NEW: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGA015 Diver (2022)
Whether we’re discussing Grand Seiko or Seiko, it’s clear that watch fans are on the lookout for a Submariner killer. Therefore, when I saw news of the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGA015 diver, I perked up and read the press material right away. Is this the all-conquering watch that we desire? Let’s see…These days, Grand Seiko and Seiko like to keep themselves separate, but for an old-school die-hard like me, that’s tough. I love Seiko divers and I don’t really care where they come from! I’ve managed to collect most of Seiko’s vintage divers, so I’m always looking at what both brands have to offer when something new drops. Both Seiko and...
New Cartier Tank Must And Tank Louis Cartier Models (2022)
Cartier has a rich history when it comes to dial design. And when it comes to the Tank models, we've seen it all. That makes sense. The watch originated in 1917, so by the time the '70s and ’80s came around, it's only natural that the designers had begun to play with new ideas. Their creativity coupled with the perfect blank canvas resulted in some stunning models. The amazing design found in those watches makes a comeback in the latest releases for Watches & Wonders 2022. Today, Cartier presented three new precious-metal Tank Louis Cartier references and two Tank Must models which join the current lineup.First created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the Tank's signature profile has been...
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 And Ref. 5226G-001 Are Gold
Right out of the gates, Patek Philippe releases two of the biggest show stoppers of Watches & Wonders 2022. The first is the all-new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001. The watch is a brilliant display of vintage-inspired style and technical ingenuity. It combines an annual calendar and a travel time complication?that displays two time zones. It is launched together with the automatic Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 which features the same stunning overall new style. This is a pair of watches that introduces an explorer-chic that is brilliant. Let’s find out more.The big introduction for Patek Philippe this year is the Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001. For...
Tudor Black Bay Steel & Gold Get In-House COSC Movements
Normally, I stick to writing about sports watches, but something caught my eye today deep within the Tudor PR release. The Black Bay Steel & Gold models now have in-house movements and COSC certification! On top of that, they look the part as well.Big-time Explorer fan clocking in for duty here. Therefore, I take notice of watches that are thematically similar. When we think of the Black Bay series, it’s the divers that frequently come to mind. However, there are a really nice series of smooth-bezel models existing in 31, 36, 39, and 41mm case sizes. Up until recently, though, these models were amongst the last Tudors with third-party movements. For now, the steel pieces will rema...
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph
When I think of a diamond-encrusted watch, I tend to think of AP, Patek, or even , achieved in a traditional way, using techniques borrowed from jewelry. But this diamond-encrusted TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph turns this idea on its head. Introducing new-to-the-industry methods, this Carrera completely redefines the diamond-set watch. Unapologetically modern, this piece reflects the brand's passion for the avant-garde. It truly lives up to the TAG Heuer name - for those who might not know, TAG stands for techniques d'avant-garde. The Oxford Reference Dictionary defines it as a term used in the arts to denote those who make a radical departure from tradition”. And simpl...
Tudor Introduces The Black Bay Pro And Black Bay GMT S&G
Tudor’s novelties released at Watches & Wonders 2022 were some of the most hotly anticipated. And if you are looking to add a classically inspired GMT watch to your collection, you’re in luck. Two new GMT models join the Tudor Black Bay family. The first is The Black Bay GMT S&G (steel and gold). It’s a steel-and-yellow-gold version of the popular “Pepsi” Black Bay GMT, equipped with a black-and-brown 24-hour bezel, echoing the modern “Root Beer” colorway. The second, and our favorite here at Fratello, is the Black Bay Pro. This beauty is a steel-bezeled GMT inspired by the classic Explorer II ref. 1655.Both watches use the same in-house CO...
New: NOMOS Glashutte Club Campus Deep Pink And Blue Purple
One thing I love about this job is how diverse the watches we get to review are. Recently, I wrote about the new 10th-anniversary pieces from Bvlgari, celebrating the iconic Octo Finissimo line with a pair of monochromatic masterpieces. Funnily enough, those models came from a brand known for some of the industry’s most ostentatious pieces found in its Serpenti line. Today, NOMOS Glashutte, the famous Saxon independent, is bucking its penchant for producing Bauhaus classics in a pared-back palette in favor of another brightly colored release. Hot on the heels of last year’s orange and gray models, we have a new duo of Club Campus models in Deep Pink and Blue Purple in both 36 and...
New: Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Models
Last year, we saw Panerai focus on sustainable watchmaking during Watches & Wonders. The brand presented the brilliant Submersible eLAB-ID, a concept watch constructed from 98.6% recycled-based materials by weight. The brand also introduced a trio of Luminor Marina eSteel models produced with almost 60% recycled materials. Today, Panerai continues this story with the release of the new Submersible eSteel lineup. These Submersibles come in three different colors with one major improvement in aesthetic over last year’s Luminor Marina Steel offerings.Let’s rewind the clock 12 months before diving into the new Submersible models. I still remember the introduction of the Submersib...
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Chronograph GMT Models (2022)
Grand Seiko further expands its Evolution 9 Collection with the release of two new chronograph GMT watches. On top of that, one of the two watches celebrates the 15th anniversary of Grand Seiko Spring Drive chronographs. These new Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 Chronograph GMT models are part of a greater drop for the Evolution 9 Collection along with two other GMT watches and a new diver. Between these two models, we see a new case design, a new(er) movement, and a colorful limited-edition release. Let’s find out more about these new Grand Seiko Chronograph GMT watches.Grand Seiko has put great emphasis on the Evolution 9 Collection, which represents the future of the brand. The five...
The Cartier Tank Chinoise Enters Cartier's Prive Collection
Born in 1922, the Cartier Tank Chinoise reflects Louis Cartier's appreciation for the art of other cultures. Its design inspiration has its roots in geometric elements of Chinese architecture, and more specifically, the unique shape of the ornate archways or porticos found at the entrance of traditional Chinese temples. A classic Cartier design, the Tank Chinoise celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, the brand has given this model its first redesign since 2004 (with some small exceptions in the Cartier Libre line). A total of six different Tank Chinoise models debuted today at Watches & Wonders in Geneva. Feast your eyes on these latest additions to the exclus...
#TBT A Second Chance For An Injured Alpina 941
It had a crown instead of a pusher cap. It even has new wire lugs welded on. Not many watchmakers would be excited to service such a watch, but I felt this Alpina 941 deserved to be reborn. First of all, there are not many collectors who would jump on such a severely wounded watch. After all, buying such a watch is like buying a highly damaged classic car. It looks lovely at first because it’s often cheap and all original. But once you proceed with the restoration, you realize you will spend way more bringing it back to life than purchasing an already restored piece. So why couldn’t I resist it, despite acknowledging all of the above?Alpina soft spotI have a soft spot for vintage...
?Introducing: The New Laurent Ferrier Evergreen Collection
Unlike some other revelations in Geneva this week, I adore the calm serenity of Laurent Ferrier. I do have the hots for the braceleted tough-guy Sport range, but if you want Ferrier purity of line, the Square and Classic Micro-Rotor models make a lot of sense. In fact, if I had the money, an LF Square and a Sport Auto could be my exit collection. What I find utterly refreshing this year are brands like Laurent Ferrier making a strong impression without being ostentatious. The new Laurent Ferrier Evergreen Collection is a case in point.To Laurent Ferrier, this is second nature, and there is so much that can be said without big words and flashy dials. The much-anticipated Biver release was qui...
New: Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium
Loads of diamonds, sapphire, ceramic, and carbon fiber cases in all shapes, colors, and (XXL) sizes. Yes, Hublot once again delivered. For Hublot, extravagance is a part of everyday life. The everyday life of the fashion-conscious big spenders who are not afraid to show off their hedonist lifestyle. The very voluptuous, wrist-wrapping MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde opened the introduction spectacle at Watches and Wonders. And after that CHF 150,000 watch, a massive transparent block of a watch called the Square Bang Unico Sapphire tickled the senses. Things calmed down quite a bit with the introduction of the modestly sized and subtly sculpted Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski ...
The Alpina Alpiner Extreme With New Integrated Bracelets
Alpina’s tough Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic was introduced in late 2022. The first piece of the Alpina Alpiner Extreme collection was inspired by the brand’s flagship model from 2005. A couple of months later, the Alpiner Extreme Automatic followed.? The collection consists of a line of tough watches that are attractive and competitively priced. For 2023, Alpina is choosing to further expand the collection by introducing an integrated bracelet. It’s a smart and logical move that will make the Alpiner Extreme collection more attractive to a wider audience. The new Alpiner Extreme Automatic on a bracelet comes with two new dial colors. The Alpiner Extreme Regulator Aut...
Introducing: The New Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
The intricate nature of the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 charmed me the day it was released and was one of the first subjects of my now-defunct YouTube channel Wristwatchism. It was actually the first time I had a $10,000 watch as a house guest for a weekend, and it made an indelible impression on me. Chopard has made the Alpine Eagle one of its most successful ranges in recent years, and the new XPS is a sleeker, even more distinct take on the 80s-inspired sports watch.We can start by dissecting the term “sports watch,” as this is a richly endowed take on the genre and a distinct blend of formality and tough steel. Steel, I might add, that has an indefinable sheen and is somehow more...
Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1
Since 2024 began, I have wanted nothing more than a chance to talk and laugh with my grandfather again. This year is the 18th since his passing, which was also half of my life ago now. Perhaps because of that, I feel as if I could finally comprehend and appreciate all of his insight and wisdom. As heartbreaking as it is that we will remain realms apart, I will forever be thankful for one of the gifts he gave me - a deep appreciation for mechanical watches. Although he passed away just as my passion was blooming, I have not a shred of doubt that he planted the seed within me. Now, having reunited with four of my grandfather’s watches, I will use them to learn more about him and honor hi...
Swatch Art Journey 2024: The Swatch Tate Gallery Collection
The Swatch Tate collection debuted on March 20th at London’s Tate Modern gallery, home to over 76,000 art pieces. The reason for that is the latest Swatch art collaboration with Tate. There are seven new Swatch Tate models, each representing a specific artwork - Turner’s Scarlet Sunset, Chagall’s Blue Circus, Mir’s Women and Bird in the Moonlight, Leger’s Two Women Holding Flowers, Matisse's Snail, Barns-Graham’s Orange and Red on Pink, and Bourgeois’s Spirals. For the last one, there’s also a version with the SwatchPAY! system.Swatch Art Journey 2024Swatch and art go back a long way! Just two years after Swatch was founded, there was a Kiki P...
Breaking Down The Brand Longines
When looking at last year's turnover numbers, Longines is the #7 luxury watch brand in the world. You all know who's leading the pack, but did you know that Longines, with a turnover of CHF 1.11 billion, is in between Haute Horlogerie houses Richard Mille in the #6 spot and Vacheron Constantin in the #8 position? Richard Mille needed to sell 5,600 watches to get a turnover of CHF 1.54 billion, and VC turned over CHF 1.097 billion by selling 35,000 watches. Longines, being in the more affordable segment of luxury watches, had to sell no fewer than 1,600,000 timepieces. That is very impressive. But what impression does the brand with the winged hourglass logo - the oldest in-use registered tra...
The Best Watches I Saw At The British Watchmakers' Day 2025
Early in March, I attended the second British Watchmakers’ Day at Lindley Hall (Royal Horticultural Halls) in Westminster. The sophomore effort had another fantastic turnout and cemented the show as a bona fide addition to the watch-event calendar. With 45 British-based watch brands presenting, there was plenty for everyone to enjoy. All brands have a connection to the British Isles and are part of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. Bremont was also in attendance for the first time after being notably absent last year. However, it didn’t stop Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato from roaming the halls and checking out the competitors’ and compatriots’ wares. As any...
Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’re matching up two professional titanium dive watches that come in under $5K. The first is the recently introduced Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. This new version of the popular Marinemaster was released to celebrate 60 years of Seiko dive watches. The second is the Sinn T50, which debuted in 2023. It was part of a trio that also featured the brilliant two-tone titanium and Goldbronze T50. For this match-up, however, we picked the full-titanium version. It’s time to find out which of these two will claim the victory this week!Today’s battle is one between two very capable, professional-level dive watches. The new Seiko Pro...