Omega Aqua Terra Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH279
Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re putting an Omega Aqua Terra up against a Grand Seiko SBGH. These watches are very close on paper. Their retail prices are nearly identical, and we’re talking about versatile three-handed watches that can be worn every day. It’s the Grand Seiko Heritage reference SBGH279 versus the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M reference 220.10.41.21.03.004.Neither Nacho nor I own these references (though Thor recently picked up the SBGH279). However, we had them in our office for hands-on review at some point and decided they would make for a nice battle. The Grand Seiko SBGH279 retails for $6,200, and the Omega Se...
The New Piaget Polo Date And Polo Skeleton In Green
For a color as ubiquitous in our natural surroundings as green, it is certainly not one of the most common hues in watch design. Thus, as green executions have started to catch on in recent years, some have called it a trend. That must sound preposterous to an upscale purveyor of watches and jewelry like Piaget. Green has been a hallmark element in the heritage brand's creative palette since the 60s, not least of all because of its different shades in gemstones. As such, the Swiss manufacture continues to bring this color to life in its timepiece collection. The latest novelties receiving a verdant makeover are the Polo Date in rose gold and Polo Skeleton in steel.Green with envyPiaget calls...
The Best Watches Under $3,000: Jorg's Picks
A budget of $3K seems like enough to pick some amazing timepieces. What I found, though, was that it was a pretty hard task. It’s not that there weren’t enough options, but what were the ones that ticked all the personal boxes? As it turned out, there weren’t all that many that truly made my heart sing. Nevertheless, I did find a trio of watches that I would love to wear every day. Even better, I found five if you include my pre-owned pick and a “secret” new option that only qualifies in certain parts of the world. It’s not as exciting as it might sound, but it is quite a wonderful way to round out my list of the best watches under $3,000.With many of the ...
Watching The Mido Multifort TV Big Date
There's a bunch of clever people working at Mido. Take a look at the new Mido Multifort TV Big Date. What do you see? I will tell you what I see later on, but the TV-shaped case and big date are not the two features that hit me first. Yes, the case shape looks like a TV - not the flat screen you have at home but the television set your grandparents owned - and the big date is also a prominent horological feature, but it's the overall visual impression that strikes first. And my guess is that the very clever people at Mido are very much aware of that. Anyway, did you answer my question yet? I will do the same right now.My brain screamed Aquanaut! when I picked up the Mido Multifort TV Big Dat...
Geneva Watch Days 2023 Get All The Latest On Fratello
Is it September already? Well, not quite, but Geneva Watch Days 2023 is here, meaning we’re two-thirds through the year already. It also means that a tidal wave of watch releases is headed this way. So get warmed up, wax your board, and get ready to surf the wave right here on Fratello. Over the coming days, we’ll bring you the news on the latest releases from all your favorite watch brands. This is the fourth annual Geneva Watch Days fair, and much like a snowball rolling downhill, the event has grown in size and momentum.This year, the self-described “decentralized and self-managed multi-brand watch event” takes place from the 29th of August until the 2nd of Septemb...
Perrelet Evolution: The Turbine 41 Titanium Strikes A Balance
You know, watch trends, like most fashion trends, are in perpetual motion. While the domain of luxury watches saw a slew of oversized timepieces dominate for years, the pendulum has swung back to smaller, more delicate ones. Enter Perrelet’s newest release, the Turbine 41 Titanium. Here’s why it’s making waves.Remember the days when large watches were the “in” thing? Well, Perrelet’s unique Turbine collection played a lead role in that era. With models previously ranging from 44mm to a whopping 48mm, why change a winning formula? Well, it’s evident that today’s watch lovers veer towards watches catering to smaller wrist sizes. These days, fewer...
Introducing: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma II
Zenith is a brand that I feel often does not get as much attention as it deserves. The Le Locle-based watchmaker has formidable technical expertise, particularly with its El Primero movements. Zenith has recently introduced the latest watches utilizing the brand’s top-of-the-line El Primero caliber. The Defy 21 Chroma II is available in two colors - black (ref. 49.9013.9004/21.R952) and matte white (ref. 49.9014.9004/01.R953) - both in ceramic. These are limited editions of 500 pieces in each colorway for a total of 1,000 watches. The Defy 21 Chroma's first iteration was introduced at LVMH Watch Week last year and stood out with its white ceramic case and bold color accents. The Chroma...
Hot Take: A New Blue Tudor Black Bay Chrono
As the watch world holds its breath ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Tudor has taken the opportunity to debut a new blue colorway for the Black Bay Chrono. This latest iteration also features the fan-favorite five-row bracelet, which only made its way onto the model earlier this year. First introduced in both panda and reverse panda, the latest version of the Black Bay Chrono received an unforeseen splash of pink. Today’s blue colorway is slightly subdued and, arguably, more on-brand.Does it feel like dej vu to you? Because it sure feels like it to me. Two years ago, on August 30th, 2022, just ahead of GWD, Tudor announced one of its most acclaimed and popular models, the Pelagos 39. This ...
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Rose Gold & Black
When you think of Vacheron Constantin, the Fiftysix might not be the first watch you associate with the brand. Models like the 222 and the Overseas will probably come to mind first. However, like those, the Fiftysix is based on one of Vacheron Constantin’s true heritage pieces. Besides, it receives the same attention to detail and finishing. Vacheron Constantin has just introduced another rose gold version of the Fiftysix, and for the first time, it features a black dial.The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix’s design is inspired by one of the brand’s vintage models from, unsurprisingly, 1956. That model had very handsome lugs based on the brand’s logo, the Maltese cross. T...
Introducing: Four New Roger Dubuis Tourbillon Creations
Do you think there's a small group of tourbillon collectors out there who operate like Pokemon trainer Ash Ketchum from Pallet Town whose goal is to become a Pokemon Master? His motto is Gotta catch ’em all, and if the same goes for self-proclaimed Tourbillon Masters, visiting a Roger Dubuis boutique will help them bag different types of tourbillons. To keep things fresh, the brand from Meyrin on the outskirts of Geneva just released a quartet of watches that might be an interesting catch. These new Roger Dubuis creations are the gem-set Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome, and two single-tourbillon Excalibur watches in pink and white ...
Gateway Watches: What They Are And The Best Ones Today
I had studied it for months. I knew everything there was to know about it. The only issue was that I had never seen one in real life. The only way to get my hands on one was to order it online. So that’s what I did. It took its sweet time since I had asked the vendor to retrofit a domed sapphire crystal. Then, one fateful day, the mailman arrived with a parcel. I opened it, my heart racing. A brand-new Seiko SKX009J1 emerged. I remember my first thought was, Hm, it is quite ugly. But it didn't matter. This was my first watch - or, first mechanical watch, I should say - and it would be my gateway watch. I was in. I was doomed.All watch collectors and enthusiasts can tell you a story lik...
The Best Watches Under $10K: Thor's Picks
Well, that is what I wrote when I started this story, genuinely believing that I would have a problem choosing. But as many times before, RJ, Mike, and others have finished their Best Watches Under $10K stories and stolen my chosen thunder.The $5KC10K segment is not easy for me as my taste annoyingly tends to hover far above my budget or in the $1,000C3,000 world of strict reality. But as I've decided to try to find focus and variety within my collection, a few gaps would easily be filled on this still-generous budget.Cartier Santos-Dumont WSSA0046I'll first confess to being a closet Cartier fan. I somehow feel that the brand gets an extraordinary amount of hype and doesn't need any help. Bu...
Speaking of Constellations
Speaking of Constellations (see post below), last weekend I visitted my grandfather and he told me he was quite happy with the accuracy and new ‘looks’ of his Constellation. Some years ago, before the watch got a complete overhaul, I wrote a small essay/review on his watch. Next time I visit him, I should make a new picture of his watch. The dial is cleaned up and the crystal and case are bright and shiny again.Anyway, the review can be found here. Mind you, it is dated (2001) and the pictures are made with a digital camera which probably is even cheaper nowadays than a leather strap....
WatchPic o/t Week 35
Some time ago, Jon Langballe (co-moderates the Omega Forum at WatchUseek) sent me a picture of his Seamaster 300.I guess Omega nowadays seeks the internet as well, looking for “what’s hot and what’s not” amongst customers and collectors. Omega uses details from watches like these and apply them on new models like the Seamaster Planet Ocean and others (think of the vintage Constellation pie-pan and the modern DeVille Co-Axial).Thanks Jon!!...
Top 10 German Watch Brands In The USA
Every month my company Chronolytics sends out a newsletter to the watch industry, watch enthusiasts and press with some facts & figures on watch consumers and their ‘behavior’. Today’s newsletter is about the awareness of German watch brands by consumers from the USA. Based on IP-address and cookies, Chronolytics is able to track the on-line behavior of millions of watch enthusiasts on the largest watch market platform in the world. I thought it would be interesting to show how German watch brands are doing in the USA, as some of them are clearly trying (and with quite some positive results) to get a piece of the US market for (luxury) watches.This article is an excerpt...
Quick take: Sinn in Blue
Earlier today, I had the chance to visit the Sinn Boutique in Frankfurt.? I was with a friend who was interested in potentially buying a 103, so I took the opportunity to see if the just-announced blue pieces (T1 & T2 divers and the L.E. 103 A Sa B) were in stock: they were!? I think the bullk of what has been published on the web has been based on press photos, so I took the opportunity to take a few pictures.? Sadly, I do mean only a few shots because the Sinn store was hopping!? I was there at roughly 3pm and there were no less than 3 people (locals, not tourist groups) buying new Sinns.? So, time was limited but I hope you enjoy seeing the blues in “real” lighting.Sinn 10...
Gorilla Fastback A First Look
A letter from someone I knowA couple of years ago, 2012 to be precise, I traveled to Paris together with Bert and Gerard to witness the 40th anniversary exhibition of the Royal Oak. Being a big fan of the Royal Oak, we decided to drive down there and have a look. A friend, who was working at AP at the time, arranged an interview with designer Octavio Garcia for me. So we sat down and since I am a huge fan of the Royal Oak, I didn’t have to prepare much and just fired away. You can read about that visit (and interview) here. However, Garcia left AP a while ago and it became a bit silent. Now, not too long ago I received an e-mail from him. I was honored already when I noticed it wasn...
Hands-On Chronoswiss Flying Regulator (CH-1243.3-BLBL) Review
Chronoswiss RegulateurBefore I start with the review of the Chronoswiss Flying Regulator, let me give you a brief history on my own experience as a Chronoswiss Regulateur owner. It must have been around Christmas 2000, when I got my own Chronoswiss Regulateur. Regulateur, not Regulator. At some point, Chronoswiss changed the wording.1987The Chronoswiss Regulateur model that I have for over 15 years, is reference CH1223. There was only one different reference before this one, which was a hand-wound watch (reference CH6322). The first Chronoswiss Regulateur was created by Gerd R. Lang (founder of Chronoswiss) in 1987, and had this Unitas based movement, turned into a regulator watch. Hour, min...
Hands-On: Omega Speedmaster 311.10.39.30.01.001 Review
Earlier this year, I was asked to write an article for Omega’s Lifetime Magazine about the Trilogy watches. Including the Speedmaster 311.10.39.30.01.001 of course. From the first moment on, I was thrilled by this watch and I didn’t need much time to order one for myself. As I am writing this, I am waiting for the watch to be delivered, but in the meanwhile I received a Speedmaster?311.10.39.30.01.001 for review. The so-called 0000/3557 number (and there are more of these 0000s, for sample and presentation purposes).Speedmaster 311.10.39.30.01.001A bit later, when I saw the watch in the flesh during BaselWorld, I was certain I made the right choice by ordering it. I read the posi...
Grand Seiko SBGR311 Review Limited Edition of 1300 pieces only
When Grand Seiko was re-introduced in 1988, their first models had quartz movements. Then, in 1998, Grand Seiko introduced the 9S calibre movement. The first two mechanical calibres for Grand Seiko that were introduced in 1998 were their calibre 9S51 and 9S55. The latter might sound familiar to you if you are into Seiko watches, as it was the base calibre for the 8L35(b) movements used in the Marinemaster series for example. These first two Grand Seiko movements were regulated to perform well within chronometer standards and had a power reserve of 50 hours. Since then, the 9S calibre movements have improved by (a.o.) using innovative materials (resulting in an accuracy of -5/+3 seconds a day...