The New Tudor Black Bay 54 And More Novelties
Tudor has just announced a multitude of new Black Bay models as part of its Watches and Wonders 2023 releases. This new generation of Black Bays introduces a heritage call-back to Tudor’s earliest dive watches with the Black Bay 54, as well as a reworked, METAS-certified Black Bay and a new dial for the Black Bay GMT. But that’s not all. Tudor’s latest releases have all been brought back to the drawing board, where the capable hands of its designers have added subtle yet critical changes, most of which you won’t likely spot at first sight.Tudor Black Bay 54Let’s begin with the new Tudor Black Bay 54. As watches grow - namely the new 2023 Explorer - Tudor watche...
Introducing: The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic
Mostly known to collectors for its excellent dive watches, Certina is a brand with a rich history topside as well. This new release, the DS-2 Chronograph Automatic, takes inspiration from a particular model from 1970 that made its mark not by how deep it went. Quite the opposite, in fact. Accompanying a Japanese expedition to Everest, the original DS-2 Chronolympic made quite an epic journey back down the mountain.Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic - looking backVintage reissues are commonplace these days. As everything old is new again, it makes sense for brands to dust off models with an exciting backstory or place in history. The DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is directly inspired by the DS-2...
The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
Ask a watch enthusiast to name some iconic chronographs, and the Heuer Carrera will likely be one of them. Together with another iconic chronograph, the Daytona, it debuted back in 1963. It was actually a young Jack Heuer who came up with the design and the name for this watch. And now, 60 years later, the Carrera is still true to that first model that Heuer designed. These new two contemporary Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models hit the sweet spot with a 39mm diameter. Furthermore, they have a beautiful domed sapphire crystal shaped just like the Plexiglass crystals on the vintage models. Let’s have a closer look.TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GlassboxThe original Heuer Carrera ref. 2...
Cartier Adds More Color To The Santos And Santos-Dumont
Cartier watches are known for their characteristic dial designs. The most eye-catching feature must be those black lacquered Roman numerals on a stark white or silver background. But that doesn’t mean the designers at Cartier don’t know how to incorporate color into their watches. Look, for example, at the red, green, and blue Tank Must designs that were introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2021. Well, this year, Cartier gives the Santos and Santos-Dumont models a colorful treatment.When I think of Cartier, the first things that come to mind are those glorious Roman numerals. But in terms of full watches, the Santos is always the model at the forefront of my consciousness. I gues...
IWC Drops A New Ingenieur Collection
IWC just released a brand-new collection of Ingenieur sports watches with integrated bracelets. This is an iconic form factor in the brand's rich history, so a return to the stage makes a great deal of sense. For Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC finally delivered the long-awaited successor to the model that debuted in 1955 - or, more accurately, to Gerald Genta's 1976 redesign of the Ingenieur. This new collection follows the sports-watch template that Genta set in the 1970s.We get a total of four new IWC Ingenieur references, three in steel and one in Grade 5 titanium. The steel model comes in black (IW328901), silver (IW328902), and aqua/Petronas (IW328903) dial variants. The titanium model (...
Grand Seiko Introduces The SBGZ009 Majestic White Birch
Sometimes brands introduce timepieces that only need images to tell the entire story. The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 “Majestic White Birch” is one of those timepieces. Looking at the pictures, you know this is not a normal release. The fully hand-engraved platinum Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is part of the brand’s special Masterpiece collection and will see a limited run of just 50 pieces. This new Majestic White Birch takes inspiration from a familiar Grand Seiko theme. However, its execution is unique, and it displays the incredible craftsmanship that Grand Seiko puts into its watches.What defines a horological masterpiece? Is it the technical magic behind the movement, or does it h...
Introducing: Six New Panerai Radiomir Models For 2023
Panerai adds a whopping six new models to its Radiomir lineup. The drop ranges from simple new 8 Giorni variants to annual calendars in precious metals. This, my dear Fratelli, is the year of the Radiomir. Let's have a closer look at these new additions from Panerai.The Panerai Radiomir is a bit of a personal favorite of mine, although I have not quite come around to buying one just yet. I love the pebble-like feel of the cushion case and its pairing with the diamond crown and wire lugs. I like the Luminor, but I love the Radiomir. So when the time came to divide the workload for Watches and Wonders, I quickly volunteered to cover Panerai's Radiomir bonanza.Some historical perspectiveThis is...
Cartier Presents A New Tank Americaine And Louis Cartier
Here we go, folks! Watches and Wonders 2023 has officially opened its doors! Though Czapek got a half-hour head start with its releases this morning, Cartier is following hot on its heels. This is one of the brands that I was most looking forward to seeing new watches from this year, and these releases don’t disappoint. Among other things, the French maison is releasing an updated Tank Americaine and a few playful variations of the Tank Louis Cartier. They’re all new but still very recognizable and unmistakably Cartier. Let’s check them out!Overall, Cartier speaks one of the most distinctive design languages in the watch industry. That’s why many of the brand’s ...
Grand Seiko Introduces The Brilliant SLGC001 Tentagraph
It seems like only yesterday that Grand Seiko expanded its Evolution 9 collection with a string of new releases during Watches and Wonders 2022. Among the new timepieces was the spectacular SBGE285 “Mist Flake,” which is one of my favorite GMT watches. This year, Grand Seiko has a smaller number of new releases for Watches and Wonders, but an absolute standout is the new Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph. This new chronograph is a new member of the Evolution 9 collection. On top of that, it’s the brand’s first all-mechanical chronograph. A Hi-Beat chronograph, to be more precise. Time to find out more.Briefly going back to last year, I found all the new additions to Gran...
The New Zenith Pilot Automatic And Pilot Big Date Flyback
If you love aviation timepieces, you’ll likely know that Zenith is the only brand that can use the word “Pilot” on a watch dial. In 1904, Zenith trademarked the English term, and the Le Locle brand certainly has not let it go to waste. In 1909, a Zenith watch cemented the brand’s place in history, accompanying Louis Bleriot on humankind’s first flight across the English Channel. And with a nearly ever-present lineup of pilot’s watches in its catalog, Zenith has upheld its reputation in the genre ever since. That does not mean, however, that the watches always looked alike. The Zenith Pilot line has seen many variations through the years, and most recently,...
Czapek Antarctique Watches And Wonders 2023 Releases
Czapek already surprised us with a unique new dial in the Antarctique Dark Sector a few weeks ago. Today, we get a total of three new dial styles between the Antarctique and Antarctique S. Usually, when we hear a brand merely release a couple of dials, we roll our eyes and think, That's a tad lazy! But not this time. Czapek’s designers approach dials like they do everything else - with an obsessive eye for detail. So let's have a look at some new dials that are exceedingly complex to develop and produce.Today's Czapek releases include a skeletonized Antractique as well as mother-of-pearl and Japanese-fabric-inspired Antarctique S models. Without further ado, let's dive in.Czapek Antarc...
The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One
If you don’t know Ulysse Nardin or the fact that the brand has a history dating back to 1846, what’s your first impression? Even a glance at the new Freak One will make you think of disruptive small independent takes on Haute Horlogerie from the likes of MB&F, Vianney Halter, or URWERK. And therein lies the charm of the Freak. In fact, it says a lot about Ulysse Nardin as a brand. In 2023, a storied Swiss brand with a rich back catalog will invariably tap into our love for vintage, but Ulysse Nardin takes a bolder path. The Freak is all about shaping trends, not following them, with a 22-year-old rotating wonder that remains a futurist vision.There is a lateral automotive ref...
Breitling's New Navitimer Cosmonaute, GMTs, And Automatic 41s
Not to let its recent Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the spotlight, Breitling is also unveiling a plethora of new Navitimers. Curiously, only one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s in the form of the limited-edition self-winding 18K red gold Cosmonaute. Considering there are nine other watches (double that with strap variants) without a chronograph function, the Navitimer is broadening its potential. Among the lineup is the new Navitimer GMT. As far as I can surmise, this is the first GMT complication in a Navtimer that’s not also a mechanical chronograph. Pusher-less Navitimers have not been my cup of tea, but the GMT layout livens up the dial in a surprising way. Let’s ...
Dear Watch Fans, Beat The FOMO
Dear watch fans, it's time to take a breather. Just sit back, relax, and listen to the 8-track - and you can do that while listening to Me’shell Ndegeocello’s song I’m Diggin’ You (Like an Old Soul Record). The reason I'm writing this is that the fast-paced digital world seems to be taking its toll on watch joy. With the emphasis on money (“Is this a good investment?”) and status (“I want what everybody else is wearing/showing on the ‘Gram,’ and I will pay above list”), the fun has taken a back seat. The watch is now, more than ever, being perceived both as a commodity and a status symbol. And then there's the fear of missing out mi...
Introducing: The Maen Nico Leonard Jump Hour Watch
Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s Maen Nico Leonard Jump Hour, we witness a modern take on a traditional complication. Thankfully, it looks great and is affordable.With Maen having Dutch founders, it’s no surprise the brand is working with Nico Leonard, the popular YouTuber who hails from the same country, on a collaborative piece. While I’m not familiar with Nico’s horological likes ...
Retrospective: The Gallet Flying Officer
If there is any Gallet watch that almost certainly sells for more than $10,000, it’s an early version of the Flying Officer with a black dial. Although it is a very expensive watch, proper research and documentation are limited. The details raise multiple questions.Let’s start with the basics. The Flying Officer, the most important watch in Gallet’s history, utilized previous unique experiments with rotating bezels by other brands in a new and completely innovative way. Produced in 1938 and first advertised in January 1939, the Gallet Flying Officer featured names of world cities, representing time zones, around the edge of the dial on a contrasting white ring. A thin bezel...
New: The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon
With all the craziness set to occur next week in Geneva, Czapek has made the wise move to release a stunning new collection a bit early. The new Antarctique Tourbillon is a tour de force. It showcases a new movement and an impressive dial design. Before the onslaught of new releases begins, take the time to enjoy these beauties.At Fratello, we’re big fans of Czapek. As a result, we’ve released two collaboration models with the Genevan brand. The resurgent company is 10 years old and makes lovely watches with impressive movements and beautifully finished cases. Now, with the Antarctique Tourbillon, Czapek adds a new in-house movement to its most renowned model line.The Czapek Anta...
The Christopher Ward Mr Jones Watches Celestial
A couple of weeks ago, the British Watchmakers’ Day occurred in London. Not only was it a day to get to know almost 45 British watch brands but also a chance for people to get their hands on one of the more than 30 special-edition watches presented there. Both Christopher Ward and Mr Jones Watches were present at the event. They also offered people a chance to buy one of their limited-edition watches. Somehow, though, it looks like their creativity didn’t end just yet. Today, the two British brands present us with yet another 300-piece limited-edition watch. This time, it’s called the Celestial, a combination of Christopher Ward’s C1 Moonphase 37 and Mr Jones Watches&...
Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Predictions
Watches and Wonders 2025 is just a few days away, so today, on?Fratello Talks, we’re making our predictions, voicing our wishes, and expressing our fears for the week ahead. Nacho, RJ, and Lex are feeling the pre-Watches and Wonders excitement. After all, it’s the biggest week of the year for the watch industry, with a record 60 brands showcasing their novelties at the fair. Though we have unique early access to some of the new watches, we do our best not to give anything away and look to fill the gaps where we can only make educated guesses. Though you’ll have to wait until next week to see what some of the world’s biggest watch brands have in store for us this year,...
Some Thoughts On BaselWorld 2016
BaselWorld 2016Disappointing, nothing exciting, quiet, more of the same, just a few comments that were heard during the BaselWorld 2016 exhibition. More or less the same was heard during the SIHH last January.Most watch brands played safe this year, no risks taken. Line extensions mainly, where different colors or materials were used to create more options for consumers. Some brands even lowered their prices or at least are offering something in their lower price categories. Some colleague journalists and editors complained a bit, shrug their shoulders and said it was all a bit quiet this year.But is it? Perhaps, for journalists, it is more fun to write about a super exciting new collection ...