The Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue Makes A Quiet Debut (2022)
In a week of wristwatch barrage from Geneva, the stand-out pieces are sometimes the more quiet-spoken ones. Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite independent brands, and I can readily attest to feeling a strong desire for the blue-dialed Sport Auto. With a strong titanium case design and a different take on an integrated bracelet, it's the thinking man's Nautilus, and it cemented my love for the brand. But the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue is a very different take on comfortable, blue luxury.In our sometimes-ironic world of wristwear, I would actually turn the tables on normal logic and view the Sport Auto as a suited-up watch at best. I know, it's a titanium sports watch, but it does ...
New: A. Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 Models With Gray Dial
The Lange 1 dial, with its iconic offset time and outsized date display, has become the symbol for the return of Glashutte watchmaking. For 2022, the Grand Lange 1 receives some elegant refinements for its 41mm case in either 18K pink or white gold. The manually wound movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve and wonderful decoration viewable through a sapphire display case back. The case height is the real star of this new release from A. Lange & Sohne, with a reduction of 0.6mm to a thickness of 8.2mm.In either metal, the gray dial represents a stoic calmness that is perhaps needed in this world. It signifies an expression of luxury without shouting you into submission. This ste...
A. Lange & Sohne Introduces The Richard Lange Minute Repeater
I must say, I'm a bit overwhelmed by writing this article. I'm someone who likes to understand everything that he writes about. But when you get asked to write an article on a watch by A. Lange & Sohne, you almost certainly know that it'll involve a complicated piece. The word piece, of course, refers to not only the watch but also to the article at hand. When I saw the first pictures of this new A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Minute Repeater, I thought I got lucky. Not a single complication, just the hours, minutes, and sub-seconds. But then someone pointed out that bulge on the left side of the case…Indeed, when you slide that bulge, it releases the minute repeater mechanism....
The New A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus In Titanium (2022)
Whenever A. Lange & Sohne announces new timepieces, I immediately shift towards the edge of my seat. That also happened when the brand announced its venture into luxury sports watches with the Odysseus back in 2019. It was a release that did not go unnoticed. Watch fans worldwide expected a watch that would aim to compete with the Pateks and APs of the world. Instead, A. Lange & Sohne chose its own path with an extremely unique, characteristic design. Three years after the release of the stainless steel Odysseus, the brand releases the new titanium version. This is not only the most sporty Odysseus to date, but it’s also the first time we’ve ever seen a titanium A. Lange ...
Hands-on With The Formex Field Automatic
There is something prevalent in the watch world: brands use specific design elements across every model in their collections. This makes it easy to identify that a specific watch was made by a particular brand. This is not necessarily a bad thing. In a way, it guarantees that people will be happy with whatever new model they purchase from said brand. However, other brands can be recognized by the fact that each model is different, not only in terms of design and specifications but also in the use of new technology. This strategy is ballsier because such brands run the risk of dividing their fan base. This brings us to Formex and the Field Automatic.Formex went through a revival a few years a...
Watches And Wonders Bonanza Extravaganza
Forget about tool watches, retro styling, and refined elegance. It's Friday, and the weekend is upon us! It’s time to dress up, let your hair down, and hit the club. It's your time to shine. You best do it with a big dose of flamboyance. For inspirational purposes, check out our curated Watches and Wonders bonanza extravaganza, featuring the likes of Louis Moinet, Roger Dubuis, Bell & Ross, and, quite unexpectedly, Oris.I didn't know that Louis-Abraham Breguet, the inventor of the tourbillon, and Louis Moinet, the inventor of the chronograph, were friends. They were. And they would’ve followed and tagged each other if, back in the 18th century, Instagram had already been a th...
Baume & Mercier Riviera Azur 300m And A New 39mm Size
Two years ago, Baume & Mercier reintroduced its Riviera collection. Since then, a few complications have been added, including a chronograph, a moonphase, and a GMT. But a dedicated dive watch was not part of the modern collection yet, despite its presence in the Riviera lineup in the ’80s. So now, 50 years after the first Riviera model’s debut, Baume & Mercier is launching the Riviera Azur 300m. It is a modern dive iteration of the brand’s steel sports watch, featuring an anodized aluminum ring set into the dodecagonal bezel.Alongside this completely new version, Baume & Mercier is also introducing a new 39mm size for the regular Riviera. Until now, there was n...
Piaget Unveils Two New Polo Perpetual Calendar Watches
For 2023, Piaget has unlocked an unprecedented challenge to create the first mechanical perpetual calendar watch for the Polo collection. This newest Piaget Polo model boasts a 4mm-thin 1255P caliber to power a triple calendar correct until the year 2100 and a moonphase indication. Piaget revealed the watch this year in a teaser launch for Watches and Wonders, and it came in a 42mm stainless steel case. To follow up, the Swiss watchmaker has just unveiled two new versions of the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in rose gold and white gold at the Geneva show. However, as we will see with the latter model, the differences are not merely case-deep.Extravagance + elegancePiaget has a long hist...
A Deep-Dive Into The Swatch Sistem51
What better way for a watch brand to mark a significant anniversary than to present the result of a project that is equally challenging, ambitious, and just a little bit mad? Swatch introduced its revolutionary Sistem51 mechanical movement in 2013. It did so to mark 30 years since the brand’s inception. The challenge Mr. Nick Hayek Sr. set out was to create a mechanical movement featuring the exact part count as the original Swatch’s quartz movement. But this was not a one-off prototype or an idea for a limited run. Swatch intended to create a mechanical movement that the brand could use in many future watches. For this, Swatch built a new facility in Boncourt, a sleepy Swiss mun...
New: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other LEs
Last week, Breitling introduced its new three-hand Top Time models with the new B31 caliber. Today, the brand releases three more Top Time models housing the well-known chronograph B01 movement. Let’s take a quick look at these three 750-piece limited editions, including a Martini Racing version with its famous colorway.Breitling Top Time B01 Martini RacingBreitling Top Time B01 RacingThe new cushion-shaped Top Time B01 Racing chronographs have roots in the 1960s. This means Breitling (re)created bold designs, dashboard-inspired dials, and funky colors. The most surprising edition among these three is undoubtedly the Martini Racing. As a kid, I had a toy car (Porsche 935) with the Mart...
New: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction.We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles over the past few years. The distinctive-looking watches always garner polarizing comments but allow me to repeat a public service message: try one on before casting a final judgment. The “smile” at the bottom of the case makes for a unique tank-like experience that works well on the wrist. ...
New: Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer
Did Sartory Billard and Studio Underd0g announce one of the most exciting watches of this release-packed week? The two brands joined forces to create a very special version of Sartory Billard’s SB05. This new SB05 Sunfl0wer features a unique dial designed by Studio Underd0g and produced by Sartory Billard. This 10-piece limited edition will undoubtedly win fans over. On top of that, this new collaborative effort explored new grounds for both Studio Underd0g and Sartory Billard. It’s time to find out more.Sartory Billard has quickly made a name for itself by creating watches with stunning dials. Often, they are the result of collaborative efforts with incredibly talented craftspeo...
Watches and Wonders 2025 Is Here!
As the Northern Hemisphere eagerly anticipates spring’s arrival, the watchmaking community’s attention turns to Geneva, where the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair will take place from April 1st to 7th, 2025. This year’s event promises to be the largest and most diverse gathering in its four-year history. A record 60 brands will be taking over the town, showcasing their latest innovations and timepieces.As always, the Fratello team will be there, providing comprehensive coverage of Watches and Wonders 2025. Our team members will bring you all the latest on the novelties. They’ll ensure that you, our readers, are informed about the latest developments and all stando...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ref.15703 Review
About a week ago, I had the opportunity to give the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver (ref.15703ST.OO.A002CA.01) a try. This Offshore Diver was introduced last year (2010) during the SIHH in Geneva and except for its steep list price, I haven’t heard a negative comment yet. In the past, AP already released a few diver (or scuba) watches as part of their Offshore series. One of them was the limited edition for Wempe, restricted to 175 pieces only.Anyway, let’s not look back to the past models for too long and continue with the Offshore Diver 15703ST. Like all other Offshore models, the 15703ST has these typical rubber accents, like the crowns and the thick rubber gasket bet...
Omega Seamaster 1948 Olympic
In 1948, Omega introduced the world to their Seamaster watch. Omega’s commercial director of that time, Adolphe Vallat requested a watch that was water resistant with an automatic movement. Omega’s designer Rene Bannwart had a sketch on the shelf that was originally intended to be a new Centenary model (the predecessor of the Constellation) that he found to be too bulky to be an elegant dress watch. Adolphe Vallat happened to find it a perfect match for his request.So, there it was, the very first Omega Seamaster. 34mm in diameter, a bumper movement and with these superb looking beefy lugs. These very first Seamaster watches (as pictured below) were available with either center s...
Best Watch Around 3000 USD? This Marvin Regulator Automatic Makes A Good Chance!
Marvin was founded in 1850 by two brothers (by the name of Didisheim) in Saint-Imier, in the middle of the Jura. Before we write yet-another-romantic-but-sad-story about a watch company that didn’t survive the quartz crisis in the 1970s but DID have some nice watches before that time we are going to stop here.Just a few years ago, Marvin Watches Co was brought back to life again by its current owners, true passionate people about watches and the watch industry. We know, because we’ve met them during BaselWorld and at their current headquarters in Vaumarcus, Switzerland.The nice thing about being a watch manufacturer with some history, is that you might have some antique catalogs ...
Watch Strap Review Part 7. Introducing: Gunny Straps
With this 7th episode of Watch Strap Review we are leaving the world of fashion and return to the roots of strap making. We started with small homemade watch straps, craftsmen who do this for the pure passion of creating something cool for our beloved watches. This edition features a name, or brand if you like, firstly (and mostly) introduced to the Paneristi. If you have a Panerai and looking for a custom made strap I bet?you already came across this name. You can find their products on every forum, every Panerai GTG and on the wrists of the occasional Panerai buyer?as well as celebrities. Yet they remained humble and continue to provide us with their outstanding vintage looking straps. I a...
Salthora Meta X: The All-Terrain Watch
Rotating bezel, flank protection, screw-down crown, waterproof to 20 bar: MeisterSinger's Salthora Meta X is not a diving watch. It could be one, no question; it would only need a constant second hand and rotary indices on the bezel as required by DIN 8306. But it doesn't need to be used so specifically - the Meta X is an all-terrain watch.SAMX902GR with a classical Milanaise strapPower PrincipleThe model now being introduced in Basel shows the consistent development of the Salthora product line; these single-hand watches, however, differ fundamentally from other MeisterSinger timepieces. Instead of a single long hour hand, this watch has a minute hand - the hour is displayed in a circular d...
Seiko 6159-7010 Grandfather Tuna 52Mondayz, week #18
Every week, Gerard Nijenbrinks writes about another watch that he will wear that week. This week, he is on a well-deserved holiday and asked me to take over his weekly feature for this one time. For this occasion, I had to think a bit about what watch I’d be wearing for an entire week (with small exception for Tuesday). I decided to pick one of my watches that is a bit of an odd fella. Gigantic, clunky, vintage and a black ceramic case. Without further ado, here’s week 18 of 52Mondayz.Seiko 6159-7010 Grandfather TunaA few years ago, I was visiting a friend who lives in Geneva. He showed me this crazy Seiko. Huge, black and with a Grand Seiko based movement (caliber 8L35). It was ...
Book Review Flightmaster Only The Omega's Pilot's Watch
I’ve been looking many times to add a Flightmaster to my modest collection, but I never dared to pull the trigger on one. That might change now though, as the same guys who wrote the Moonwatch Only book, now bring some light into the dark world of the Flightmaster watches. Their new book titled Flightmaster Only is indeed what the title promises, only about the famous Omega Flightmaster and consists of 224 pages.With an introduction and written historical overview by Petros Protopapas (International Brand Heritage Manager of Omega) and Ilias Giannopoulos (journalist and watch expert), it can definitely be considered as a validated source of information on the Flightmaster watches.Let...