Omega Caliber 9300 Assembly Line Visit Report
Last week Bert Buijsrogge and I visited the assembly line of the much talked-about Omega Caliber 9300 movement. This in-house developed movement was introduced during BaselWorld 2011 in the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph as well as in the Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Caliber 9300.Ever since 2007, Omega is focusing on their in-house developed Co-Axial movements and started by equipping the De Ville and Seamaster models with their caliber 8500. Starting in 1999 already, Omega started using the Co-Axial escapement in movement as such, but (mainly) based on existing ETA movements.For?this in-house column wheel chronograph caliber 9300 movement with Co-Axial escapement, Omega?made huge in...
Speedy Tuesday Hands-On Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award Review
Last year I made a mistake. When the Omega Speedmaster Pro Apollo XI 45th Anniversary came out, with the titanium case and Sedna gold bezel, I didn’t order it straight-away. What followed, was a search for a decent priced (which means – not over list price) Apollo XI watch. In the end I was offered a couple of them, but all way over the initial list price in Euro currency. So, I decided to prevent that from happening again and I ordered the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award even before I saw it in the flesh in Basel.My luck was that I was super fast with ordering an Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award, so I could pick an individual number that?has a speci...
#TBT The Seiko Bullhead 6138-0040 Chronograph
Today, on #TBT, we'll take a look at one of the most popular vintage chronographs: the Seiko Bullhead 6138-0040. While it's a watch I struggle to wear on a consistent basis more on that later it has undeniable charm due to its unorthodoxy. We'll take a close look at the watch, its odd design, and its great build quality. First, though, let's talk a little about Bullheads in general.The Seiko Bullhead – One of the CrowdI'm not breaking any new ground here in explaining that a Bullhead chronograph gets its name from the orientation of its crown and pushers. Notably, the controls sit atop the watch instead of the more customary right side of the watch. Apparently, the rationale for this p...
Hamilton's Khaki Aviation X-Wind line heads for new heights as the brand launches a new interpretation of its iconic X-Wind collection
It was a Hamilton watch used on the first US postal service flight between Washington and New York, so aviation is nothing new to the brand whose prestigious aviation heritage dates back to 1918 and has included the rank of official supplier to the US Armed Forces since 1914. Geared toward the skyward bound, working with leading air squadrons and world famous pilots, Hamilton's Khaki Aviation line is renowned for providing classic aviator styling and functions specific to pilots' needs. Bursting with character rooted in aviation and the instruments that guide it, immeasurably technical and painstakingly precise, the big, aggressive Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono is no exception to this rule.Racy b...
Hands-On With The Grand Seiko SBGH263 Boutique Edition
A journalists’ darling, it seems. I am talking about Grand Seiko. Whether it is here, or on any of the other on-line watch magazines and blogs, when there’s a mention of Grand Seiko you hear violins playing in the background. To such an extent, that it becomes implausible perhaps. However, a few months back we took some of our readers with us to Japan to visit their manufactures and at the end of the day, they were all bitten by the Grand Seiko bug.Although it might come across as such, we are not paid by Grand Seiko to tell you these things or write these reviews. And make no mistake, there are also a couple of things we would like to see different from Grand Seiko. Their pricin...
This Week in Watches December 1, 2018
Greetings on this first day of December! The holiday season is now officially in full swing everywhere (I say that as my European wife chided me last weekend for putting up the Christmas tree while still in November the nerve of Americans!) and we are back with This Week in Watches. The last week of November wasn't overly notable for news, but there were some stories worth mentioning on TWIW. Oh, and RJ was good enough to chime in on the new Cartier and with some Omega news. But firstSalonQP(lease make some changes)At the end of the prior week, RJ and I flew to jolly old England to take in the annual SalonQP exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London and it was I'm just going to skip the bl...
BALTIC Watches
BALTIC Watches was launched via Kickstarter in 2017 with our two ?rst watches : The Bicompax & HMS, both inspired by the 40's step-cases watches. The idea to make vintage inspired watches didn't come from anywhere. Nothing would happen with a family story that made this possible.The founder Etienne Malec has inherited a collection of watches from his father that he didn't had the chance to know. His father extensively recorded his watches in a journal, keeping track of every one that passed through, with price paid, price for selling, what he traded it for. Being immersed in this journal and this collection was the beginning of a passion story that started more than 15 years ago and has ...
Why Every Speedmaster Fan Needs A Model With Hesalite Crystal
It’s a never-ending question, which Speedmaster Professional should I buy? The one with sapphire or a model with Hesalite crystal? And then there’s not just a single right answer. Both have their own advantages. But here’s why every Speedmaster fan should at least have one model in their collection with a Hesalite crystal.Technology advances. Man developed new solutions for watchmaking constructions. That’s quite understandable. New lubricants brought a better lubrification lifespan. New materials ensured better anti-magnetic properties. Different constructions made longer power reserves possible. And that’s not the end of the list.A Speedmaster Professional wit...
The AnOrdain Model 1 Fume Comes Full Circle The Perfect Scottish Watch?
I recently had the chance to go hands-on with the anOrdain Model 1 Iron Cream. It made quite an impression on me and my colleagues. So much so, Daniel Muller of Fratello fame added it to his collection. Throughout that review, I expressed my preference for the Model 2 Fume from anOrdain, largely thanks to the exquisite dial. Now, with the release of the anOrdain Model 1 Fume the cat has been thrown among the pigeons…Truth be told, my decision between the Model 1 and the Model 2 was always a quick one, but neither the cases nor dial layout played a part in my decision. It was all about the enamel. The fume style, which anOrdain reputedly stumbled upon entirely by accident, placed the Mo...
The Longines Spirit Collection Inspires Pioneers Of The Next Generation
This year has been another solid year for the Longines brand. With such global appeal and consistently strong sales across a variety of price points and demographics, it would be easy for Longines to rest on its laurels. Throw into the mix the fact the brand is supported every step of the way by the Swatch Group and the impetus to innovate diminishes further. And yet, despite how easy Longines could have made life for itself, a constant desire to improve has seen some of the most impressive releases in the brand’s history hit the market in 2020. The Longines Spirit Collection is no exception…There are many ways to sell watches in the modern world. Some brands focus on the product...
NOMOS Glashutte Rounds Out 2020 In Style
It’s been a funny old year. Everyone has had to react and adapt to unforeseen challenges. The watch industry could little have imagined the shift in the landscape. While restructuring release calendars has proved a challenge for all, some brands have had the added stress of managing an unpredictable market in an anniversary year! For NOMOS Glashutte, 2020 marks a very special year in the history of its hometown. Glashutte is celebrating 175 years of watchmaking. Thankfully, despite all the tumult of 2020, NOMOS has done that sleepy Saxon treasure-trove justice…I’ve very much enjoyed covering the releases of my former company this year. There have been some solid additions (...
The Schofield Treasure Watch A Glittering Testament To England's Past
Inside all of us, there lives a magpie. For some, the magpie is the dominant beast of the subconscious. It compels its host to seek out shiny things wherever they may lie and scavenge them to beautify their nest. For others, the magpie is small and softly-spoken. But when poked, prodded, or mildly cajoled, it can’t help but poke its beak out into the unknown world in search of glittering goodies. I would profess to have a smaller internal magpie than many. However, even I cannot deny that my fluttering forager has stirred thanks to Schofield’s latest release. It’s a pair of new Treasure Watches that exemplifies the strapline at the very heart of the brand: “All We Mak...
Hamilton PSR MTX Limited Edition for The Matrix Resurrections
I'm only kidding, of course. No need to commit a cyberpunk sci-fi fashion faux pas this early in the week. The latest Hamilton Pulsar dons the black mantle for you, also featuring the iconic green digital text of the 1999 cinematic masterpiece The Matrix. This limited edition release provides fans of both the Hamilton PSR and Wachowskis's iconic film with a perfect wrist-dwelling companion, just in time for the latest sequel in the franchise coming out later in December. Are you ready to acrobatically dodge some bullets in slow motion? You'd better be because this one is taking us straight into the gritty digital sci-fi universe. Is it the One to have though?I hope you've had enough Matrix p...
Nezumi Voiture RUF 2 A Scorching Hot Racer For The Wrist
Nezumi, from my neighboring country of Sweden, is a tough fuel-infused brand with a penchant for colorful dials. Rob has professed his love for the brand and I get it. For me, it’s moved mecha-quartz up the ladder of cool, adding some super fresh dials along the way. Here is yet another bright piece of wrist candy, this time with a German racing inspiration. How on earth could this make me disappointed?Well, for one simple reason: the new Nezumi Voiture RUF 2 could’ve raced up the charts in our ongoing The Fast And The Fratelli contest… if only it had used a mechanical movement! The goal is to find the best mechanical racing chronograph of the last decade, and this new Voit...
Introducing The New Shu-Iro Prospex Limited Edition Dive Watch
Let's call this brand new Seiko watch by its real name. No, not SRPH61K1, as much as that rolls right off the tongue. I'd rather go with the Seiko fan-bestowed nickname - the Samurai. The latest makeover of the Seiko Samurai sees the Japanese brand look to its Navy for inspiration. The Samurai as we know it today has been around since 2017. But the previous model (discontinued in 2008) came into the collection in 2004. Back then, a shorter minute hand, a longer hour hand, and a totally different seconds hand made the rounds over a flat dial housed inside the rugged, angular, titanium case. Its signature knurled crown and square profile remain to this day, even in the latest take on this stap...
Best NOMOS Releases of 2021 Metro, Club, Tangente, And More
I love “end-of-year retrospectives”. It’s very enjoyable to go back through a brand’s output within one calendar year and compare releases and release strategies around the industry. Although change happens slowly in this business, our lives move very quickly. As such, taking a moment to reflect on developments and novelties can be as cathartic as it is useful for understanding context. NOMOS Glashutte has had another impressive year. In fact, it has been one of the more active (and featured) brands on Fratello. That certainly has a little bit to do with my almost obsessive fandom, but I’m pleased to see that the feeling seems to be mutual among the Fratelli.Thi...
#TBT The Blackest Black On A Citizen Alarm Date ALDS 51301a-Y
The black dial on the Citizen Alarm Date is so suggestive that you feel like you want to drown in it. ?I wouldn’t have expected Citizen to become one of my top-of-mind brands when someone asks me about vintage alarm watches. Well, watch collecting can be surprising sometimes. Now, of course, the champion spot is already occupied by the legendary Vulcain Cricket, with the earliest models at the absolute top.Citizen climbing upRight after Vulcain,?there is this bizarre Basis with a rotating Plexi crystal to operate the alarm. But then comes Citizen to close out the top three makers of vintage alarm watches (no JLC Memovox, sorry). Before you read about today’s #TBT hero, you should...
Breitling And Deus Team Up For Another Top Time Edition
Breitling has renewed its partnership with rebellious Australian surf-style brand and motorcycle customizer Deus Ex Machina. To celebrate, Breitling unveils the new Top Time watch with design input from Deus. The base of the new watch follows the familiar pattern of the 2021 Top Time Deus edition with some design tweaks. On the dial, black gives way to sky blue on the tachymeter scale and sunken TV-set sub-dials. Notably, the new Top Time Deus edition ups the limitation to 2,000 pieces. Raising the number of units is undoubtedly in response to the original Deus being an instant sell-out at 1,500 pieces. Will the new one generate the same demand? Let's find out.Looking back to 2021, we never ...
New: Seiko SNJ039P1 "Arnie" & SRPJ35K1 "Turtle"
Seiko is taking the #throwbackthursday theme very literally today. The brand is revisiting two beloved models, each with decades of history, and freshening them up a bit. Both the special-edition “Arnie” (SNJ039P1) and “Turtle” (SRPJ35K1) get a blue-and-green bezel insert. And they’re also each fitted with a minute hand in seafoam green so you can keep track of your time underwater. Let’s take a closer look at what Seiko has done here.The love for these two classics doesn’t seem to have run out just yet. Watch enthusiasts all over the world can’t get enough of all the variations available out there. We’re all familiar with all-black, blue...
RJ's Best Watches Of 2022 Omega, , AP, And More
Compared to the previous years, 2022 flew by. And thinking about all the releases in 2022, we’ve had a great, full year packed with exciting new watches. There have been so many great new watches this year that it is difficult to compile a short list, so I won’t. Instead, I will touch upon all the highlights that I saw in 2022.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th AnniversaryEarly in the year (January), Audemars Piguet introduced its Royal Oak “Jumbo” upgrade for the 50th anniversary of this Gerald Genta design. After 50 years, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” received a new movement. The ultra-thin caliber 2121 has been replaced with the new caliber 7121. This movement com...