Hands-On with the new Seiko Tuna Prospex S23631 and S23629.
This year saw a tsunami of new Seiko dive watches. Understandably, as 2020 marks the 55th anniversary of Seiko’s first-ever dive watch. To celebrate, many limited editions saw the light, but fortunately, Seiko didn’t forget its regular collection of dive watches. 45 years ago, the introduction of Seiko’s first saturation diving watch, the Grandfather Tuna, stirred up the diving world. Today we’re talking about two modern Seiko Tuna reinterpretations.We already wrote about this year’s regular series Seiko diving models, like the new models in the SPB line,?here and here. And we did a Tuna review this year already as well. Although that one, the SLA041, was part o...
Hands-On Review Of The AnOrdain Model 1 In Iron Cream
What constitutes a microbrand is a frequent topic of discussion in the pristine corridors and glistening towers of Fratello HQ. The team’s “official” opinion has never quite solidified. My personal take is that a microbrand is, an independent brand, practicing a direct-to-consumer model, within an entry-level (<$5,000) price bracket. AnOrdain fits this definition but has much more going for it other than attractive pricing and a good quality/cost ratio. This brand offers an unusual level of craftsmanship for such a young brand, and that deserves some respect.I spent a lot of time in Glasgow in my twenties and early thirties. Scotland is a special place. The people, the c...
Buying Guide: The Best Zenith Watches From The 1990s
We like to talk about vintage watches a lot within the Fratello team. Though most of what we write about is primarily focused on the most recent releases and developments, for many of us, a lot of the fun can be found in the sometimes weird and often wonderful world of vintage watches. It’s a world full of history, remarkable watches, incredible stories, and quirky details. It inspired us to come up with a series of articles focusing on the best watches per decade from a select group of brands. Some of them are priceless, some of them still affordable. In this installment, we will take a look at the best Zenith watches from the 1990s.This week we will continue our journey through watch...
New Pink Gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Like reuniting with an old crush, Vacheron Constantin is tempting me with its new Overseas Chronograph in pink gold with a blue dial. My exposure to this harmonious mix of dial and case material stretches back to 2020 when I met the gorgeous Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin model in person. This week, Vacheron Constantin renders this tantalizing blend with its in-house column-wheel chronograph movement. The results are equally stunning, but does it set my soul ablaze the same way as the pink gold Perpetual Calendar? Let’s find out.I recall the day I first met the Overseas Perpetual Calendar. Among the opaline and skeletonized dials was the blue dial sitting radiantly within a shroud of pi...
Yema Superman 500 GMT Vs. Serica 8315 GMT
It's that time again! There's no moment to relax for two of our writers on Sunday mornings. As you all know by now, Fratello team members battle it out in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. Ultimately, you, our wonderful readers, have the final say on who wins. This week, Nacho and Jorg go up against each other, choosing two affordable French GMT watches to duke it out. Nacho is here to defend the brand-new Serica 8315 GMT Chronomtre. Jorg is taking on the massive task of beating it with the recently introduced Yema Superman 500 GMT. Let the battle commence! En garde!There is something magical about GMT watches. They can be perfect travel companions when crossing multiple time zones, and m...
Hands-On: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 39 Trio
In the ever-expanding universe of available timepieces, I find that not many watches immediately stand out to me. Three watches that did, however, were the new Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 39 models. The immediate eyecatchers here are the dials. With two brown sunburst options in the trio, Nomos introduces a color that we don’t see often. As it so happens, it’s also a dial color that I love. So I had to learn more about the new Indian Summer-inspired pieces. They looked like a series of perfect daily wearers.If you have read Daan’s introduction to the new Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 39 models, you know that the dial colors are not necessarily inspired by the rich colors of the c...
The Polo Ralph Lauren Tartan Tuxedo Polo Bear Watch
Forget about Winnie and Paddington. Yes, they're cute and maybe wise and fun, but man, the Polo Bear has got it goin' on! Just look at him in his tartan tuxedo jacket and embroidered velvet slippers. That's classy swagger. The Polo bear oozes confidence too. Just look at his left paw casually tucked in the pocket of his pants and the right nonchalantly holding a martini. The debonair bear is dressed in classic pieces with modern twists that look to be part of a carefully curated, timeless wardrobe. I can imagine him owning items such as perfectly tailored jackets, crisp button-down shirts, perfectly fitted jeans, and suave, soft loafers. Should the Polo Ralph Lauren Tartan Tuxedo Polo Bear w...
New: Breguet's Flat And Sporty Marine Tourbillon 5577
Breguet’s most famous invention, the tourbillon, returns to the Marine collection. An ensemble of seafaring-inspired sporty timepieces, the Marine honors brand founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s maritime contributions, notably, his appointment by the King of France as the official chronometer maker to the Royal Navy. Today, the Marine Tourbillon 5577 embodies this legacy in a streamlined execution showcasing an ultra-thin manufacture caliber with a delightful peripheral rotor.The tourbillonThe star of the show here is front and, well, not so centered - the tourbillon. The Marine Tourbillon 5577 places the aperture at 5 o’clock. That positioning is consistent with the tourbillo...
Hands-On With The Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera
It’s time for a confession: dress watches are generally not for me. This is due to my predominantly casual everyday style and a lack of formal events in my life for which a dress watch would be most appropriate. But that doesn’t say anything about my passionate love for the genre. Dress watches show a versatility in design that I greatly adore. And as Oscar Wilde said so strikingly, “I can resist everything except temptation.” The brilliant Echo/Neutra Rivanera heavily tested my resistance this past week. Am I ready to give in? It’s time to find out.Is it any surprise that it is an Italian brand that flaunts its elegant style to tempt the ever-so-rational part o...
Introducing: The New Tudor FXD GMT "Zulu Time"
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this new model is the first in the FXD family to feature one. Let’s take a closer look. But before we do, let’s recap the brief yet prolific history of the Tudor Pelagos FXD.Tudor introduced the original Pelagos FXD?model in November 2021. After a one-year hiatus, 2023 became the year of the Pelagos FXD. In late June, Tudor released the ...
Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genve
It has been the better part of a year since Partners Group and CVC Group - the owners of Breitling - announced their acquisition of Universal Genve. Things may have been quiet on the outside, but rest assured plenty was going on behind closed doors. Now we are close to seeing the first fruits of that labor. It’s not much longer before we get to see the first new watch.Gearing up to the relaunch, Universal Genve launches its new branding and website today. It is all still quite secretive. In fact, I did not even get to preview the new website prior to writing this article. I did get to see some of the new branding and associated materials, which offer some insight as to where things m...
Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table, The Ominiscient Merlin
How many Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table collectors are there worldwide? There can't be many, but I suspect the exclusive club is pretty hardcore. Hardcore collectors are meticulous, so I guess they have all 10 KRT creations that have come out since 2013 in chronological order in their enormous watch cabinets in trophy rooms high up the large western towers of their centuries-old castles, each overlooking a valley permanently covered in thick mist. Is that a dragon I hear roaring? Anyway, the 11th KRT release is upon us, and to experience the complicated, exclusive, and collectible watch in person, I went on a quest to Geneva to come face to face with the Roger Dubuis Knights Of The ...
Hands-On: The Silver Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface
You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, and green predecessors. That makes it the first not-so-colorful version, and that certainly makes a big difference. Let’s take a closer look at this modernized classic.The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 from 2011 - Image: DavidSWBut first, some backgroundIn 2011, Jaeg...
Swatch Introduces The Mission To Earthphase MoonSwatch
The next chapter in the MoonSwatch collection shifts perspectives and brings something new to the table. Is it enough to get you excited?Swatch has just announced a new model within the highly successful MoonSwatch collection. Yes, it’s yet another one, and yes, the line is highly successful. Even though the days of never-ending queues are over, the sales figures keep encouraging an expansion of this collection. And let's be honest before jumping into the comments: who wouldn't continue pushing a product that keeps selling?The MoonSwatch Mission to EarthphaseRefreshingly, this new model features a complication that we haven't seen before - earth phases. Just as the name suggests, it's ...
Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit
The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is one of the brand’s most popular offerings. Now, in addition to silver, green, and blue dials, the model is available in Neugraphit, a dark gray tone. If you’re concerned that it’s another gray-and-white Bauhaus design, rest your fears because Sternglas has added bright colors to the mix.When considering what a Bauhaus-inspired timepiece should look like, I immediately imagine a round watch with a polished case, simple stick lugs, and a legible dial with clear, basic markings. Watches like the Junghans Max Bill are perfect examples. Sternglas has cut its teeth on making Bauhaus-inspired watches available to buyers at reasonable prices. The ...
IWC Flieger Chronograph DLC Hands On With The Classic Pilot Chrono With A Twist
Ask any watch collector to name a few classic chronographs and no doubt that there will be a IWC Flieger Chronograph between the Speedmasters and Daytonas. It is one of the chronographs with the most readable and clean dials available out there, and it has been for years. The only thing about this watch that changed ‘recently’, is the diameter of the watch case and the color of the small seconds hand, it turned red. The diameter was 39mm and has grown to 42mm, a bit more into the ‘here and now’ of watches.IWC Flieger Chrono ref. 3717-01Over the last few months, I had the opportunity to try and wear an IWC Flieger Chronograph (or Pilot Chronograph as you wish) that has...
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Chronometer With AP Escapement In Platinum
High frequenciesI am on the cusp of being a grumpy old man. I can see it is on the horizon. My future is laid out in front of me. I now think it is my failing hearing that is the cause. Apparently as you become older the hairs in your ears, which resemble bearded barley, begin to break or become entwined.My failing hearing manifests itself in missing elements of conversations. I seem to momentarily find myself with a daft grin on my face as my brain computes the gaps in the sentences I have only partially heard. Some refer to this as Cocktail Party Syndrome, an inability to differentiate a sound from background noise.Recently I heard about the Mosquito sonic deterrent. It is a high pitched s...
Ebay Shop Makes Shift to High Street Retailer
Tic Watches is one of the most admired online retailers of designer watches over the web. The brand which has already made a niche online reputation with its standout collection of designer watches has recently come up with its own retail outlet in Darlington. With this move the EBay shop is going to widen its retail presence beyond web and making its range available for UK customers to step inside the store and choose their favourite fashion watches. The high street shop of the retail watch brand in Darlington is expected to create sensational presence with its wide array of fashionable watches representing every taste and mood.Tic Watches had been an well acclaimed designer watch shop reta...
Preview of Geneva November 2016 Auctions: ANTIQUORUM GENEVA
Sacha Davidoff Reports On The November 2016 Watch AuctionsAntiquorum is still the only major auction house which exclusively focuses on timepieces. Antiquorum Geneva & Hong Kong belong to FIDES, a private equity firm based in Zurich, and are separate from Antiquorum New York, which is no longer in the same group.With Julien Schaerer, the managing director and watch Expert based in Geneva, at the helm, we see his personal passion for vintage, especially his appreciation of niche brands, in the selection of watches. We also have observed that the team is working towards improvement of its position among watch auction houses as we remember they were at the top for many years. Etienne Lemena...
Formex DS 2100
In the second edition of Formex Watch of the Week, we bring you the DS 2100. This technical diver timepiece with a dynamic allure, combines the essentials of design, quality and robustness. Like all Formex models, it features the patented suspension system. Check it out here.???Complementing their collection of motor sports themed timepieces, Formex jumps into the deep blue with this line of modern divers. With an exciting overall aspect and clear square-round Formex DNA, the DS 2100 stands out of the crowd. The prominent rotating bezel with large numbers and a minimalistic dial design, offer perfect readability, whether you are way below the surface or simply use it in our day to day life. ...