Hands-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer
Hamilton's undeniably rich history in military watchmaking is once again brought to our attention. This time, it's the brand's Model 23 mil-spec pocket watch that inspires its latest release: the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer. A tough and reliable tool, Hamilton delivered over 27,000 pieces to the US armed forces during WWII. This was in addition to over one million wristwatches, marine chronometers, and a number of other timing devices and mechanical instruments. The Model 23 pocket watch was a staple of military aviation timepieces, featuring a large and extremely legible dial with cathedral hands and a chronograph function. Though the wristwatch which it inspires drops the added f...
Glashutte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Salmon
Glashutte Original is the quirky cousin within the Swatch Group, allowed to inhabit its own niche, and understandably so. Their Senator collection has old-world charm and strict formality in equal measure, and this time with a dazzling pop of color. This is a bold take on mid-century panache, with the flash of salmon, which GO refers to as “rose opaline”. The Glashutte brand has certainly made a name for itself with its dial-mastery. There is a rich tradition of combining the useful yet still mind-boggling complications within a perpetual calendar with this warm hue, but this is different. From the recently reissued Breitling Datora to the mythical Patek Philippe 5270P, the prece...
James Bond's Watches: Connery, Moore, Lazenby, Dalton, Brosnan, Craig
Who’s the best? It’s an age-old debate that has no clear answer (although to most individuals, their own answer is clear). You’ll certainly hear fewer calls for Lazenby and Dalton (although the latter lands at number two on my personal list), and certainly a lot of lamentation that Brosnan - perhaps the most naturally perfect actor cast in the role - was lumbered with sub-par plots and truly woeful scripts for the last two entries in his frustratingly curtailed catalog, but the fight between the “Big Three” of Connery, Moore, and Craig, will forever divide opinion.It is probably no coincidence that the three names that feature at the top of most Bond fans’...
Why Smartwatches Are Just A Temporary Thing
The rise of smartwatches might trigger memories of the quartz crisis - a new technology that could spell the end of high-end watchmaking. Smartwatch sales grow every year, and not by small numbers either. Still, I have a theory on why the smartwatch is a temporary thing. In fact, there is absolutely no need to view it as a threat to our beloved traditional watches at all.The following is a thought piece based on my personal observations and expectations. Let me channel my inner Nostradamus and envision a future beyond the smartwatch. Note that I am not against smartwatches. In fact, my stance towards them is pretty neutral. I have owned one, and I did not like the constant connectedness. How...
?The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Copper
One look at the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Copper and I’m re-smitten. The larger 42mm version does wear very well for its size, but about three years ago, I fell for the 38. After having it on loan for a long weekend, I was smitten to the point of obsession. But after procrastinating while the popularity of the cool GP re-emerged, the prices went up too far. And does this new release make my indecision feel worse?In a word, yes. Lately, I’ve become even closer to proclaiming 38mm as my all-time fave size, and this week it seems to come to a head. My story on the new 38mm Kurono Calendrier Type 1 came out, and for some inexplicable reason, this Laureato story has a glaring...
Hands-On Review: The CIGA Design Blue Planet
A brushed titanium flying saucer sits lightly on my wrist. Through its sapphire porthole, the Earth as viewed from above the Indian Ocean slowly spins below. Two black rings of numbers and markers surround the globe as satellites would. Am I having an out-of-body experience? Is this a UFO? To the first question, maybe. But to the second question, no. I’m wearing the CIGA Design Blue Planet, a watch of radical design and radical mechanics that is thoroughly grounded, if you catch my drift. The award-winning Blue Planet says and does a lot. I’m not sure a louder statement piece has graced my wrist before.Back in April, I wrote a piece featuring various watches from China. Not watch...
Luxury Brand Logos Devolving Watch Brand Logos Too?
Perhaps you have noticed that some of the most famous luxury fashion brands have a very sleek and almost minimalist logo nowadays. You might also know what the classic Yves Saint Laurent logo looks like. There was the vertical monogram of Y, S, and L designed by Cassandre, one of the most influential poster artists of the 20th century, in 1961. There was also the horizontal logo with the prominent italic Y, S, and L in slightly larger capitals without spacing. The current logo used by the Kering-owned brand is completely different. It's very sleek, yes, but also very vanilla. Founder Yves is absent, and all that remains is Saint Laurent in Helvetica Neue Bold - that's a font you will find in...
[Video] Hands-On With The Breguet Type XX In Rose Gold
We published a written hands-on review on this rose gold Breguet Type XX a while ago, but we also created a video recap of the review. Click the thumbnail above to start the video.Breguet Type XX in rose goldBreguet’s current Type XX and Type 20 models debuted in Paris in 2023 and created quite a buzz. The rose gold version we had here for review, on the other hand, was more of a silent introduction. Still, the new Type XX Chronographe 2067 in rose gold certainly isn’t a “silent” watch. Indeed, it’s a watch that will turn some heads. Blue and rose gold go together well, and it pops even more on the NATO strap (with gold hardware).Breguet Type XX ref. 1780 from 1...
The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out!We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several upcoming releases. One was the new DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, an immediately recognizable watch. It features the brand’s signature case style and arrow-tipped bridge on the dial. Like most De Bethune watches, this is a limited edition. We may never see one in the wild, but it still deserves a closer look.The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbill...
Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we tackle a listener question about pairing watches and straps with our clothing. Do we care or put a lot of thought into what watches we wear with our garb? Stick around to find out more. Watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes....
Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono "Blue" Boutique Edition
I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition, but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made me think of a chronograph with a similarly colored dial I like, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Pink, so appreciated it, but it also wasn't love at first sight. You can imagine my skepticism, then, when the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition was assigned to me.Since my colleague Nacho already introduced the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition when it debuted not too long ago, I will forego the watch’s te...
Speedmaster Professional Moon Phase Skeleton In Platinum
Speedy Tuesday is here! This time we show you something special that one of our readers sent to us. Chris from Australia sent us photos of his Omega Speedmaster Professional Moon Phase Skeleton. A platinum Speedy Pro that Omega created in 2003 together with master watchmaker Armin Strom.Armin Strom is well-known for his skeleton and engraving work and is responsible for this beautiful hand finished ref. AT145.0058 Speedmaster movement caliber 3604A.This movement, based on the Lemania 1884 is the skeletonized version of the Lemania 1874. A movement we’ve seen in other Speedmaster Professional Moon Phase watches as well, being Omega caliber 1866.Only 57 pieces have been made of this skel...
Speedy Tuesday Event Photo Report
It has not gone unnoticed that we organized a Speedy Tuesday Event for all those people who are passionate about Speedmaster watches. A lot of media announced the happening on the 29th of October and we have to say that we’re overwhelmed by the people who joined us for the Speedy Tuesday Event at the ESA-ESTEC official visitor’s centre, Space Expo. A BIG thank you to Omega who made it all possible for us to organize such a cool event. The Speedy Tuesday Event and the support from Omega on this has been the crown on our work regarding the weekly Speedy Tuesday articles.The Omega team making it all possible, special guest James H. Ragan (in the blue shirt) and Fratellowatches’...
Bedat & Co No 8. A hardly known but beautifully designed watch.
This week I’ll wear my Bedat & Co No 8. A beautifully designed and constructed watch, which is hardly known and not often seen.Bedat & Co No 8, ref?888.018.310 52Mondayz, week #44Nowadays Bedat & Co has its focus totally on ladies watches. However, one, two decenia back, there were attractive mans watches in their program as well. And my No 8 is one of them.The reference of this model is 888.018.310 and it came either on a brown woven alligator strap with pin buckle or a black croco strap with rolled edges on a very original constructed folding clasp. Very elegant crown constructionThe main eye catcher of the?Bedat & Co No 8 is the crown wh...
Watches & Pencils #32 Skeleton Watches
Skeleton watches are a category on their own. Since it is almost Halloween I thought this was a good moment to talk about those watches. But before we talk about it I would like to show you my version.When you think about what is important for a watch, one of the first things that comes to mind is having a dial with good legibility. A couple of contrasting hands and indicators on there helps as well. With skeleton watches, legibility and other traditional design aspects move to the background and the (hand-made) technique becomes more important. A lot of design is dictated by the technical parts and their shapes. A true design challenge. You just can’t change certain parts to keep the ...
Melbourne-Based Bleau Watches
Dress watches inspired by the traditions of watchmakingBleau Watches are the new kids on the block, influenced by the highest end of watchmaking, taking inspiration from some of the biggest names in independent watchmaking today.They have a mission to produce well made traditional style watches that don't break the bank. Don't get me wrong, they're not raving about how cheap and affordable they are, instead about what is offered in the package they present, particularly appealing for this first run which is limited and heavily discounted for their Kickstarter launch.Let's just reel off a few features and see if it gets your attention; Swiss made movement, enamel dial, alligator strap, Flame-...
Speedmaster Spotting James Corden (Carpool Karaoke With Michael Buble)
Let me start by saying I don’t care much for celebs. Often, I don’t even recognize them or know who these people are. It is embarrassing?at times when a watch brand invites their ambassadors over at SIHH for example, and I don’t have a clue who they are. It could also be me because I just have no interest in most of them. I don’t look up to them, to be honest, although during a recent event I asked to be in a picture with a famous person for the very first time in my life (Alfonso Ribeiro, who played Carlton Banks in the Fresh Prince). But hey, that’s nostalgy.I know that many people do enjoy these watch spottings on famous people though, entire Instagram accoun...
Wrist Game or Crying Shame: Omega Aqua Terra Railmaster
Welcome back to Wrist Game or Crying Shame where we bring power to the people by letting you vote on whether a watch is worth your time or not.? This week, we take a look at the one and only Omega Aqua Terra Railmaster.Last week, on WG or CS, we took a look at a Cartier Santos in 18K gold and I went full on with Elton John references.? It certainly wasn’t my fact finding that brought this bright piece to a 55% Wrist Game win (thanks to George Cramer for informing us about some of the issues with this watch), but perhaps it was all of my witty quotes from Captain Fantastic’s back catalog.? Either way, you readers are becoming a lot more like us in your love of gold and we like tha...
Win My Oris Diver 65 Movember Edition!
Chris Mann, founder of? Time4A Pint is giving you the opportunity to win his Oris Diver 65 Movember Edition. In this article, Chris will explain about Movember and how you can support this great cause (and win a watch). Without further ado.Like my Oris Diver 65 Movember Edition? Want the chance to win it? ?Grab a ticket for the Time 4A Pint Movember 2019 raffle?, and you just might!What's the Story?In 2017, during a visit to the Nomad Barbershop, in London, I got roped into an Oris endorsed shave off for Movember – where the prize for the Mo Bro who raised the most cash, was a freshly launched, Oris Diver 65 Movember edition of their very own.Thanks to the wonderful attendees of Time 4...
Pre-Owned Picks Halloween Special With Konstantin Chaykin Watches
All Hallows’ Eve. My favorite time of year. And I’m not alone in this. Watchmakers also revel in putting a spooky spin on their collections. For this week’s Pre-Owned Picks, I am selecting three watches with an occult theme. What may surprise you is how collectible some of these watches have become or will become.Horror films are my guilty pleasure. I am far more likely to select a terrible horror film on streaming services over an acclaimed drama. Many share my deep fascination with horror fantasy, whether that stems from books, art, poetry or motion pictures. Some of the characters within are so ingrained that you can distinguish them from only a few subtle shapes. Konsta...