Horological Innovation That Isn't In The Movement
When speaking of innovation in watchmaking, we quickly jump to developments in watch movements. Things like new complications, finishing techniques, creative new architecture, downsizing, and upsizing draw our attention. But there is a lot of innovation going on beyond the movement. In this article, I want to explore significant innovations that have nothing to do with the beating heart of the watch.From innovations in materials to added features and resistance to extreme conditions, it is all part of the development of the humble watch. Let's dive in!Innovation in water resistanceThe dive watch as we know it today has only been around since the early 1950s. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lived...
Fratello REM Straps For The Speedmaster: Speedy Tuesday 2
Every month in 2023, we introduced a special Fratello X REM strap for the Omega Speedmaster. Our eighth strap this year, made for the month of August, pays tribute to the Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman” watch we introduced to you in 2018. It’s also appropriate as a September release, as later this month, part of the Fratello team will head over to Tokyo for this year’s first #SpeedyTuesday event.Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 “Ultraman”The Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday 2 Ultraman, or ST2, was introduced on July 10th, 2018, and was spoken for within two hours. The responses were massive and very positive by collectors of both vintage and modern wat...
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech
Amidst the flurry of new Geneva Watch Days releases, Girard-Perrergaux has just announced the new Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech. This latest release from the brand takes the DNA of the original 1975 Laureato and combines it with the newest materials and contemporary design innovations. Since its introduction in 2019, the Laureato Absolute line has hosted only the most avant-garde versions of the watch. Each combines aesthetic and material interest to culminate in some of the brand’s most exciting timepieces. We enter a world where stainless steel is passe, and titanium, sapphire, and carbon reign supreme.Back in January of this year, we saw Girard-Perregaux introduce the new Laur...
Hands-On: The New Tissot PRX Digital
There's no denying that Tissot hit the jackpot with the PRX. The quartz, automatic, and chronograph versions of the watch in different sizes and colors are knocking it out of the park. Tissot is riding the PRX wave and is trying to do it for as long as possible. You can't blame them. Especially when that effort means a string of interesting variations on the retro-modern PRX theme. Did you expect a PRX GMT with a flyer ETA movement or maybe even an affordable perpetual calendar iteration? You will have to be patient because first, it's time for a series of Tissot PRX Digital watches.You might think that the Tissot PRX Digital is a bit of a far-fetched concept. Well, you're mistaken. Take a l...
Hands-On: The New Oris AquisPro 4000M
Yes! Finally, I can write about my favorite watch that I saw at this year’s Watches and Wonders event! Today, it was publicly introduced at Geneva Watch Days. Let the cat out of the bag; it’s the new Oris AquisPro 4000M. Now Oris has a pointless, hors categorie?dive watch of its own. And compared to other well-known pointless dive watches, this might be my favorite.In our “Fratello Favorites - The Watches And Wonders 2023 Edition” article, I mentioned an “unmentionable diver.” I wrote that all I could say was that it was a very cool dive watch with a blue dial from a brand with an R in its name. As you can learn now, I didn’t lie; here it is.Oris Aqu...
Introducing: The Oris Artelier S Purity In Watch Design
The Artelier collection is seldom spoken about in the Oris enthusiast community. Considering that the Aquis, Big Crown, and Divers Sixty-Five range regularly grace the Fratello site, it's surprising that the Artelier receives such little airtime. I asked Oris co-CEO Rolf Studer why that is, and he answered that the Artelier mostly gains appreciation in its home nation of Switzerland. Will these two additions to the Artelier collection breach the borders and gain appreciation outside the homeland? Let's find out.When I spoke to Studer about the Artelier collection, it was at the same time that I was buying an Artelier model of my own, the Calibre 112. I later sold this watch during my house m...
New: The Gold Breitling 140th Anniversary Collection
This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. For Breitling’s 140th anniversary, the Swiss watchmaker builds on this impressive repertoire with the new caliber B19. This technical tour-de-force mechanism includes Breitling’s first-ever manufacture perpetual calendar chronograph. The B19 also has an incredible power reserve of 96 hours on a full wind. With su...
Micromilspec's New Milgraph GMT Chronograph
Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s a lot to like. Many of our readers may be unfamiliar with Micromilspec, so let’s take a closer look.“Who is Micromilspec?” is a fair question. Established in 2019, the brand built its reputation on making custom watches for the military, first responders, and special clients. Understandably, these project...
The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition
We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty.Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The private brand operates within the same tier as MB&F, Urwerk, and more. Sometimes, I like audacious watches from these companies, but I adore them when they’re more than an open dial and a smattering of movement parts. I can appreciate technical wizardry, but why not combine this with a captivating design? Armin Strom has managed t...
Introducing: The Nearly All-Black Ressence Type 3 BB2
In January 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 3 BBB, a “Black, Black, Black” version of its oil-filled mechanical watch. My colleague Dave dubbed it “the brand’s best model yet.” However, Ressence limited the production of the watch to that year only. If you were looking for an all-black Ressence Type 3 after that, you were out of luck; there was just the regular non-DLC-coated production model. But that changes now as the Belgian brand has introduced the Ressence Type 3 BB2, another Type 3 with a matte black mid-case and almost monochrome dial.The Type 3 is a clear example of how Ressence combines its minimalist design philosophy with state-of-the-art technolog...
New: Czapek Antartique Polar Sky And Flying Diamonds
Sometimes a watch release catches us by surprise. Other times, it triggers a response like Didn't that already exist? To call it predictable would sound overly negative, but sometimes a release is just so perfectly on-brand and sensible that it doesn't feel new, even if it is. This is one such release. Czapek marries its flagship sports watch, the Antarctique, with one of its signature dial materials, aventurine. The result, the Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky, looks as if it has been here all along. And that, my dear Fratelli, is a good thing.Czapek releases the new Antarctique Polar Sky in four limited editions. There is a 40.5mm model as well as a 38.5mm Antarctique S with the new dial. Next...
#TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph
I liked the Pontiac Jumping Chronograph instantly. I remember spotting Pontiac watches multiple times, but I never had an urge to jump on any. So I took this as an opportunity to also look briefly into this sonorous-sounding brand’s history.It took me some time to realize why the Pontiac Jumping got my attention so swiftly. Just for the fun of it, before you go on, look at it, close your eyes, and tell me, what chronograph does it remind you of the most? I could name a few similar-looking models, but there is one that comes to my mind first. Blame the bold frame around the date, orange hands, and minute totalizer with a 45-minute mark sitting between 10 and 20. It’s the Nivada Da...
Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their vintage watch wishlists. As you can imagine, these guys spend a lot of time thinking about watches. But when they’re not writing about the latest releases, they’re often lusting after (and hunting down) vintage watches online. It’s a hazard of the job. Today, inspired by RJ’s latest object of desire, the guys lend you insight into the timepieces on their current lists of vintage (and neo-vintage) favorites. But before we get to that, let’s see what’s on their wrists today....
Oohhh.. Now I Need A Royal Oak Chronograph
To quote Don (Michael) Corleone in Godfather Part III, “Just when I thought I was out… they pull me back in!”. Just when I thought that this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo would keep me quiet for some time, my watch friend Michael (not Corleone) mailed me a few days ago, that he pulled the trigger on this fabulous blue dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ref.25860. This predecessor of the current AP ref.26300 chronograph, is mighty interesting. Priced a bit more friendly than its successor, it doesn’t differ that much watch wise.? Although I can’t get it confirmed, the bezel of the newer 26300 is a bit wider than the 25860’s bezel. Not in terms of ...
Speedy Tuesday Russel Crowe wears an Omega Speedmaster in 'The Nice Guys'
Russel Crowe and his SpeedmasterIt's been a while since we saw a Speedmaster in a movie. Of course George Clooney's new picture, Money Monster, is an exception. However, we know that since George is Omega ambassador?it was not such a huge surprise. Well, I just watched the new movie of Ryan Gosling and Russel Crowe, called The Nice Guys. It seems that Mr. Crowe (or his prop master) is back again with the trusted Omega Speedmaster. Why do I say again? Well, this is not the first time we see him in a movie wearing one.State of PlayState of Play, a great crime drama came out 7 years ago. Starring Ben Affleck, Rachel McAdams, Helen Mirren and Russel Crowe among many other A-listers. Crowe plays ...
Launch of the Watches & Pencils Webshop Order Your Watch Art Now
As most of you know, we have a special and creative feature on Fratello Watches: Watches & Pencils. As of today the official shop / website about this feature is launched.In short: What is Watches & Pencils again?It all started with the idea by founder and Fratello team member Teun. A few years ago, he came up with an idea to combine his two passions: watches and art. After he launched the feature it became a popular topic on Fratello Watches. Up until today, a new cartoon is published every month.The process simplified in 3 stepsA dedicated shopTeun: “After each illustration published on the website and Instagram I received lots of individual requests for prints, stickers etce...
#TBT Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG A Sterile Watch
Today's #TBT takes a look at a Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG and it's a watch, when first examined, that doesn't really stand out as something special. That trait, as we'll see, is actually significant. More significant, perhaps, is the fact that the MACV-SOG lore surrounding this Seiko and a couple other variants grew out of a forum posting on the Seiko Citizen Watch Site and has now grown into what I can only describe as an ever-evolving research project. It's fascinating stuff and reminds that in this day of Insta(gram)nt gratification, the method of posting within a forum still bears some serious merit. Yes, today's article is about a watch, but it's also a little about history and the power ...
Grand Seiko SBGA407 Skyflake A Hands-On Review
The Grand Seiko Snowflake is a huge success, and it seems to be the collector’s darling for a while now. But there’s a new hero since this year, the Grand Seiko SBGA407 Skyflake.Of course, Skyflake is not the official name for this Grand Seiko, but enthusiasts used their creativity to come up with something in line with the original Snowflake. When I was in the market for a Grand Seiko watch, I decided against the Snowflake, for two reasons: the use of titanium and the case shape. I wrote about this struggle in this lengthy article. Instead, I went with the stainless steel Grand Seiko GMT ‘Mt. Iwate’ with 44GS inspired case and hi-beat movement. Up to this day, I don&...
First Look: The Maen Skymaster 38 Automatic Chronograph
Maen was founded by two Dutchmen, with an interest in storytelling and watches. This new Maen is no different when it comes to storytelling, as it is inspired by the first transatlantic flight between Amsterdam and New York City, on May 21st, 1946.The Royal Dutch Airlines (KLM) used the Douglas DC-4 Skymaster aircraft to operate this flight to New York City. Enough reason for Maen to pick it up and use it as a tribute for their latest watch: The Maen Skymaster 38 Automatic Chronograph. We like Dutch history for obvious reasons, but we are perhaps even more interested in the watch itself. It will be available in five different dial versions, and Maen sent us two of them: the Skymaster 38 Auto...
The Best Of Geneva Watch Days 2020
Finally, we were able to hit the road and our first major trip was to the Geneva Watch Days 2020 event. We take a very brief look at some of our favorite novelties.It feels like forever since we’ve been in show mode. With cancellations becoming the norm, it was actually invigorating to set ourselves up with a packed four-day schedule filled with new watches during Geneva Watch Days 2020. We promise to come back with loads of hands-on reviews in the near future, but we thought it best to mention the watches that left a lasting impression. Before that, though, let’s talk a little about the event and how it felt to attend.Geneva Watch Days 2020With a pandemic still very much at larg...