New: The Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 (2021)
Using the original 1953 Co-Pilot ref.765 AVI as its base, Breitling is releasing five chronographs inspired by four iconic fighter planes - the P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the battle-ready Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and a British icon, the de Havilland Mosquito. For those of you with a strong visual memory, yes, these are similar to the AVI ref.765 1953 re-edition from last year. These ones, however, are on a bulk-up diet. I crushed on the 1953 re-edition and felt its 41mm size to be a perfect contemporary update. But these are big - very big - and I'm slightly confused as to why. Their functionality is top tier, with the COSC-rated B04 caliber and a GMT function. Fresh, popping red on ...
Wrist Game Or Crying Shame: Bell & Ross BR 03-92
Fair readers, it’s time to return with a healthy heaping of Wrist Game or Crying Shame. Last week, we returned after nearly a month away, and I was able to set your pulses racing with a bejeweled . This week, we look at the Bell & Ross BR 03-92. Before we get to that…Last week’s Submariner Silver Serti was a controversial piece indeed. It brought out plenty of comments, and those included words from column veterans Captain Dean Baker and the almighty Chow! Their words and your votes sent this flashy diver down to the seafloor in a 67% Crying Shame result. I can’t say that I’m surprised, but will you shock me with your thoughts on the Bell & Ross BR 03-9...
The Fast And The Fratelli: TAG Heuer Monza Vs. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321
Welcome to my race track. On the left side, we have the TAG Heuer Monza, and on the right side of the track, there’s the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321. This race is part of our contest, The Fast And The Fratelli, where you get to decide which watch wins and goes on to the next track. The goal of this race is to find the best racing chronograph of the past ten years.We’ve set some rules for fair play. The watch must have been produced in the last ten years (since 2011), it must be mechanical, and it must be able to measure elapsed time for at least one minute. Also, it must feature a tachymeter scale. Oh, and it must be awesome, of course! As you can see, we will not exclude limit...
New Release: The Zenith SJX Chronomaster Revival Poker Chip
Re-releasing a watch inspired by an iconic model from your catalog is something brands are not afraid of doing nowadays. However, only a few brands are brave enough to delve deeper into the oddball and rare releases from their past. This is exactly what Zenith has done with the Chronomaster Revival Poker Chip. It hearkens back to 1969 when the brand released the El Primero G383, which was given the nickname Poker Chip due to its dial design. Very much of the era, the psychedelic patterns are undeniably eye-catching. Now, the modern revival, created by Zenith and SJX watches, brings back the watch with a stealthy appearance and plenty of lume!We’ve often sung the praises of vintage and ...
Introducing: The New NOMOS Ludwig Neomatik 41 "Roman"
It’s no secret that the Fratelli are big NOMOS fans. The brand’s signature Bauhaus minimalism makes for a wonderful, clean, classy watch. Yet the Glashutte brand is also not afraid to include small details in its designs. These small details often serve as a nod (or a wink) at either the brand’s own history and DNA or its collaborators. An example of this can be found on the Fratello NOMOS Weltzeit with the house icon replaced with a Dutch windmill. Today, NOMOS introduces a watch with one such detail, something only possible due to the brand’s DUW 6101 movement. Are you wondering why? Then keep on reading, as I’ll touch upon that later in the article.All you ne...
New: Mathey-Tissot Massena LAB Type XX Chronographs
“Pilot's watch” is as much of an evocative term as “diver's watch”. Without hesitation, you can conjure the configuration and layout of a pilot's watch by the mere mention. Namely, a pilot's watch must be legible and luminescent with oversized indications and tactile extremities. The French Ministry of Defence (MOD) already had these specifications in mind for its pilots’ timepieces in the 1950s. And with that, the MOD sent a request for proposal (RFP) for military pilot’s chronographs to six watch manufacturers, including Breguet and, in turn, today's revival, Mathey-Tissot. Together with Massena LAB, these civilian chronographs recapture the spirit of th...
#TBT The Landeron 58-Powered Sada With Unique Date-Set
About two years after Ebauches SA introduced the mightly Valjoux 72C, Landeron spiced up the game with caliber 58. It features one of the most engaging and amusing calendar-setting mechanisms for a chronograph watch. It has been almost four years since I introduced the Landeron 185 caliber in my Kelbert chronograph. What I liked, in particular, was the “misleading” design. When you look at it from a distance, it doesn't differ much from a typical three-register chronograph with counters for seconds, 30 minutes, and 12 hours. Only if you look closer will you see that the bottom sub-dial is slightly different. It does not display elapsed hours, but rather the date! I really like di...
The Yema Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor Limited Edition
A brand new in-house Yema micro-rotor caliber has finally debuted on Kickstarter. I must admit, the brand runs such a packed release schedule that when I received the news a couple of weeks ago, it took me a moment to realize this was as big a deal as it was. Before I knew it, I was on my way to Morteau, invited by Yema for a tour of the brand's headquarters and production facilities. And, more importantly, to see the watches and meet the team of watchmakers behind Yema’s Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 (or CMM.20). After getting a first-hand look at what the brand has lined up for the future, I could not help but be very impressed!?The new caliber will become available in the integrate...
Perpetual Straps Rubber Options For The MoonSwatch
“When it’s cold outside, I’ve got the month of May. Well, I guess you say, what can make me feel this way? My watch (my watch, my watch), talkin’ ’bout my wa-a-atch - MoonSwatch!” Isn’t that exactly how that song by The Temptations went? No? Well, thanks to them for the inspiration anyway. Honestly, it couldn’t be any more fitting. Since I got my MoonSwatch Mission to the Sun three months ago, it has brought plenty of wrist-worn joy to dark, dismal days. And with autumn in full effect and winter not far behind, some May vibes will come in handy over the next six months, I’m sure. But let me tell you, that MoonSwatch Velcro strap had to go...
?Steel Bezels Are Back! Part Two: Great-Value Options
Steel bezels are monochrome tough. That much was settled with my well-read article last week. But even if you haven't got the big dollars for Swiss perfection, you can still get tool-tastic for less than a grand. You might not get the same cred as with a crisp white Explorer II, but you will be surprised by the toughness ratio of these best-buy tool watches.Sure, some of these examples will take inspiration from the well-known visual clues of some vintage grails. Others, on the other hand, like the Seiko and Zelos, have their own particular style that garners respect. We're not so keen on homages, but a hint of vintage inspiration is hard to avoid, and we want it too.Image courtesy of Wind U...
Awake's New Summetria Collection Gets The Balance Right
The new Awake Summetria collection evokes feelings of symmetry and visual balance. With the watches’ guilloche dials and a lack of superfluous detailing, the result is a highly harmonious design. Four limited-production dial colors will be available, ensuring that all who like the design should find a pleasing hue.I recently had the opportunity to meet the founders of Awake at the WatchPro event in London. That also allowed me to go hands-on with the young brand’s offerings for the first time. I was impressed by both the people and the watches. Awake’s releases look minimalistic in photos, but in person, they’re anything but simple. The attention to detail that goes i...
Fratello's Top 5 Recent Zenith Limited Editions
Another Friday, another Top 5! In last week’s list, we looked at some of the most affordable sports watches currently out there. It sparked a lively and legitimate discussion about affordability but also showed that prices are lower than they have been in a long time. This week, we move on to a different brand. It’s one that is connected to , though. After all, Zenith provided with its El Primero movement for the first-generation automatic Daytona. This week, we want to focus on Zenith’s brilliant limited-edition releases. It’s a Top 5 that shows the brand’s unique ability to push the boundaries of design.Within the Fratello team, there is a lot of love for Ze...
What If The Watch Industry Didn't Have To Turn A Profit?
Welcome to the realm of watch science fiction. This story could also bear the title “2023: A Watch Odyssey” because it will wander into a space that exists only in the creator’s imagination. The world described in this article is a nonexistent realm. It's a what-if world that eschews plausibility. But since we experience a watch world that is dominated by large luxury conglomerates, it is interesting to mentally explore what the watch industry would look like if it didn't have to turn a profit.Yes, you are right, the #1 luxury watch brand in the world doesn't have to turn a profit. - which is fully owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a charitable organization establishe...
Introducing: Armin Stron Tribute 1 Fume
When the 38mm Tribute 1 debuted two years ago, it was different from what we usually expect from Armin Strom. The overall design resembled the brand's DNA, yet it was something distinct. It was simpler, smaller, and had a charm about it that other AS models did not. It was the perfect Armin Strom dress watch, and now, with its new fume dials, the Tribute 1 is even more attractive.Now with 13 variations on the roster, the Tribute 1 is already the most extensive model line within the Armin Strom catalog. The latest are the four new Fume variants - Sky, Ocean, Burgundy, and Slate.Tribute 1 FumeThe Tribute 1 is Armin Strom's version of a dress watch. In other words, it's the manufacturer's uniqu...
GMT Watches 101: Caller Vs. Flyer (Or "True") GMT Explained
School bell's ringing, Fratelli! Welcome to GMT Watches 101. We keep talking about caller versus flyer GMT watches, and many people even habitually refer to “true GMTs”. We happily assume that everybody knows what we’re talking about, but that's probably not the case. Sometimes we need to take a step back and cover the basics. So let's have a look at the different ways GMTs are executed.Let me potentially save some of you a little time before we start. If you know the difference between caller and flyer GMTs, you could skip this article. If you're not quite sure though, keep reading. Also, if you want to dive a little deeper into some technicalities, make sure to stick arou...
Fratello Talks: G-Shock Watches
Welcome, Fratelli, to Fratello Talks! This week, your host Nacho is joined by Gerard and Daan. Together, the three tackle the topic of G-Shock watches - the great equalizers, the trusty go-tos, and the watches of which every collector should own at least one. But if you’re reading this, you’re deep enough down the horological rabbit hole (unless they’re genuinely not your thing, which is also OK) that you probably have at least one already.?Speaking of which, let’s take a look at what the guys have on their wrists today....
Introducing: The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer
Today, we bring you news of the Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 Chronometer. It’s a chronograph in a popular color with an equally popular complication. As is the case with many of the brand’s watches, this piece is limited to a very small number. Perhaps you’ll decide to be one of the few owners after we take a closer look.Over the past several years, we’ve covered several Brellum releases here on Fratello. No matter the reviewer, our team has come away impressed with the overall fit and finish of the brand’s watches. The young company focuses on tool watches in bold colors with classic looks and always includes a COSC chronometer rating. Furthermore, Brellum focuses he...
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT
Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the popular Laventure Transatlantique II GMT take the GMT crown? You get to decide which one wins this battle of the travel watches!After last week’s battle of retro-futuristic timepieces, it’s time to return to Earth and focus on two traditional GMTs with strong retro vibes. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is the first GMT version of the popular Black Bay 58 series. It introduces the compli...
A Visit To The OMEGA Museum In Bienne
A visit to the OMEGA Museum was on my ToDo list as soon as I bought my first vintage Omega watch in 1999. In the past, I had mailed several occasions with Marco Richon (former curator of the museum) and John Diethelm (archives of Omega), but it never came to a visit to their museum in Bienne.Just recently, the Omega museum has been refurbished and a new curator (Brandon Thomas) has been appointed. Omega invited me over to come to visit their new museum and two factory visits to see how their Co-Axial movements are manufactured.Together with the guys from aBlogtoRead, Hodinkee, Les Rhabilleurs and WatchingHorology we headed to Bienne, Switzerland, to see these treasures of one of my favorite ...
Hands-On with Junghans Meister Telemeter
As some of you might remember not too long ago we published a photo essay on our recent trip to Junghans. They were presenting their new chronograph, the Meister Pilot and Fratello Watches was there to give an impression on the piece firsthand. It was a memorable weekend filled with vintage cars, planes, watches and amazing people from all over the world. I managed to have a few words with the kind people at Junghans (thank you for the opportunity Anne-Katrin) regarding some watches for a review and while we could not put our hands on the new pilot chrono (yet), we still managed to get a few watches in. I realized that we here at Fratello Watches have never actually dealt with Junghans and w...