New: Oris ProPilot X With Solid Dials (2022)
Like many of us, I had anticipated new additions to the Oris ProPilot X range for a while. Before this, there had only been a single model in this collection since its inception in 2019. Well, OK, if you count both the titanium bracelet option and the leather strap, there were two. That all changed with the new ProPilot X Calibre 400. However, this trio of new models was probably not what anyone expected. The ProPilot X Calibre 400 receives three dial variants in 39mm titanium cases. With Calibre 400, the ProPilot X goes automatic with a date function at 6 o'clock. Let's dive in and dissect what else this non-limited edition brings to the fray.Before I get into it, I am interested in underst...
New Colors For Citizen's Promaster Aqualand Depth Meter
In a sea of retro-inspired dive watches, Citizen calls your attention to a true retro classic of its own. In 1985, the Japanese brand introduced the original Aqualand Depth Meter. A true diver's watch, it only saw one major update in the early ’90s. Ever since then, the watch has remained in production without much cosmetic deviation at all. As such, it may come as a surprise that Citizen is introducing two variations of this classic model to its Promaster collection this year. Meet the Aqualand Depth Meter JP200 series.For avid divers or dive-watch fans, the Aqualand may have already earned its reputation as a serious tool watch or a collectible. For the uninitiated, though, it would ...
The Longines Pioneers That Inspired The Spirit Zulu Time GMT
Earlier this year, Longines released the Spirit Zulu Time GMT. The watch was extremely well received, as it combined the form factor of the brand's Spirit line with one of the most useful complications available - the GMT. But this is far from the first time that Longines has created a watch that indicates multiple time zones. In fact, the brand has a long history in the field, having created time-telling tools for aviators since the 1930s. Today, we’ll take a look back at the earliest flight-ready watches by Longines and reflect on what they mean for the significance of its latest.These days, watches are widely regarded as products of the luxury industry. Nevertheless, we cannot dismi...
Apollo 13 Astronaut Jack Swigert's Speedmaster Up For Auction
The Apollo 13 story is very famous, and it has even led to problem-solving strategies and processes across different industries. In 2015, I attended a Speedmaster event in Houston, and astronauts Jim Lovell, Tom Stafford, and Eugene Cernan were also present. Jim Lovell, the commander of Apollo 13, told us that day in Houston that the Apollo 13 movie from 1995 tells the story of the nearly fatal mission perfectly.Jack Swigert with the “mailbox” construction he made with the help of CAPCOM Jack Lousma to remove carbon dioxide from the moduleJack Swigert timing the crucial 14 seconds during Apollo 13Also aboard the Apollo 13 mission was command module pilot Jack Swigert. Swigert was...
?Minimalist Splendor: The Best Of Elegant Simple Watches
I love the simple fact that a watch can do so much to my everyday fit and mood, and I couldn’t care less about the dress rules. If a big 42mm sports watch with a 44mm bezel looks great under a linen-mix shirt and fits under the cuff, then I’ll wear it if it looks right on the day. Contrasts are just as powerful as a smooth match of styles, like a diver with a sports jacket and shirt. And the same goes for the simple elegance of spare dials with no dates or indices. They might not give you the exact minute past the hour at a glance, but does it matter? They look great with everything. so bring on the minimalist splendor.Well, except for a worn-out fleece only fit for walking the d...
Discussing Selling Practices & Another Speedmaster Question
Fratello On Air returns with more listener questions. This time, we take on selling practices from brands and attempt to respond to yet another Speedmaster question. Enjoy the ride!...
Daan's Favorite Watches Under $1,000 In 2023
I wasn’t consulted when this series was started. If I had been, I would certainly have called it to a halt. It’s not that I don’t like writing articles like these. It’s just that it’s so tempting to go over all the possible options before making my final selection. These are all watches that I’ve considered buying before, and seeing them time and time again doesn’t make it any easier to keep avoiding them, especially at this somewhat affordable price point of under $1,000. But all right, let’s just get it over with!There are so many watches in this price category. I’m glad we already did a series with a $500 budget since that rules out a ...
New: Toledano & Chan B/1 Architectural Futurism
There’s no denying that we’re in a spinning loop of retro reissues. While some are beautiful and poignant time-traveling talismans capable of mood-elevating magic, some are just cash cows. But if you’re into asymmetric modernity, the architectural futurism of the Toledano & Chan B/1 brings a much-needed breath of fresh air.This year, Watches and Wonders saw most watches being tweaked, perhaps with a new bracelet or dial/bezel color. Look at what is happening in the world of cars, with brands outdoing each other in the search for the future of design. Surely, that’s a path to follow in 2024 for the watch industry? The people at Toledano & Chan think so and have...
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ultramarine Blue & Sage Green
Next year, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato will turn 50. I'm telling you this now, well ahead of the anniversary, so you can prepare yourself for a wave of novelties. One year before the watch's big anniversary, two very fresh yet rich versions make their debut. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue show shade-changing dials that keep the watch young and fresh.If watch lore is true, next year will be the year of Adolfo Natalini. Who? Well, according to most watch media, he was the Italian man who designed the original Girard-Perregaux Laureato in 1975. Natalini (1941C2010) was an internationally acclaimed architect who also served as a professor of archit...
Hands-On: The New Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second
When Citizen introduced the (later-named) Tsuyosa back in 2022, it caused quite a stir. The 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet watch offered a lot of bang for the buck. This year, the Citizen Tsuyosa returns with a new version, the Small Second. Three new references join the collection, in blue, green, and gray. The last comes on a leather strap, while the others feature a new version of the integrated Tsuyosa bracelet.I got a chance to go hands-on with all three. Let's see how I got along with the new value offering from Japan.The new Citizen Tsuyosa Small SecondAt first glance, these are very clearly Citizen Tsuyosa watches. The recognizable case shape, bracelet, and dial are all present. ...
Fratello Talks: Different Ways To Build A Watch Collection
Hi there! Welcome to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, you join Nacho, Daan, and Morgan, who discuss the many possible ways of building a watch collection. This includes looking at some common approaches, sharing some sound advice from their experience, and a spot of soul-searching concerning their watch collections. What works for them may not be what works for you, but some of their tips may prove helpful along the way. Ultimately, everyone will have a different approach to building a watch collection, but if you’re feeling a bit lost or uninspired, tune in to this episode. Before we jump into it, though, it’s time to see what watches they’ve chosen for today&...
Jaeger-LeCoultre In The Movies Jackie
Dutch movie ‘Jackie’, which is in the theaters as of today, is about two twin sisters who have been raised by their father, who receive a phone call one day from their – unknown – biological mother who lives in the US. The twin sisters, played by Carice (a.o. Valkyrie) and Jelka van Houten are sisters in real life as well. Both wear a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Lady in this movie.Jaeger-LeCoultre have been favored in movies numerous times. What about Justin Timberlake wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control in Bad Teacher, or Pierce Brosnan wearing a Reverso Duoface in the Thomas Crown affair. In the original Thomas Crown Affair (1968), Steve McQueen appearantly wore ...
Weekend Watch Lists Top 10 Ladies Watches
It's weekend! We decided to come up with some easy-to-digest content for the weekend, as you've probably been doing enough reading all week. From now on, we will publish our Weekend Watch Lists feature every weekend, to show you overviews with information about the consumer watch market. Our overviews are based on data from on-line watch consumers. Per list we will indicate the countries from which we used the data, as this will vary to keep it interesting. It will be interesting to see how much taste in watches can differ per country and continent. Data is retrieved fromChronolytics.ch, watch market research company that operates under the flag of Ebner Verlag (publishing house of magazines...
The New Pinion Pure (Pro) Collection
Pinion PureEnd of 2014, Bert Buijsrogge had a Pinion Axis Bronze in his photo studio and decided to do a proper write-up on this model as well. You can find his Pinion Axis Bronze review here. I had the pleasure to wear and try one of the Pinion watches as well for a while, the?Pinion R1969 chronograph, but since it was a prototype that was executed a bit differently from the production model, I didn’t do a review on it.But in general I can say that these Pinion watches have a very high standard when it comes to finishing of the case, dial, hour markers, hands etc. It is almost ridiculous for a watch in this price range, even with a loupe there were no flaws to detect and all is razor ...
Speedy Tuesday George Clooney Wears A Gold Speedmaster in Money Monster
A while ago I wrote an opinionated article on brand ambassadors (you can find it here), and although I am not a particular fan of brand ambassadors who are paid to ‘love’ a watch brand, I do love to spot Omega Speedmaster watches on their wrists (but no more than spotting them when walking in the city or when having lunch somewhere for example).An ambassador that I was wrong about in the past is George Clooney. I wrote “Do I like Omega suddenly better because George Clooney is in an advertisement with a loupe on his forehead? No. “. My opinion didn’t change, but I’ve witnessed George Clooney (my wife still blames?me for not bringing her along) during the O...
Hands-on: Tudor Black Bay 36 Like a Comfy Pair of Jeans
Today, we'll take a look at a Baselworld 2018 release, the Tudor Black Bay 36 in blue. In fact, we'll show some pictures of the 41mm version in blue and black, as it's tough to spot the difference in photos unless they're next to each other. We've not given the bezel-less Black Bays a ton of coverage, but I am here to change that as this was and is a sleeper type of release. But firstlet's go back in time.The Tudor Black Bay in 36mm next to the 41mm VersionBack in the 1980's and 90's I can recall walking into Mayor's Jewelers that were often found in many of South Florida's shopping malls. It was usually my Dad and I visiting the shop while my Mother and sister were off browsing elsewhere. W...
Stunning Variation On The IWC Pilot's Watch The Spitfire
The IWC Pilot’s watches were always amazing tool watches. At some point, like many other brands, IWC decided to bring more variation to the game: enter the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire.Since 1948, IWC delivered its Pilot’s watches to the British Army and Navy and the Mark 11 with its caliber 89 movement is being regarded as an icon. Over the years, IWC continued to develop and innovate their Mark watch and today we are looking at the Mark XVII in their collection. Not the 18th iteration, as after the Mark 11, Mark XII followed. Besides the classic Pilot’s watches, like the Big Pilot, Chronograph and Double Chronograph, IWC also introduced their Spitfire Mark-s...
Top Four Unaffiliated Watch And Car Deals That Could Exist (But Don't)
Last time out, I gave you a breakdown of all the watch and F1 team partnerships for the 2021 season. In the closing statement, I pondered the possibilities of Omega becoming an official partner of the sport for the first time. That’s unlikely to happen with as the official timekeeper. But it made my imagination run wild with other possible tie-ins between carmakers and watch brands. My list today looks at a fantastical selection of collabs. These do not necessarily relate to motorsport, and some only tie a specific watch to a car model.We often dismiss it or lie to ourselves about how much we are driven by marketing. Watch aficionados especially resent the marketing tactics of our fav...
Zenith Chronomaster Open Cohiba 55th Anniversary Edition (2021)
Fidel Castro smoked his cigars with a GMT-Master and a gold Datejust on the same wrist. Winston Churchill had a Breguet rattrapante minute repeater pocket watch close at hand. Zenith doesn't need a revolutionary or a statesman to make the cigar/watch connection, it does so all by itself. And has been doing so since 2016 when Zenith created a special El Primero Cohiba chronograph for the cigar brand's 50th anniversary. Five years later the Zenith Chronomaster Open Cohiba 55th Anniversary Edition watch debuts.The fact that cigar smokers, no matter how famous they are, wear watches is nothing to write about. What is interesting though is the fact that both high-end cigars and high horology wat...
The "Freckle" Grail Seiko 5718-8000 Stolen During Transit
What could be an in-depth review of the grail Seiko 5718-8000 is now just a?sour announcement. I?am writing it with quite a?deep sadness.Imagine you sell a tiny part of your company - for the first time ever. You get some cash and you think about where to invest the money. As a watch nerd, I instantly thought about investing in a watch. I first leaned towards investing in some recent watch release, but my vintage DNA negated that idea. I’d been searching for a decent Ed White Speedmaster for quite some time. I thought now might be the time to grab one. You know how it works, you usually land a special watch when you do not expect it. So when the elusive 1964 Olympic Seiko 5718-8000 pop...