on the wrist. With the steel case-back facing up, the glass beneath was less prone to damage. The necessity for this design was born out of British polo players wanting to track time without damaging the crystal during polo matches in post-war India. It’s a well-known legend, but these days sapphire crystal has become strong enough to withstand whatever life throws at it. The scratch resistance of sapphire is so much that many of JLC’s Reverso collection have sapphire displays on both sides yet retain the iconic reversing case.New for 2021 is the Jaeger...
Watches & Wonders 2021: Cartier And Its New Haute Joaillerie Watches
For over the last 170 years Cartier has influenced the fine jewelry styles as well as the watch industry. Some of Cartier's most iconic pieces of jewelry and watches resemble the elegant and powerful panther. The Panthre motif was Jeanne Toussaint's excellent idea. Back in those days, Toussaint, as Head of Creation at Cartier, designed the Panthre wristwatch with wildcat print made of gold and black enamel. Today the French Maison shares some new Haute Joaillerie releases that refer to its wild heritage.The Libre collection focuses on some of the most exotic shapes the French brand has ever conceived. The first highly jeweled creation is the Baignoire. On Fratello, we’re more than us...
Discover The New Cartier Cloche de Cartier Prive Collection.
In 1920, Cartier released a bell-shaped watch called Cloche de Cartier. It was original yet a bit quirky. The Cartier Prive collection is growing with new models inspired by this asymmetrical watch.?The Prive collection is a line that draws attention to the Cartier’s much-vaunted past. Last year the French Maison presented the Tank Asymetrique, today we can get acquainted with the renewed Cloche de Cartier.The StoryCartier is a brand well-known for weird shapes. As we can see, this collection is very specific but intensely characterful as a result. As a luxury market lover, I am full of admiration for brands that make bold moves such as this. The Prive line is neither easily digestible...
The Dark Motif Of The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem
Known for its streetwear credentials and monogram bags, Louis Vuitton is known for being ahead of the curve, and it has been since its foundation in 1854. With its new Tambour Carpe Diem watch, Louis Vuitton continues to make a bold statement.The Calaveras motif has become a popular contemporary motif in art, design, and fashion. Previous years showed it is no different with watches. This year the French luxury Maison brings to the table the new highly complicated timepiece - the Tambour Carpe Diem. Closely related to the Memento Mori concept, the dial is a symbolic reminder of the transitoriness of life. I must confess I love how wild Louis Vuitton went to execute this concept.?The Dark Sid...
IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Reference IW388103
Once upon a time, it was easy to get brands’ new pieces in your hands on the day of their release. We used to have physical fairs to enjoy, but the global pandemic has put paid to that for many of us. Nowadays, seeing novelties on or before release is very difficult so we were thrilled when IWC made a special effort to send us the Chrono 41 model so we could put it through its paces in advance of its launch today.The new IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 may look familiar but is actually a brand new fusion of design, movement, and case size. Visually, it most recalls the IWC reference IW377714 (Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Le Petit Prince), bringing the blue sun-ray dial and ...
Watches & Wonders 2021: Cartier Tank Must Is Back!
As one of the most recognizable luxury watches, the Cartier Tank's sleek design adorns the wrists of many of this French Maison’s followers. Today, Cartier revealed the return of the legend - let's give a warm welcome to the Cartier Tank Must!In the 1970s, Cartier created a new line of watches: Must de Cartier. The original Must was controversial yet legendary. While its form paid homage to the original Tank Louis Cartier, the material used for the case and bracelet sent shockwaves through the industry, attracting a whole new clientele to the brand’s door. Why? For the first time ever, Cartier did not use precious metals for the case. The Must de Cartier was an affordable turning...
Watches & Wonders 2021: New Santos de Cartier And Santos-Dumont
Setting quite substantial watches with diamonds is always a bold idea. The square shape, solid bracelet, and prominent steel screws are what define the Santos de Cartier. I have this feeling that to make the entire design even more outstanding only diamonds were missing. That was, of course, until now…New Models From The Santos de Cartier CollectionThe French brand expands its Santos collection with three new timepieces. However, the pure asceticism of the case is gone, usurped instead by a glittering case encrusted with 206 brilliant-cut diamonds. The beautifully shaped concept comes in three different variations.The first one, my favorite, a stainless steel watch with a steel sun-bru...
Pasha de Cartier Chronograph And The 30mm Women's Version
When, last year, Cartier announced the reintroduction of its Pasha collection, it was something of a special treat for the enthusiast. During the virtual Watches & Wonders 2021, the French brand has launched new variations: the 41 Pasha de Cartier Chronograph and the 30mm women's version. For those who missed the sporty Chronograph, or wanted to get a smaller version, it's a real treat!?Well-known for its oval-shaped case, the 41mm Pasha de Cartier Chronograph is back. This time, however, Gerald Genta's design gets a little update. Before we dig into that, let’s focus first on what remains unchanged. The two cabochon-topped pushers have the same size. Also, the dial features the sa...
Watches & Wonders 2021: Piaget Releases New Novelties Precious Metal Polo Skeletons And A New Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Watches & Wonders is here, and as you may have seen, it has announced itself this morning with a glut of new releases from a multitude of brands. It may take you a while to get through all of the new release articles here on Fratello, but don’t skip by this one, as Piaget’s Novelties are gold! Yes, I entirely meant that terrible pun, and I stand by it.Piaget has given us new takes on both the Polo Skeleton and the award-winning Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Both are excellent models, tailored for the discerning collector. Still, both have been given lockdown facelifts which elevate them for a “new year, new me” attitude.Piaget Polo SkeletonThat was a mouthful to say...
Watches & Wonders 2021: Panerai Releases Ten Novelties
New watch releases are buses. You wait around for ages with no luck, and then you get ten all at once. OK, the saying is slightly different from that, but in Panerai’s world, it’s not. The brand has indeed just dropped ten new watches. Those ten watches are broken down into six different model families. Let’s take a quick look at them all!Panerai?Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225First up, we have some tasty newness from Panerai‘s LAB-ID range, now with an eco twist. May I introduce you to the new Submersible eLAB-ID PAM01225. The PAM 01225 contains the highest percentage of recycled materials ever in a watch. This positions Panerai at the forefront of the movement towards ...
#TBT Gallet Multichron Yachting The First Owner's Story
To wear a special yachting chronograph wristwatch in the ’60s was like driving a Porsche 911. We take a wristwatch for granted today, but back then, racers used mostly stopwatches hanging on a cord around their necks. “Other people often wanted to see my Gallet Multichron Yachting working and try it. They could not believe it was waterproof,” says Roger Witts, an original owner, who sailed thousands of times with Gallet on his wrist. It never failed him.Finding a black-dialed Gallet Multichron Yachting is not easy. It’s a collector’s dream to get it directly from the hands of an original owner, for whom it was a priceless tool during dinghy races and practices i...
Fratello Editors' Picks From Watches And Wonders 2022
Picking your favorite watch from a show like Watches And Wonders is something that you simply cannot rush. It's kind of like making a perfect cup of tea. Your head is a teapot, freshly filled with boiling water. The releases are the tea, which is immersed in the water and must be allowed enough time to fully steep before a perfectly brewed cup can be poured out. If you pour too soon, the tea will be too light, flavorless, and diluted. And if you haven't had time to see everything and let it sink in, your opinion, like the tea, will be incomplete. After a couple of days of mulling over everything we saw, the team comes together to share our picks. And after only a couple of rounds of Rock Pap...
Two-Piece NATO Straps: The NATO Looks, Without The NATO Bulk!
I remember getting my Seiko SPB143J1 about two years ago. Its well-balanced design, brushed steel bezel insert, and gray sunburst dial really spoke to me. But I knew it was going to be a chunky and heavy watch, especially on the bracelet. So by the time it arrived, I had already gotten some straps for it. I got myself some single-pass NATOs and a Tropic strap, but the best match for me was a green/gray two-piece NATO I got from Esprit NATO. I have since gotten rid of the SPB143J1, but I’m still enjoying the strap I got for it!I’m not entirely sure how I ended up on the Esprit NATO website. It’s a company operating out of Paris that offers the usual leather, nylon, and rubbe...
Fratello's Top 5 Tudor Black Bay References Ever
Another Friday, another Top 5! In this series, we take one classic watch and choose our five favorite references ever produced. Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things. Though there may be some overlap, it's not a question of which references are the most collectible or of the highest value on the market. The fifth pick is our Fratello favorite that considers the current market price and collectability, potentially making it a sleeper reference. As such, the last pick could be described as our wild card. This week, we’ll take a look at the Tudor Black Bay. More specifically, Black Bay divers. What are the b...
Watches And Wonders: The Ones That Got Away A Top 5
Watches and Wonders this year was a striking return to form and a glorious spectacle for the senses. It was like the pandemic never happened, and here I was stuck at home in the never-ending winter of the Nordics. To be honest, I'm glad in a way because most of my favorites were way above my pay grade, even if I sold all of my collection to fund them. But that's what it's all about, isn't it? As usual, my favorites were the quirky-cool ones, the ones that got away.We exhaustively covered all the major releases here, but plenty of watches always go under the radar or don't get the attention they deserve. I've always got a soft spot for the creative underdogs and the non-commercial pieces of b...
Can We Watch Geeks Be Force-Fed Collectibility?
Can watch brands force-feed us collectibility? It is a genuine question that emerged during our first editorial meeting after Watches and Wonders 2023. Many of my colleagues noticed how brands announced watches as for collectors. That may sound logical, but is it? Who determines whether a watch is collectible? And what does it say about current watch marketing that brands try to determine this for us?Let me come out and admit immediately that I do not have the answers to those questions. But in this thought piece, I will try to look at it from a few different angles. And I am very curious to see your thoughts on the matter in the comments section.Part of RJ’s beloved Speedy collectionW...
Minase's Masterpiece Akita Silver Filigree Unique Piece
All artisans draw inspiration from their environments, but Japanese craftspeople are particularly well known for this, as we witness in the exquisite creations of Minase. Launched in 2005 and named after its home village in Akita Prefecture, Minase offers handmade timepieces imbued with Japanese traditions. The independent brand demonstrates its horological pinnacle with the Masterpiece collection of highly technical artisan-crafted dials and cases. One of the Masterpiece options is the Akita Silver Filigree. Crafted in this time-honored native technique, here is an example of a bespoke dial framed within Minase's signature Five Windows case.From private label to own labelWhen a watchmaker a...