Introducing The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509

Grand Seiko is the unofficial master of finding inspiration in natural phenomena. Many of the brand’s dials are crafted to resemble skies, waters, and landscapes found all over Japanthese two new USA-exclusive limited editions are no exception. The Grand Seiko SBGA507’s blue dial is inspired by the sky over Lake Suwa at dusk. In turn, the SBGA509’s red dial imitates that same sky at dawn.If you read that subtitle and thought you experienced a dej vu, you’re not far off. It’s not the first time Grand Seiko‘s designers have used Lake Suwa as a source of inspiration. Last year, the brand introduced both the titanium SLGA019 and stainless steel SLGA021, whic...

Hands-On: Delugs Spring Deployant Clasp

Look, I'm a simple guy. Life is complicated enough, as are some of the finest watches in the world. Why the way you strap your watch onto your wrist also needs to be complicated eludes me. And when I say complicated, I mean anything other than the tried-and-tested, highly functional, and relatively simple pin buckle. I have experienced watches with folding buckles that were more complicated to understand and operate than the Haute Horlogerie creations they secured to my wrist. So, when I was asked to try out the Delugs Spring Deployant Clasp, I reacted with a frown. Was I the right man for the job? I decided to dump my prejudice and approached the deployant clasp with an open mind.Someone le...

Fratello Favorites: Best Watches Under $10K Jorg's Picks

After Thomas kicked our new series of Fratello Favorites last Friday, I am the second in line to pick my favorites under $10K. As Thomas said, it’s a budget that leaves you spoiled for choice. It’s also the maximum budget that I would seriously consider when buying a watch. While there are plenty of new available models, of which I have picked three, I also highlighted some pre-owned picks. In today’s market of rising new prices and lowering pre-owned prices, it would be almost sinful not to look at some remarkable picks from the past. So, let’s jump straight in.Before we do, though, one article was more than enough to spoil some of the fun. Thomas was smart enough to...

Officine Panerai: Yet Another Panerai Forum

Oh, shoot me. This Panerai Forum is something I set-up with the help of some Panerai enthusiasts. The Dutch Forum is quite popular, so I wondered if there would be space for a Dutch Panerai Forum as well. Panerai is a brand that I have the famous love – hate relationship with. I had this wonderful PAM 113 and sold it because I thought I could do without. Boy, I was wrong. I really missed the whole Panerai experience.. being a Paneristi, buying and changing Panerai straps once in a while (or too often). So, about a year after I sold it, I ran into this great looking Panerai 000. As good as new. And the enthusiasm was immediately there again. Anyway, as a result, I started the Dutch Pan...

Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.012-67

Speedmaster Pro Ref. 145.012-67Today we feature one of the most popular vintage Speedmaster watches with a caliber 321 movement: The Speedmaster Pro reference 145.012. We have featured this specific reference number many times before here, as it was one of the watches that was worn by an Apollo 11 crew member in 1969. Also, as it is one of the most common caliber 321 Speedmaster models, it means you are able to source one without too many problems (and money).Speedmaster Professional 145.012We did a comparison between this Speedmaster Prfofessional 145.012 model and a modern Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 in the past (click here for that story), to show you the changes Omega applied to the...

#TBT Seiko 7A38 Chronograph

I mentioned several weeks ago that #TBT would begin exploring some “different” areas. Hopefully, with recent discussions on pieces such as the King Seiko and Oysterdate Precision, we've taken solid steps towards fulfilling that message. Today’s subject will continue to push the boundaries for this series. Yes, this week's #TBT will likely prove controversial because the selected watch contains something unique: a battery. Despite my general aversion to anything quartz, I actually find today's piece very attractive and interesting. Plus, it combines two of my favorite horological subjects: chronographs and Seiko's. Grab your parachute pants and journey with me back to the e...

Watches & Pencils #18 Olympic Watches

Olympic WatchesSince we are in the middle of the Olympic Games 2016 I thought it would be nice to publish a Watches & Pencils special with a gold angle. We take a look at a few (historic) Olympic watches’ and try to reveal their sportive core'. Most of these watches are quite rare so I needed to look up for pictures on forums and shops. I would like to thank everyone who gave permission to use their pictures in this article.HistoryWhen you do a random search on the web for a sport related watch you will hit one which is related to the Olympic Games sooner or later. Most of the time the watch will be an Omega. If we take a closer look into the history of the Olympics it is actually ...

A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tourbillon Enamel Photo Essay

There are always watches that are high on your wish-list while knowing you probably will never actually own one. Simply because it’s (far) out of budget or because they are only produced in limited numbers and hard to acquire. And sometimes it’s even both. But that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy it in some way which is exactly what happened when we had the A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tourbillon with enamel dial for a few days.First of all, it’s a Lange. Not that this is a reason to buy one right away but simply put I am biassed when it comes to this brand. The designs and an incredible level of detail always impress me. And the same goes for this 1815 which impresse...

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With White Ceramic Dial

It has only been a little over a year since Omega successfully released the new 42mm Omega Seamaster Diver 300M at Baselworld 2018. It feels like a long time ago, but it hasn’t been that long since the new Seamaster Diver 300M created quite a buzz at Baselworld.The renewed edition of? Omega’s iconic diver’s watch received a lot of positive critics and has become one of our favourites as well. A little over twelve months later Omega has not been a part of Baselworld in 2019, and the focus has shifted to the Speedmaster. That doesn’t mean that there are no Seamaster novelties to discuss for 2019. At the Swatch Group’s Time to Move event, Omega introduced three new...

Report: Sotheby's Omega Speedmaster To the Moon and Back Auction

Friend of the show Lawrence “Larry” McGlynn has a website called Space Artifacts, which is worth a visit if you’re into space-related topics.Larry is also known for his role in the Space Dealers TV show (Discovery channel) where he hunts down valuable items that were used in space (and on the Moon). He also loves the Speedmaster, and he has helped us on a few occasions to sort out topics and enabled us to have a little interview with Apollo astronaut Dave Scott (click here). For this week’s instalment of Speedy Tuesday, he contributes a report on this visit to the Sotheby’s auction “Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back | Celebrating 50 years since Apoll...

#TBT Weirdo Movement In Citizen Challenge Golf Watch

I'm not a big golf fan. Until yesterday, I couldn't even tell my bogeys from my eagles. But I am a huge enthusiast when it comes to creative watch movements. And I dont just mean Haute Horology. I like it when manufacturers are creative with everyday-kind-of-watches. You can easily overlook Citizen Challenge Golf. But you should not and in today's #TBT you’ll learn why.To frame your expectations, today's discovery belongs to the group of slightly bizarre, but truly amusing complications. Their practicality or usability is questionable. Their reputation? Practically zero. Think of funky Lip Thermometer, Zeno Tennis watch, crazy Sperina Regulator, or world's first electrically illuminate...

Hands-On With Hanhart Mk 1?And TwinControl Chronographs

Vintage Hanhart chronographs are a solid part of many vintage watch auctions. A strong military heritage, Steve McQueen’s endorsement, and striking visuals mean they have become quite sought after. Today we will look at the two modern reinterpretations. The smaller monopusher Hanhart Mk 1 and double pusher Hanhart TwinControl. I remember when I first learned the story behind the red chronograph pusher. The legend says that the woman painted the button with her red nail varnish so that her man would think of her always. Whether it was his wife or mistress, is not important. Is the story real? That's the question for the marketing genius that came with it. True or not, the red button is ...

1930s New Old Stock Movements Finally See The Light Of Day In Fears New Archival Rectangular Watch

When I picture the 1930s, I am transported to an era of boundless creativity - an age of booming prospects and extravagance. Of course, history distorts reality, as hardship is consistent through all decades - some just more than others. But the Art Deco spirit of the ’30s shines prevalently in media and advertisements of the day. Thus, it proves a challenge to dissociate this decade from the lifestyle portrayed in “The Great Gatsby.” Today, Fears presents its new Archival 1930 watch in a rectangular steel case. Looking at the design, I can’t help but be drawn into the allure of the era. But behind the closed steel case-backs lie the movements powering the watches, re...

Meet The All New Fortis F-39 and F-41 Flieger Watches (2021)

Since 1987, the Fortis Flieger watches have been a cornerstone of the brand’s lineup. The Flieger watches from back then looked quite different from the Flieger models introduced by the Grenchen-based brand just last year (click here). It’s clear that Fortis has made a great investment into these models, which have continued to evolve over the years to reach their current style The new Flieger F-39 and F-41 Midnight Blue are the latest additions to the Fortis collection. According to Fortis, this is a true tool watch. Not just for pilots, but also for watch enthusiasts like you, and me.In my opinion, a Flieger watch needs to tick a few boxes in order for it to truly be a pilot...

Bringing Patina Back To My '93 Seiko 7002 Dive Watch (2021)

The decision of which watch from my collection I would first write about for Fratello was an easy one. I don't have the most extensive collection, and within the core group of watches, only a couple are interesting enough to warrant a closer look. However, one watch in the collection is definitely an eye-catcher and conversation starter. Nothing rare, nothing fancy, but certainly a watch that I truly enjoy and something worth talking about, especially considering the story behind it. I'm talking about my heavily worn, ghost-bezel Seiko 7002 dive watch.?It's a well-known fact that the first sure-footed step into the bottomless rabbit hole that is our hobby and passion often comes in the form ...

Hands-On: Namica Shirahama From Japan With Love

How many independent Japanese watch brands do you know of? With Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, and Casio dominating, we don't often see a new brand pop up from Japan. Or, to be clearer, a brand that makes affordable watches (as in, around $500). So it's nice to come across a brand that does something that feels familiar and new at the same time while staying accessible. The brand, in this case, is Namica. Immediately, we will see certain influences in its designs. But it is the execution and specifications that make Namica timepieces interesting. And they have insane lume to boot!The past few years have seen the resurgence of high-end independent Japanese watchmaking. Kurono Tokyo, which has b...

Why Is Everyone Always Wearing A Dive Watch?

You’re probably right, I might have overdone it a bit with the title here. But isn’t a dive watch the most common choice when starting a watch collection? And isn’t it the kind of watch that most enthusiasts frequently wear? My answer to both of those questions is an emphatic “yes”. But why? Especially in today’s world where most of us are full-time desk divers, we don’t need such water-resistant and capable watches. But still, we wear a lot of dive watches, especially as our everyday pieces. Let’s take a look at a few plausible explanations behind the popularity of this genre.Actually, my first serious mechanical timepiece wasn’t a dive ...

A Closer Look At Traska Watches

If you've been a fervent Fratello reader for the past year or so, you might have heard of Traska watches. I covered the Venturer GMT a couple of times and the Seafarer, the brand's super-compressor-style diver. Both models, objectively speaking, offer great value, with good movements, great finishing, hardened steel, and attainable price tags well below $1,000. So you might be interested to know that Traska is making four of its five models available for purchase Sunday, August 13th, at 11:00 EDT (that's 17:00 Central European Summer Time) with immediate shipping. To that end, we'll take a quick look at all four models and highlight a few key specs they all have in common.??Common characteri...

Longines HydroConquest GMT Vs. Seiko Prospex SPB381

Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown. Today, our editors go head to head in a battle of the GMT divers. It’s a category that is not extremely popular with watch fans. But there are quite a few options out there that combine the functionality of diving and traveling in one watch. Recently, we have seen quite a few new dive GMTs from different brands. In today’s match-up, the brand new Longines HydroConquest GMT takes on the Seiko Prospex GMT that was released just last month. But which watch will take the GMT diver crown? Our writers are ready, so let’s get this battle going.Today’s showdown is a remarkable one. Generally speaking, there are dive watch...

A Collector's Story: Arjun's Speedmaster Odyssey

It is not a secret that we love our Speedmasters here at Fratello, and it’s great to see (and talk to) others who share this passion for these amazing chronographs. A few months ago, I met with one of our readers, Arjun, and we talked about Speedmasters for a while. To me, one of the perks of this job is to talk about the things we love with like-minded people. After we met, Arjun decided to take some time to write his story and share it with all the readers here on Fratello. So, without further ado, here is his “Speedmaster Odyssey” as told in this collector’s own words.Arjun’s Speedmaster collectionTime Well Spent: My Speedmaster OdysseyMy personal journey to ...

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