New: Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes & Monopoussoir Chronograph
Cartier is a brand that knows how to manage its hero designs. Few brands have as many iconic designs under their wings as the Parisian Maison. The Tortue is one that you may not be as familiar with as the Tank and the Santos. That could very well be because it hasn't been in Cartier's collection for a while now. Well, until today, that is!Join me for a first look at the 2024 Cartier Tortue lineup. There are five new references, consisting of three time-only models and two chronographs. All are part of the Cartier Prive collection. Unfortunately, though, this means they are limited to rather small quantities.Cartier Tortue Hours/MinutesFirst, we have three models named Tortue Hours/Minutes. W...
Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar might not even need a correction?in the year 4000 as it has yet to be decided whether that will be a leap year.IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar IW505701Also, due to clever engineering and simulation, the Eternal Calendar will only need a correction for its moonphase indicator after 45 mill...
The 2024 IWC Portugieser Updates: Slimmer Automatic 42 & More
You might have to look twice, but you're looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer. Some of those dials are in the new nature-inspired colors Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune. Selected Automatic 40 models show these new dial colors, just like three new versions of the Portugieser Chronograph.If you're wondering what evolution looks like in Schaffhausen, look no further than the new Portugieser Automatic...
Introducing: Bright Red Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz
It’s no secret that we are fans of the Tissot PRX here at Fratello. Multiple team members, including yours truly, own a PRX Powermatic 80, so we meet any new addition to the lineup with great interest. The latest expansion of the extensive PRX collection is a pair of red-dial versions of the PRX Quartz in 35mm and 40mm cases. We had a chance to see them up close and find out how these compare to the other models in the collection.Putting a Tissot PRX on my wrist is like coming home. I have had my black-dial version for three years at this point and still love it to bits. I might not wear it as religiously as I used to when I first bought it, but any time I do, it puts a smile on my fac...
Introducing: The Herms Arceau & Cut Le Temps Suspendu
Every year, in the months before Watches and Wonders, we receive a lot of press releases and watches up front. That way, we’re well prepared when the fair finally opens its doors. This time, we also asked Herms whether it would be possible to get a preview of what the brand was working on. However, the maison stayed suspiciously silent. Last year marked the introduction of the all-new Cut. While 2025 was a little less revolutionary, with the return of one of Herms’s signature complications and a cheeky horse, there’s certainly enough to talk about. Let’s take a look at the new Herms Arceau and Cut Le Temps Suspendu and the Arceau Rocabar de Rire.In 2011, Herms int...
Hands-On: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can't Get Enough. The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn't on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco beat, and chorus that chanted the title over and over again, annoyingly played on repeat in my head whatever I was doing. Depeche Mode created an earworm I only got rid of after way too long. AP has done the same. The brand from Le Brassus presented the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar during the event celebrating the 150th anniversary of the maison. I was there, and e...
A Panerai Roundup From Watches And Wonders 2025
Amid the flurry of news over the past week, it’s easy to miss some of the key releases at Watches and Wonders 2025. Today, we’ll recap Panerai’s latest introductions with a roundup of all the new models. It was a good year for the maker of dive-inspired watches!We always look forward to novelties from Panerai at Watches and Wonders. In the past, the brand brought loads of limited-edition models. That was a lot of fun, but for 2025, the focus was on updating a core collection. Of course, an upscale, complicated model debuted along with a wild table clock. Here’s our roundup of all the newest Panerai offerings.A roundup of all the watchesBefore we get into a roundup of ...
Reader's Story On The Ochs Und Junior Mese Watch
One of our readers and watch enthusiasts, Richard, went back from a small collection of watches to just one timepiece. In this story he tells you why he sold all of his other watches to have just one watch; the ochs und junior mese (note the lack of capitalization).My ochs und junior mese has been my daily watch for more than a year now. Time to write down some words about this very personal watch and a very personal watch company.It was somewhere in 2011 that I first came across watches from ochs und junior. I don't know exactly where, but what I do know is the model I liked best: the settimana junior. On the one hand I liked the design and also its weekday complication. On the other hand i...
Casio G-Shock GPW-1000RAF Hands-On Review
Casio with its G-Shock concept has over 30 years of history when it comes to toughness. In 1981 a team of only three members led by Kikuo Ibe was formed to produce a watch which could fulfil the Triple-10 concept; able to resist a 10 meter fall onto a hard surface, water resistant to 10 bar, 10 year battery life. In 1983 and over 200 prototypes later, Ibe’s team came with the first G-Shock, the DW-5000.Despite the enormous achievement it was in those days, when a watch was still considered a delicate instrument, G-Shock has evolved tremendously. The watch we’re reviewing here is one of G-Shock’s latest creations and is a very good example of the G-Shock evolution.The?Casio?...
Pinion Pure Bronze LE, 50 pieces only, hand winding 52Mondayz, week # 14
After a complicated week (click here for 52Mondayz week # 14) this week I needed something simple. Two bold clear hands, a thick crown suitable for manual winding, and a sturdy case – that was what I was looking for and found in the Pinion Pure Bronze LE.Pinion Pure Bronze LENo PaneraiOf course, I could have chosen a Panerai Luminor (which I most probably will do once in the future) however I was looking for something more special. As well, although appreciating Panerai’s patented crown construction, it’s not the easiest to operate on a daily basis to wind your watch. Simple is a bit equivalent to lazy for me as well.Only 50 of these bronze watches existThe Pinion Pure Bron...
Speedy Tuesday Three New Platinum Speedmaster Moonphase Watches
After Omega showed us the BaselWorld 2018 novelties that you’ve all seen by now, it was time for them to bring out the big guns and show three very exclusive Speedmaster Moonphase watches. In platinum.Weighing about half a kilogram each, these new platinum Speedmaster Moonphase models are not for the faint-hearted.For this week’s Speedy Tuesday installment, we take a look at the three new “Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonphase Platinum OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph Calibre 9905” or just “platinum Speedmaster Moonphase” watches. The official model name reveals a lot already, but nothing beats some proper images that our photographer Bert ‘Be...
Become Shareholder Of A Watch Brand Lebois & Co
After their successful relaunch of the Lebois & Co company and Avantgarde watches in 2014, the current founders feel it is time to take the next step: asking you to become a shareholder. With three produced models, mainly based on crowdfunding, there are three new models under development and Lebois & Co wants you as a shareholder.It is a clear sign that things become more serious at Lebois & Co. Moving into the direction of having shareholders on board, Lebois & Co also allow us to have peak into their future plans. Three new watches are being developed right now, a new Avantgarde Date, a vintage chronograph re-issue and a new chronometer certified watch. The chronograph mod...
Vertex The Real One of the Dirty Dozen'
For a nation with an indisputably important role in the history of horology, the British occupy just a small section of the modern market.At the very top end, Roger W. Smith continues the legacy of the late George Daniels from the Isle of Man base once used by the past master. In terms of mainstream visibility, it is Bremont that reigns supreme.Now, hold your horses. There is a relative newcomer that might be about to shake up the status quo. Relaunched in 2016 by the great-grandson of the original founder, Vertex is a truly English company. Their history stretches all the way back to 1912 when a young Claude Octavius Lyons founded his first company, known then as Dreadnought Watches.Having ...
Fratello On Air #14 Talking Online Watch Sales and Numbers With Chrono24 CEO Tim Stracke
Recently, Tim Stracke gave an interview on WatchPro, discussing the impact of Corona on the (online) watch sales. Sitting on a big pile of data, generated by the millions of users of the world’s largest watch market platform, Tim Stracke is the go-to place for the watch industry when it comes to numbers.In this 14th episode of Fratello on Air, I speak with Tim about Chrono24. We discuss why he purchased the platform back in 2010 and, of course, what he sees happening right now due to the corona crisis. Are sales going up, or down? Are people trying to get rid of their watches via Chrono24 or is the opposite happening? Tim gives us some very useful and clear insights on the state of the...
Glashutte Original Sixties and Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition 2020
Glashutte Original shows us that Sixties design is not just defined by quirky looks and bright colors. With the release of its new Sixties and Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition 2020, the Saxon brand shows us that sixties looks and smart color choices can lead to stunning results.Whenever we think of Sixties design, we tend to think of weird shapes and bright colors. Whether it’s clothing, furniture, or cars, those two characteristics seem to come back all the time when discussing designs from the sixties. Although it is hard to disagree with those observations, adding a “groovy!” or “Yeah baby!” to that and the tone almost starts to become unwantedly funny. Moc...
You Asked Us: Will Watches Become Obsolete?
It’s been a while, but our once-again regular column returns. In this space, we take-on readers’ questions about watches and give our honest answers. Some of the answers are based on facts, some on opinions, but all exist for the purpose of furthering the conversation. Please feel free to get in touch with your queries, and we’ll add as many as we can to the list!I’ve inherited a gem. There are very few formats that promise the same level of engagement that directly responding to questions does. And the best part? I am genuinely interested. We all are. That’s what makes writing about watches a fun profession. Every day I get to talk to like-minded people. And it...
Ressence Type 2N Night Blue Model Sees The Return Of E-Crown!
There aren't too many brands you could mistake Ressence for. That kind of genuine uniqueness is a very good thing in watchmaking. The only thing that is halfway irking about it is that one must describe the kind of uniqueness as genuine at all, such is the rampant overuse of that word. But Ressence deserves to have it applied to its creations as well as the ubiquitous respect of journalists and consumers the world over. Why? Because Ressence does something no other brand does. And while the movements driving the creative modules have, thus far, been relatively pedestrian, founder Benoit has always had his eyes on a goal that, until now, had remained shrouded in mysteryIf you haven't encounte...
Buying Guide: The Best Breitling Watches From The 1960s
We like to talk about vintage watches a lot within the Fratello team. While the daily routine is largely focused on the most recent developments in the world of watches, the most fun for many of us lies in the world of vintage watches. It's a world full of history, remarkable watches, incredible stories, and quirky details. This week we will be looking at some of the best Breitling watches from the 1960s.In the 1960s, we witnessed developments that challenged the status quo of watch design forever. While the 1950s introduced the sports watches next to the dressier timepieces people were used to, the 1960s took that trope to the extreme. The sheer amount of watches that pushed the visual boun...
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco PAM01226
The new Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco PAM01226 brings back memories of the first Panerai watch that pulled me into the brand. It must have been sometime in the summer of 2004, and I was visiting Antwerp with my then-girlfriend (now-wife). As I always do when traveling, I also stopped by a few jewelry stores in the area to check out some watches. One of them was a Panerai dealer, and I noticed a model in the window that immediately caught my interest. It was a white-dialed Panerai PAM00113 on a tan leather strap.At that point, I had never owned a watch from Panerai. However, I really liked the PAM00113’s large case, big numerals, and, at that time, uncommon white dial. I had seen a...
Dear Longines, Bring Back The Ref. 5699
You might have a permanent headache realizing you didn’t pull the trigger on that GMT-Master or Submariner ten years ago. Do you know what the problem is with my dearest Longines 5699? That I was basically 25 years late to the party…The last online listing for a Longines ref. 5699 that I bothered to inquire about was about three years ago. I remember it very precisely, as it were yesterday. I studied the Longines 5699 in more detail and instantly fell in love with it. Being slightly naive, I sent the seller an email asking the price for which he’d part with the watch. “The Longines you inquired about is a truly rare and special beast. The price is $95,000.“ I p...