The Allure of Japanese Independent Watchmaking: Part Five
In this fifth installment of our window onto the world of independent Japanese watchmaking, we embrace artful craftsmanship. The wrist art of Masahiro Kikuno shows his intensely personal view of horology, infused with intrinsic details and a vivid imagination. This story came to life thanks to a dedicated reader who reminded me of Kikuno-san. As an owner and Japanese collector, Ken Hokugo knows Masahiro Kikuno personally and added an extra dimension to this story.After our introduction of the brand, Ken facilitated a short chat with Kikuno-san as a go-between and translator. So here is a heartfelt thank you to Ken-san for making this happen, and for adding more to my grail list (don't tell m...
The Tumultuous Journey To My Zenith Striking 10th: Part One
Of my meticulously planned collection of eight watches, my Zenith El Primero Striking 10th is the star of the show. Sure, it’s “only” my second-most expensive piece. But it takes the centermost spot in my watch box as well as my heart. Whenever I see it, I smile. Whenever I wear it, the pride of ownership oozes out of my pores. And whenever I talk about it, I bumble like an idiot, at a complete loss for where to begin (evidenced by the fact I’ve started this article seven different times by now). But the road to acquiring my beloved Zenith El Primero Striking 10th was anything but smooth. Like with any watch worth having, the story of my Zenith is one of passion, pati...
The Worn & Wound Timex WW75 Limited Edition
Collaborations between watch brands and other entities are very, very popular. Whether a brand joins forces with a fashion brand or a museum, the result is often something different and fun - a new colorway, a funky dial pattern, or a brand-new model. However, not all watches that stem from these collaborations are affordable. Some retail in the thousands and are only produced in tiny quantities. So it's nice that Worn & Wound worked with Timex to offer a fun watch - the WW75 - for a cool price of $199. And there will be no fewer than 1,000 of them available!Disclaimer: I have stayed clear from collaborations for the most part because they aren't usually to my taste (I'm quite a boring w...
Three Franck Muller 30th Anniversary 'Tribute' Chronographs
Grail Watch, an initiative by our friend Wei Koh (Revolution, The Rake), proudly presents its second?release with the Frank Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Chronographs. This set consists of no fewer than three stunning chronographs, all built to pay tribute to those Lemania-powered 1990s Franck Muller chronographs that made watch collectors go crazy.Although my interest in watches only took off in the second half of that decade, I vividly remember the Franck Muller watches from those days. Not least of all, this is because many authorized dealers of Franck Muller watches in those days had the same crazy demand - sometimes also paired with robberies - as some of the trophy watc...
The Echo/Neutra Cristallo Diver My Holiday Watch
Autumn is well and truly here. There’s no denying it. We’ve all noticed the nights drawing in and the temperatures dropping (well, all of us in the Northern Hemisphere have, at least). I don’t know about you, but I’ve even started putting the heating on here and there. The days of summer are gone, but that doesn’t stop us from seeking a bit of late-summer sun. Instead of taking a summer holiday in summer and skipping the little good weather that the UK naturally gets, I decided to take my summer holiday in October. As is the age-old dilemma as a holidaying watch fan, which watch gets the nod? Well, I took the new Cristallo dive watch from the Italian microbrand ...
Wearing The Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea
During the Watches and Wonders salon earlier this year, I requested the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea for a hands-on review. It took a little time, but last week, the watch finally arrived at HQ. Not in black - my test color of choice was unavailable - but the way more outspoken green-dial variant. I will let you know how Montblancs’s reborn dive watch and I got on, but there will be more to discuss in this episode of Coffee Corner Watch Talk. Since Christmas is upon us and planning is everything, why not have a look at the Kross Studio Wayne Enterprises Edition watch winder in sinister black? It might just be the perfect present under the tree. And there’s also a Phillips watch auctio...
The Rise And Rise Of F.P. Journe
I can relate to most people I meet in the watch industry. Most are guys and gals who are kind of like me. We can level with each other and talk about watches. I understand what they do, and they understand what I do. However, there are some exceptions. There are some people operating on a different level altogether, working on concepts I barely understand. Correction: working on concepts of which I barely understand the child-proof simplified version. One such man is Fran?ois-Paul Journe.F.P.Journe has been the subject of so much hype lately, claiming a place in the spotlight due to soaring auction results. I do not find that all too interesting. It does signal, however, that there is someth...
Bvlgari Presents Four Men's Watches As Holiday Gift Ideas
The festive season is upon us. For those of you in need of a spectacular gift to impress or suggest, look no further. Every year, Bvlgari curates a gift guide for the holiday season. The theme this year is Believe In Wonder, and to save you from getting overwhelmed by a huge array of luxury items, here is a small selection to get you started. Out of the four picks, three are chronographs at different price levels in different materials.Bvlgari Aluminium ChronographFirst off, the Bvlgari Aluminium Chronograph hails from a collection of sports watches launched in the 90s. Reintroduced in 2020, the new Aluminium range revives a distinct design language for a retro look. The use of aluminum and ...
Parmigiani's 36mm Tonda PF Automatic Wins GPHG Award
Parmigiani Fleurier is closing the year on a high note with the release of the award-winning Tonda PF Automatic 36mm. Retaining all the stylistic codes of the Swiss brand's best-selling collection, the new Tonda PF addition aims to delight those with slender wrists. The compact model also boasts a new in-house automatic movement and comes in three iterations. The two stainless steel versions feature either a silver-gray or a dark gray dial, while the 18K rose gold version carries a deep ruby dial.Fresh off the GPHG stageHot off the press (as we reported here just three days ago), the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm won the Ladies' category at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genve, dubbed...
Introducing: Serica 8315-2 With A New Color And Grills
Introducing a new color to an existing watch and calling it “brand new” is one of the oldest tricks in the book. However, when a brand like Serica comes up with a new color, you know you’re in for a treat. Because the French brand is still relatively young, it’s hungry to come up with inventive ways to create original designs. And that’s exactly why this “Desert Red” version of the 8315-2 GMT Chronomtre feels like more than a simple change of color.Just over a year ago, Serica introduced the third reference to its lineup, the 8315. It was a black and white GMT watch with, of course, strong vintage vibes and a quirky asymmetrical 24-hour bezel insert...
Omega Speedmaster Apollo-Soyuz 35th Anniversary
I remember it was back in 2015 when Omega introduced the new Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. You know, the white-dial one with Snoopy sleeping in the 9 o'clock sub-dial. A big introduction event took place in Houston, and brand ambassador George Clooney was there. But also in attendance were NASA astronauts Gene Cernan (Apollo 17), Jim Lovell (Apollo 13), and Tom Stafford (Apollo 10 and Apollo-Soyuz).Speedmaster Apollo-Soyuz 35th AnniversaryTom Stafford was wearing the Speedmaster Apollo-Soyuz 35th Anniversary that day. During later encounters with other NASA Apollo astronauts, I noticed that some of them were wearing this watch too. When I asked why, they told me that they loved this model...
Introducing: The New Urwerk UR-230 Eagle
Today, we’ll take a look at a new release from one of the watch world’s more intriguing brands, Urwerk. The new UR-230 Eagle brings a newly designed case that promises a very different tactile experience. Don’t fear, though, it still won’t be mistaken for anything but an Urwerk.Unfortunately, it has been several years since I’ve been hands-on with an Urwerk watch, but I can still recall the last time. It was all the way back in 2020 at Geneva Watch Days, and I was enthralled with these incredibly unique watches that somehow worked on my slim wrist. Urwerk watches are never shrinking violets, but they’re also not some sort of hot mess. They’re technic...
The New Seiko SPB441 For The Brand's 100th Anniversary
Well, 2024 is going to be a big year indeed! Of course, we’ll have the UEFA European Football Championship in Germany and the Summer Olympics in France. But it’s also the year in which the Seiko brand turns 100 years old. And for the occasion, the Japanese watchmaker is kicking things off with the new Seiko SPB441. This watch is inspired by the very first Seiko-branded wristwatch. It’s a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, and it features a brand-new movement. The original Laurel from 1913 The first Seiko-branded wristwatch from 1924 When I first looked at the press release for this new watch, I thought I was having dej vu. At the end of last year, I w...
Fratello On Air: Case Back Engravings
We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air, and this week, we’re discussing the wide world of case back engravings. Whether they relate to military-issued pieces or special occasions, there’s a lot to potentially learn from these inscriptions. We hope you enjoy this episode, and feel free to comment below about your thoughts on these adornments....
#TBT Enicar And Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss
Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling Moss wore vintage Enicar watches. And that’s a fact.I keep wondering whether 50 or 60 years from now, people will get excited about the fact that Roger Federer wore watches. Will my kids or the kids of my kids be studying old pictures to recognize what Omega watch George Clooney was wearing to the Oscars?The beauty of an eraWell, I believe current brand ambassadors won’t...
Hands-On: The New 34mm Nomos Club Sport Neomatik
You can almost hear the discussions at the Nomos headquarters in Glashutte. First, the 42mm Club Sport was introduced. It was the German brand’s first proper stainless steel sports watch. It was a well-received release but also a little big for some people, so the brand decided to introduce a smaller 37mm size for the Club Sport Neomatik. I called it a home run in terms of size, but apparently, some people didn’t agree, and Nomos introduced a bigger 39mm version. Today, we open the curtain for yet another new size. Please put your hands together for the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik in a 34mm case. Apart from the new diameter, there are also three new dial colors - gold, rose, and pu...
Strap Review: Testing Out New Delugs Sailcloth Straps
The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction.A few things stand out about this new Delugs release. Unlike genuine sailcloth, which uses woven fabric, these straps are crafted from FKM rubber with a sailcloth pattern embossed on the surface. The pattern is neither too deep nor too light, and it looks the part. While this alternative to proper sailcloth is not totally...
This is not a Silberstein, it is an original Adee Kaye
Sheesj. Adee Kaye watches creating an Invicta Lupah replica. Besides the shameless Invicta copy, they also make copies of Zeno, Breitling, IWC, Fortis, Alain Silberstein and more…Check this link here for a nice overview on shameless watchproducers.This is not a Silberstein, it is an original Adee Kaye.They could at least have come up with a better name than something which sounds like Yipee Caye....
Chronoswiss Regulateur 30 Anniversary Edition Hands-On
Chronoswiss – although its name suggests otherwise – was founded in Germany by Gerd R. Lang in 1983. In 2012, Gerd R. Lang sold his shares to the Ebstein family in Switzerland. Although I own a Chronoswiss myself (click here for the review on the Chronoswiss Regulateur I did in 2002), I lost a bit track of the brand over the last few years. During our meeting with Chronoswiss in BaselWorld 2013 I was happily surprised to see that they still produce the wonderful tuna-can shaped cases with ribbed details and large onion shaped crown. In fact, in 2013 Chronoswiss introduced their 30th anniversary edition of their Regulateur watch in both gold and stainless steel. Coincidentally, it...
Speedy Tuesday A Speedmaster Professional 145.022-71 Non-NASA (and Original)
Speedmaster Professional 145.022 CasebacksWhen you look at this Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022-71, there’s nothing strange at first sight. Just a nice and ‘ordinary’ Speedmaster Professional post-Moon. Dial, bezel, hands and bracelet, all correct. In fact, it is quite a nice example of a Speedmaster Professional 145.022-71. In our Speedmaster 145.022 buyer’s guide, we give away some specifics on this reference.However, looking at the back of this Speedmaster Professional 145.022-71, we see something awkward. A clean caseback, with no inscription. But wait a minute, you might say, there are different casebacks for the 145.022, with and without inscription. True...