A Titanium Panerai With A Delicious Coffee-Brown Dial
Good morning, Fratelli! I hate to shock you before you’ve had your first sip of coffee this morning. I know you’re expecting Lex’s usual introduction to the week. However, due to his summer break, I’m taking over. But don’t worry; Lex will be back next week. Now that I find myself with my feet firmly up on the soapbox, there are a couple of things I want to talk about. First and foremost, I want to address the elephant in the room - my new (to me) titanium Panerai Luminor PAM00055, a watch I’d describe as having a lovely coffee-colored dial. Call it mocha, chocolate, tropical, brown, or whatever you like. But please, just don’t call it tobacco.I get ...
Fortis Releases 13 Space-Flown LE Stratoliner Watches
Fortis makes tool watches. In fact, the folks there make pretty damn good tool watches. How do they do that? By testing them in the harshest possible conditions to make sure they can cut the mustard. Think about it: of all the luxury watch brands that make tool watches, how many go into full detail about the all-important testing procedures? I can’t think of many. And I can’t think of any that are quite as transparent as Fortis about testing the Stratoliner S-41 White Dust Supernova in space.Space is a theme often bandied around in the watch world. The great unknown offers infinite fascination. As a result, many brands have jumped on board the hype train with space-themed designs...
A Beautiful Cartier CPCP Trio: Pre-Owned Spotlight
This article is completely based on homesickness. Once again, I’m spending the summer with my in-laws in Spain. Of course, I had to make a watch selection for the trip, and I left my Cartier Santos back in Amsterdam. I think it was the right thing to do as it’s very warm here in Spain, and without any quick adjustment, it would’ve just stayed in my watch roll all the time. However, I do think of it every once in a while, so when I saw that a Pre-Owned Spotlight article was coming up, I knew what the theme would be. And why not make a little more special by just focusing on Cartier CPCP watches?By the way, it’s not like I’m not happy with what’s on my wrist...
Hands-On: Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10
Yema has been knocking out new releases one after another. The French brand focuses on introducing new additions to the brand’s “Manufacture” line of watches. It focuses on premium versions of existing models that feature the brand’s in-house developed movements and are generally also finished on a higher level than the regular models. The latest addition to the line-up is the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10. the second Navygraf gets the “premium in-house treatment.” On top of that, the watch celebrates the 1970s Navygraf that was developed in collaboration with the Marine Nationale. As it turns out, it’s exactly the twist the Navygraf needs.Ba...
Is there still Microbrand Value To Be Found For $500?
Many well-known microbrands have emerged from their niche and become bonafide small brands. Thanks to crowd-funding initiatives, we have also seen many projects jump into the small-brand status directly. Yet a cloud of skepticism seems to hang over many Facebook groups and even in our own Fratelli's comments. That raises the big question that I set out to answer today: Is there still Microbrand value To Be Found For $500?Many years ago, I got hooked on watches through the concept of microbrand value, falling into a deep rabbit hole where many watch lovers have remained. While I have been trying to shift to fewer watches with bigger price tags, I often find myself enthusiastic about new kids ...
The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445
There’s no doubt that vintage Tissot watches represent great value. I liken them to downscale Omega watches in the same way that many VWs are similar to more expensive Audis. This translates to quality movements, cases, and designs at approachable prices. Today’s Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 is a great example of an affordable and available vintage powerhouse.eBay is still my favorite hunting ground for vintage watches. Even though the extreme random bargains are now fewer and further between, great options still exist. Vintage Tissot is a category that consistently offers options on the popular platform with interesting pieces from the ’40s and ’50s. Speci...
Peter Speake-Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls Hands On
There is horology, and there is art. And sometimes there is both. The first popular culture reference to skulls in recent times can probably be traced to Damien Hirst and his diamond-covered skull; I was struck by a sense of dej-vu when viewing this watch for the first time. But there actually was not one, but two diamond-covered skulls. I have to admit, this watch was making me feel a little uncomfortable. We'll come back to this in a minute.Dial aside, the rest of the watch is classic Peter Speake-Marin: a chunky 950 platinum Piccadilly case with thick, straight lugs terminating in oversized screwed bars; aviator crown; vertically sided caseband. All in platinum, of course as befitting a ...
Gianni Agnelli And His Patek Philippe World Time ref1415HU We've Found One For Sale
Gianni Agnelli, former Head of FIAT and Italian industrialist was famous for his flamboyant style. Nicknamed ‘The Rake of the Riviera‘, Mr Agnelli was always wearing his carefully selected timepieces over his cuff.In the autumn of his life he has been spotted wearing this large – especially for that time – OMEGA Seamaster PloProf over his cuff. Earlier even – but already a bit grey haired – he has been spotted wearing this wonderful classic Patek Philippe World Time ref.1415 HU timepiece. Jake featured him on his Patek Blog last year and states that this picture dates back to approximately 1960.We found a similar Patek for sale over at Chrono24, world̵...
Hands-On With The Glashutte Original Sixties Collection
Glashutte Original Sixties CollectionThe Glashutte Original Sixties collection is based on the caliber 70.1 and 70.3 watches that this manufacture produced in the, well, 1960s. Personally, I know Glashutte Original best for its Senator collection and collection of sports watches that they produced years ago, by the name of Sport Evolution. That has been discontinued a while ago, and Glashutte Original now focuses on more classic watches. One of these collections is the Sixties collection, consisting of three different timepieces.A classic three-hand piece simply called Sixties, one with big date called Sixties Panorama Date and a Sixties Chronograph. Glashutte Original gave us the opportunit...
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Celebrates Its 15th Anniversary
For some reason the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra collection struck me as younger, but Omega put out a press release about the 15th anniversary this year of this watch. In 2002, the Aqua Terra was introduced as another sub collection of the Seamaster family. Although Omega has only a couple of watch families, like the Seamaster, Speedmaster, Constellation and De Ville, some of them have quite a few sub collections. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is – what I always believed – their answer to watches like the Datejust and Explorer. Watches that are very versatile and can be worn under almost any condition.Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Through The YearsFirst introduced with the caliber 2...
Speedy Tuesday Sharing A Reader's Speedmaster Story
Owners and their watches, providing an insight in what moved them to buy a certain watch or in this case, a Speedmaster. Once every while we like to feature a reader’s story on their Speedmaster(s). This week we have the story of Iain and his wife Jackie and how they came to purchase their Omega Speedmaster watches.Iain tells the tale of their two Speedies in today’s Speedy Tuesday feature on Fratello Watches.Jackie’s Speedmaster StoryJackie’s story on her Speedmaster all started with this new job. In 2016 Jackie started working with children who have special educational needs. One of the harder parts of the job involves dealing with the children when they suffer from...
Linde Werdelin 3-Timer Returns As Classic Two More Models
Back in 2009, Linde Werdelin showed me their (then) new 3-Timer and I was smitten by it. Actually, I ordered the Linde Werdelin 3-Timer with brown dial and matching brown leather strap on the spot. Then, in the years after, the collection changed quite a bit at Linde Werdelin and so did their pricing model. The 3-Timer disappeared and instead, Linde Werdelin came up with the Spido and Oktopus collections. Beautiful watches for sure, but in a different price category as those 3-Timers, 2-Timers and Linde Werdelin One models.Not too long ago, Linde Werdelin noticed an increased interest in those discontinued models and decided to bring back the 3-Timer. A very cool collaboration was done with ...
You Asked Us: Will the dial of my Oris Aquis Clipperton fade in bright sunlight?
Oris has a good habit of bringing limited editions in their Aquis line to contribute to ocean conservation. This week we received a question from Apostolos, I guess one of our readers in Greece.You Asked Us: Will the dial of my Oris Aquis Clipperton fade in bright sunlight?Here’s the original text of Apostolos question:Subject: WATCH DIALS AND SUN EXPOSUREHello,I recently bought an Oris Aquis Clipperton. Its graded blue dial is a real joy. The question is, is it ok to use in direct sunlight regularly, or it will soon fade and lose its fantastic contrast?Thank you,ApostolosMr. Ulrich Herzog explaining Oris’ contributions to Ocean conservationOris’ Contribution to Ocean Conse...
Hands-on with the Certina DS Action Diver Titanium
The new Certina DS Action Diver Titanium is a runner up for the “nicest affordable, titanium sports watch on the market” prize. Too bad there’s no such prize…yet.It seems that finally, Certina has found its rhythm and place both in the watch industry and within the Swatch Group. Certina knows about its position in the Swatch Group but for a long time, it seemed that they were a bit lost as to what is their real strength. Like in many cases, the solution came from the past. Certina has always been a great diver's watch manufacturer. Vintage or dive watch fans know this for sure. In the last few years, they released a bunch of different watches in their model lines. It ...
#TBT: First astrological watch Astromatic X
Forget about the moon phase or perpetual calendar. We have something better, more ludicrous in store for you. Meet the Astromatic X, a fortune-telling watch from the mid-1970s.Astromatic X with a manual from @right_hand_watchThe scientific super-gadget Astromatic XCross my heart; I?did not make this tag line up. The original Astromatix booklet from that era serves as proof, and I'm positive you've never read a?watch leaflet featuring so many ultra-turbo-super-phrase as this one. Reading it, you'll learn about the watch's ultra-modern shape or ultra-rapid change of date. Stay calm; there is not revolutionary invention to be found here; its just a quickset by reverse setting. But you get the p...
The Bonhams Seiko Auction is Back Again
Last weekend we published an article on the planned Bonhams Seiko Auction. The event was taken down after some heavy criticism but has returned.That’s right, the Bonhams Seiko Auction has returned for another try. Dubbed as “Making Waves: Seiko Part 1,” this online only event is set to expire on August 25th at 18:00 Hong Kong Time. Last weekend, I had attempted to write a full review of the lots when, suddenly, the links were taken down. It seems that mounting criticism caused the auction house to rethink the situation.With its latest incarnation, the Bonhams Seiko Auction sees a reduced number of lots and, thankfully, most of the really bad pieces have been delisted. Also,...
You Asked Us: What Are The Challenges Of Watch Reviewing?
If you've ever been dubbed an expert in a particular field, you'll understand the kind of pressure that comes with the title. A desire to do well for those who look up to your apparent position of influence, who wish to feast upon your assumedly limitless knowledge and experience, and who hope to find you completely and utterly infallible when put to the test comes with the territory. Getting the chance to review luxury watches is a treat, but it is not without its frustrations…Regrettably, with a few less-than-certain exceptions, we are all human. And while it is certainly possible to be an expert in a relative sense of the word, an industry like watchmaking, with its multi-discipline...
Video: Chrono24 Goes Watch Hunting With RJ
Nothing beats a nice little watch challenge. The guys from Chrono24 Magazine asked me to participate in a little game. Together with their host Thomas Hendricks, located in New York City, we also discuss a lot of facts and stories during the watch hunting.Chrono24 Magazine defined three hunts, each time-limited (spoiler alert: I failed massively to stay within time) and within each hunt, I had to find three watches in a special category.Confused? I was as well when they asked me, but it boils down to the following:Watch Hunt 1: Three Omega WatchesApparently, they thought I must know something about this brand. So I had to come up with three picks from this brand. One watch in the entry-level...
Building A Collection The Strategies of Watch Lovers Worldwide
We watch lovers are a varied bunch. Within this quirky watch-collecting sub-realm of ours, we have everyone from monogamous brand devotees to polyamorous proponents of brand diversity. We have both laid-back, casual toe-dippers and laser-focused hunters, forever on the prowl for the next prize. The beauty of this variety is that no matter what type of watch lover you are, there will always be a horological gem out there to set your passions ablaze.Throughout my watch journey, I’ve found that I have developed a collecting philosophy. A set of rules, if you will, that I follow in an attempt to build my perfect collection. If you read my article on “grail watches”, to the end,...
Keep This In Mind Before Buying A Vintage Datejust
For many collectors, the Datejust is the luxury watch that got them started in this hobby. I hear stories from vintage watch dealers around me that can never have enough Datejusts in stock. Seemingly, everybody wants one, probably because it’s more or less the most affordable way of getting your hands on a watch. I also bought one about two years ago. But not long after it arrived, I decided to sell it. I expected a lot from the wearing experience, but it was a big letdown. Let me tell you why.The vintage Datejust was the third watch I bought. After an Oris Art Blakey and a Zodiac Sea Wolf Topper Edition, I thought it was time to buy a . After all, every respected collector owns a ...