Why I Bought The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo S
We who write for Fratello are passionate watch lovers like you. But our writing bears the risk of persuading ourselves to fall in love with one or the other watch or even follow one of the current trends in design. Next to the inescapable vintage trend and the continuously evolving diversity of structured dials in all imaginable color hues, the unbroken demand for what has been named “luxury sports watches” also haunts us Fratello editors in our dreams.Very few of these sports watches are indeed appropriate companions for really sporty situations. Many are too valuable to risk smashing against sports gear or on the ground when our enthusiasm gets the best of us. Others are plainl...
Accessible Luxury: Why The Industry Needs More Straight Talking
You might have noticed several new brands, especially those born on crowd-funding platforms, are using the direct-to-consumer model to slash prices and therefore provide “accessible” or “attainable” luxury”. Maybe I’m a grumpy old cynic or maybe I’m just tired of seeing the same uncreative blurb pushed under my nose already well past its sell-by-date despite the enthusiasm of its presentation suggesting it’s the freshest of the day’s catch. But whatever it is, I’m thoroughly sick of this abuse of language and obfuscation of truth. Let’s spend a few minutes defining why this practice is a problem and actually serves to harm rat...
Big Pilot, Little Prince Introducing The IWC Big Pilot's Watch Monopusher "Le Petit Prince"
Recently, I went along to the London stop of the IWC roadshow in Covent Garden. It was an excellent opportunity to view watches that seldom see time in a boutique. Take, for instance, the Big Pilot Top Gun “Mojave” that is garnering a growing waitlist. IWC also demonstrated the relative mass of a selection of its materials. A block of Ceratanium is far lighter than an equal size block of steel, yet still solid and scratch-resistant. The mass delta may not surprise anyone, but experiencing Ceratanium with a 1:1 comparison gave me a newfound respect for material science advances. IWC makes a further advancement today with its first-ever Big Pilot’s Watch with a chronograph.No...
Why Does Everyone Suddenly Want A Cartier Pebble?
The world of watches never ceases to surprise me. As far as Cartier is concerned, I can’t recall a watch that caused as much of a buzz around its launch as the Pebble did. Even the 2019 rerelease of the Cartier (London) Crash watch caused less noise on social media than the Pebble. And that Crash truly gave me and lots of other collectors sleepless nights, let me tell you.What is a Pebble watch? Why is Cartier now releasing the Pebble, and why is there so much interest in it? How interesting is the Pebble in comparison to the Crash, and what is the future of the model?Let yourself be carried away and updated with the details of this exorbitant watch. It is one that stole my heart, but ...
Meet Varix: An Excelsior Park Chronograph On A Budget
My hunt for chronographs with Excelsior Park calibers is well documented. I spoke about it in some of the Fratello On Air podcasts. You can also read about my endeavor of finding my NOS Excelsior Park some months back. Yet, when it comes to EP-caliber watches, the vintage market offers much more than you might think. On the one hand, we have the usual suspects - Gallet, Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and of course, Excelsior Park's own models. On the other hand, however, one can find many small brands with EP movements hiding inside them. Varix is such a brand, and as luck would have it, we, in fact, have two in the Fratello family.I came across this beaten-up beauty while shopping around eBay be...
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Vs. Antarctique Rattrapante
Winter is approaching in the Northern Hemisphere, so spend a few minutes in bed and warm up with another Sunday Morning Showdown. While the opinions might get heated, the watches are icy cool. In the case of the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante, the ice-blue flourishes may send shivers down your spine. At the same time, the split-second snap may warm the cockles of your heart. In the other corner, the tailored contour of Parmigiani’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante offers supreme comfort, while the stark dial reflects a wintery landscape. Which watch will win? You decide! So read on to get our thoughts, cast your vote, and let us know why in the comments.Now is the time to accept that sports wa...
The Very First Watch For Astronauts ?LeCoultre 24 Hours
This year marks the 65th anniversary of the first watch officially issued to NASA. This watch, a LeCoultre, was based on an existing model (Quartermaster) but customized at NASA’s request. In this article submitted by space-watch buff (and author) Philip Corneille, you can read about this specially commissioned LeCoultre 24 Hours wristwatch. In the header image, you see Mercury astronauts Scott Carpenter, John Glenn, and Alan Shepard at Grand Bahama Island. Each is wearing a 24-hour LeCoultre astronaut watch. The picture was taken by NASA on May 7th, 1961.Deke Slayton in July 1961The Right StuffOn August 1st, 1958, the newly formed National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) c...
Japanese Watches: Favorites And The Recognizable Models
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss Japanese watches. That’s a wide subject, so we attack it in different ways. Stick around to find out how we tackle one of our favorite watch genres. For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 17 minutes....
The Seiko Turtle Still Punches Above Its Weight In 2024
Seiko is a brand that many consider the gateway drug to entry-level mechanical watches. It is also a rare example of a watchmaker that produces anything from affordable timepieces to expensive and high-end watches. The Seiko “Turtle” exemplifies the brand’s ability to punch hard in the affordable segment.The Seiko SRPE93 (formerly known as the SRP777 and nicknamed the “Turtle” for its case shape), is one watch that exemplifies what I would call “Seiko magic” - a perfect mix of durability, quality, heritage, and relative affordability. These qualities extend throughout the catalog, to be sure, and more expensive models have them too. However, the Seik...
Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101
As the title of this post already says, the AP Millenary 4101 was one of the nicest horological surprises in 2011. Some of you probably know that I have a weak spot for the Royal Oak, but this Millenary suddenly appeared on my list of favorite watches as well. The oval watch case is definitely something different and the fact that the oval shaped in-house movement caliber 4101 is specially built for this watch makes it even more desirable for me.The dial with the decentralized small sub dial with the center pinion (to which the hour and minute hands are attached) create the optical illusion that the dial is also oval. The small seconds sub dial blocks the 7 and 8 o’clock Roman numerals...
Speedy Tuesday Speedmaster Professional 105.012 With Serial Number 2400xxxx
Speedy Tuesday is here! Although we love all the limited edition Speedmasters, mission patch models, X-33s, Flightmasters, Z-33, Moon phase etcetera etcetera models, we are the first ones to admit that some times it is just best to buy the ‘original’ Moonwatch.The current Moonwatch is – in our opinion – the ref.3570.50 (as discussed and compared to a vintage Moonwatch in the recent past) but the real Moonwatch that has been used ON the Moon by Buzz Aldrin and other astronauts are the Speedmaster Professional models with reference number 105.012 and 145.012. At least, these are the reference numbers we know of. Perhaps during later missions the caliber 861 models (145....
MB&F Horological Machine No5 A 1970s Super Sports Watch
There will be a few readers who experienced the 1970s themselves – or from a close range, like myself (1977) – and there will also be a readers that know the 1970s best from ‘That ’70s show’. The first group probably don’t know about ‘That ’70s Show’ at all. The 1970s was an era of continued NASA Apollo launches, super jets, orange curtains, quartz LED watches and crazy super sports car designs as the Lambo Miura, Maserati Boomerang, Mercedes CW311 and so on.Anyway, growing up in the 1970s, MB&F owner Max Busser was surrounded by super cars like the Lambo Miura which made him dream to become a car designer one day. Things ended up a b...
Louis Cartier King of Tanks
A Tank, Is A Tank, Is A Tank was Cartier's slogan in 2013 when the Tank Anglaise was released. There was a huge presentation during the launch, that featured all the Tanks models? that Cartier ever created. But there is only one Tank that is seen as the king of the collection, since there is one Tank that is the most accepted, most wanted, most copied and most admired Tank of all. But that does not mean that this is also the Tank that was sold the most, because actually the contrary is true.I am talking about the Tank Louis Cartier, or the LC Tank as collectors and connoisseurs like to refer to it. With its smoother and rounder lines, ?it followed the Tank Normale in 1919, and it was the sec...
Omega Aqua Terra Sergio Garcia Golf Edition 52Mondayz week #49
Omega gave us the opportunity to use one of the Golf Edition models of their 2017 Omega Aqua Terra line up. I happily accepted it as my 52Mondayz watch for this week.The Omega Aqua Terra Golf Edition on my wristOmega Aqua Terra 150M Golf EditionThe Omega Aqua Terra 150M collection currently comprises of no less than 22 variations. A closer look learns that in fact there are 9 different watches with each a choice of different straps. Different straps, like the availability of a metal bracelet, a leather strap, a rubber strap, or even a NATO-style nylon strap. Robert-Jan did a good overview article on the entire new 2017 Aqua Terra series here. An in-depth review on one of the other 2017 Aqua ...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition 100 Pieces Only
You probably recall the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 Tribute that was introduced in 2014 (we wrote about it here). At the time also a limited edition that came in three different case materials: stainless steel (800 pieces), pink gold (300 pieces) and platinum (58 pieces). A tribute to the original 1958 Geophysic, with a 38.5mm diameter cases (instead of the original 35mm). All three watches were equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 898/1 movement. Then, in 2015, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Geophysic True Second, with caliber 770.Above the 2014 limited edition on the left (in platinum), the original 35mm version on the right. Below, the 2015 Geophysic True Second.100 Pieces Only...
Neo Plus: Grand entrance for the bigger sister of a MeisterSinger's classic
MeisterSinger stands for single-hand watches. A single needle-thin hour hand shows time to the nearest five minutes and contributes to a rather relaxed way of keeping track of time. This simple and convincing idea is most elegantly transferred in the pure and modern style of the Neo product line – now upgraded by the Neo Plus, which debuted at Baselworld this year.New white and vibrant highlightsThe Neo Plus remains true to design principles of the original Neo: Its digits have been set in sober, sans serif Helvetica and the round date window matches the shape of the case, making it an essential graphic element of the watch with its contrasting date disk. The Neo Plus is available in f...
Speedmaster-only Auction on Chrono24
The world’s largest online market platform for watches is hosting a Speedmaster-only auction on December 11th. A selection of discontinued and rare Speedmaster limited editions are being offered through the Chrono24 platform as auction items. What to think of the highly sought-after Alaska Project re-edition from 2008? Or the Japanese racing model from 2004? You will find the platinum Apollo 11 edition from 2009 as well.They are all there, and you will also find the 2003?Snoopy Award, 2017 Speedy Tuesday and the very interesting Speedmaster 50th Anniversary Edition (2007) with the huge box that comes with a number of tools. This particular watch was kept in stock till 2014 and serviced...
FROMANTEEL: AFFORDABLE, SWISS MADE QUALITY WITH AN UNDERSTATED DESIGN
Now that the recently announced Fromanteel Pendulum Traveler is for sale, we decided that this was as good a time as any to dive a little deeper into the Amsterdam watchmakers. What drove them to create the automatic Pendulum watches? Let's have a look!Watches With a StoryThe only thing better than an affordable, high quality watch is an affordable, high quality watch with a story. And the story of the Amsterdam-based watch brand Fromanteel Watches is certainly one worth telling.What inspired founders Alfredo Silva and Martijn van Hassel to design their Generations, Globetrotter and Amsterdam Original Series in the way that they did? What is the story behind their Pendulum watches? What trig...
Speedy Tuesday Speedmaster Tropical Dial Photo Report
About two years ago, Bert and I visited the boutique of the Davidoff Brothers in Geneva, and were able to capture a number of tropical dial Speedmasters. Among them, a CK2915 with tropical dial, but also the later CK2998, 105.003, 105.012, 145.012 up till the 145.022 (first watch with caliber 861). In total, we had 12 references in front of us, each with their unique (aesthetic) features.Because we know you love the Speedmaster and especially those with a tropical touch, we put this article in the spotlight once more. Enjoy your dose of #SpeedyTuesday.Omega Speedmaster Tropical DialSome of the Speedmaster dials have the tendency to fade to brown. There are different shades of brown to discov...
Hands-On With The New Omega Seamaster 300M "BOND"
Remember the first Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ‘Bond’? The 2541.80 (quartz) and 2531.80 (automatic) to be precise. Those watches weren’t limited editions, but part of the regular Omega collection and worn by Bond in 1995 and onwards. Today, we introduce to you the Seamaster 300M that Bond will wear in No Time To Die, and it will be in the regular collection as well.I love the Seamaster 300M 2531.80. I had many, sold many, and repurchased one two years ago, realizing I shouldn’t have sold the first one that I bought in 2000. The Seamaster 300M was, and is, the bread and butter piece for Omega. It always offered a lot of bang for the buck and still does. Especiall...