Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Vs. Breitling
In this Sunday morning column, two of our writers go head-to-head in an epic showdown for the ages. Strong opinions and hysterical hyperbole are welcome (so feel free to join in with the fun in the comments section below). And don’t forget to let us know which watches you’d like to see torn to shreds/effusively exalted next week. We’ll try and feature as many of our readers’ choices as we can. After last week’s battle of sophistication vs. opulence, the Omega Aqua Terra beat the Yacht-Master in the end. This week the Breitling Chronomat 42 B01 battles the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G for a showdown of the B01 movement.Last week looked like it was going to be ...
Edox Delfin Mecano: A Clash Of Classic Watches (2021)
Today, I’m taking a look at the Edox Delfin Mecano model. I’m not going to beat around the bush or pretend I’m seeing something other than I am so I’ll get right to it: does anyone else get a strong Zenith Defy vibe from this model? Yes, the Zenith Defy Skeleton models have a five-spoke design where the Delfin has a more symmetrical six-spoke design, but to canter through a watch review without pointing out that glaring similarity would be professionally questionable at best, unforgivably incompetent at worst.It is often said that there is little novelty in modern watchmaking. I would be inclined to agree in (very) broad strokes, simply because so much that can be don...
Geneva Watch Days: Bvlgari's Bevy Of New Beauties (2021)
If a job is worth doing, then it’s worth doing properly. At least, that’s how the saying goes. It seems that Bvlgari has heeded these words of wisdom, and, at Geneva Watch Days 2021, it has made the most of the occasion by launching five new watches. That’s a lot of fresh horological goodness right there, so let’s take a brief look at each of these new models in the Bvlgari Geneva Watch Days Roundup 2021!Bvlgari Octo Roma WorldtimerThe Fratello team has traveled over to Geneva from our various home bases across Europe, so it feels appropriate to start with a travel watch. It’s nice that, after 18 months, we are finally seeing parts of the world open up again. I ...
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Limited Edition Of 77 Pieces (2021)
Okay, okay: this isn’t a “core” collection model, because it (like most Antarctique models) is limited. However, in comparison to the piece unique Czapek entered into the Only Watch Auction 2022, this piece is readily available. There will be 77 units of this appetite-whetting prince among men. Smash your piggy banks. Raid your savings accounts. The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante is the best thing of 2021 so far.Alright, maybe it’s the second-best thing after our very own Czapek Antarctique Viridian Green Limited Edition. I didn’t want to lean too heavily into that because, well, as you know I’m?somewhat biased. So let’s remove my verdant baby from t...
LIVE TICKER: Geneva Watch Days 2021 Ticker Feed REFRESH!
It’s that time of year again. The Geneva Watch Days event is here. As requested, we’re aiming to provide you, our dear readers (and viewers in this case) the most immersive experience ever. Here you will find our frequently updated ticker article, with all the novelties we see throughout the fair. Don’t forget to keep an eye on IG live. Frequent sessions will pop up throughout the day to keep you abreast of developments. If you miss them, don’t worry. We’ll add everything to reels and link to it here.Wednesday, September 1st, 17:45 PM - Greubel ForseyAs I am sure you imagine, it is nothing short of exceptional to see the works of Greubel Forsey up close and pers...
How Watches Work: A Guide To Watch Buckles And Clasps (2021)
Watch buckles and clasps can take many forms. In today’s market, we are truly spoiled for choice. For some brands, the quest to manufacture the “perfect clasp” is eternal. At times, it can seem as we horologically smitten enthusiasts will never guess what nifty buckle innovations lay just around the bend. As watch manufacturers strive to set themselves apart, buckles and clasps, once an afterthought in design, are now becoming ever more critical to a brand’s prestige.For these brands, determining what makes the “perfect clasp” may not be as straightforward as one might imagine. The least we can do here at Fratello, however, is to make sure you understand y...
Hands-On With The Orodeus Sea Odyssey Dive Watch (2021)
If you’ve read a significant number of my articles, you’ll know that microbrands aren’t my typical focus. I have nothing against them at all; they simply aren’t where I look first. However, every so often something comes along that piques my interest. A recent example of this is the Orodeus Sea Odyssey.Several months ago, I was scrolling through my Instagram feed. The normal wrist shots came up as well as a bunch of stills. Then, I stumbled upon a post that showed a magazine article with a watch on one of the pages. It was from someone I follow, @analoglust. His feed was showing an excerpt from Esquire that discussed independent watchmakers and the small microbrand di...
Introducing The All-New Tudor Pelagos 39
Just before everyone went on summer holiday, Tudor introduced the 39mm reinterpretation of the Ranger. And now, just while we’re all rubbing the beach sand off our feet, the brand is back with another 39mm watch. Namely, a very welcome, smaller version of the Pelagos. The watch stays very true to the design language of the Pelagos family. But Tudor also tweaked the design to make it a unique member of said family. Let’s take a better look at the all-new Tudor Pelagos 39.The Tudor Pelagos collection stands for true tool watches. The cases and bracelets are made of brushed titanium, and the designs of the bezel and dial bezels mainly focus on readability. The crown guards protect t...
The Differences: Speedmaster Reduced Vs. The Moonwatch
One of the most common questions we get on the Speedmaster concerns the Speedmaster Reduced (reference 3510.50). What is the difference between the Speedmaster Professional and this “Reduced” version? If you’re a veteran Speedy enthusiast, this won’t be news to you, but as it keeps popping up, we must answer the call. Especially with the popularity of the Speedmaster today, the demand for the Reduced has increased. Let us help make you aware of the critical differences.Image source: LOVE AND FUN PRODUCTION UG (via Chrono24).Moonwatch versus ReducedThis discontinued Speedmaster is often mistaken for the popular Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. If you are not that de...
Introducing The New Bvlgari Bvlgari Watches In Black DLC
As a watch brand, Bvlgari has only recently come into my purview by virtue of the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Ultra was the thinnest mechanical watch in the world for a while. I admired the engineering prowess that went into making it. From a design standpoint, however, it wasn't my cup of tea. Digging deeper into the brand's catalog, one will find the Bvlgari Bvlgari, known by some as the “BB”. This is a collection that sits better within my horological inclinations and perhaps yours as well.?Bvlgari is a brand that has been extensively covered on Fratello, from the Octo Finissimo and the modern, moderately priced Aluminum to the BB, which RJ covered back in 2020. One of its oldes...
Introducing: Fratello Minase M-3 "Very Peri"
Today is an exciting day here at Fratello HQ as we are announcing our second project with Japanese watchmaker Minase. Taking the form of the Fratello Minase M-3, this is a watch that we hope appeals to fans and classic Japanese watchmaking purists. With a beautiful purple dial and fantastic Sallaz polishing, the M-3 is a model previously unknown outside of Japan.To top it off, this stunning watch will be available for a very wallet-friendly price of $2,976?including 21% Dutch VAT. If you don’t live in the Netherlands, fear not; VAT/taxes are adjusted to your locale at the point of checkout once you’ve added your shipping location. If you’re outside of the EU, VAT is entirel...
A Rant Or Two And Geneva Watch Days Begins
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Balazs and Mike rant a touch after talking about a number of topics and before finishing with Geneva Watch Days. We were feeling a bit feisty on this one, so forgive us or don't!...
Arnold & Son Introduces The Luna Magna Ultimate II
We could say that the people at Arnold & Son are quite obsessed with the moonphase complication. No wonder - their brand name was inspired by John Arnold, an 18th-century watchmaker famous for his marine chronometers. Arnold & Son’s Luna Magna (“Great Moon”) collection pays tribute to the celestial body that was used to navigate the vast seas back then. After last year’s dark blue version, the brand now introduces the Luna Magna Ultimate II, a lagoon-blue iteration of its impressive bejeweled 3D moonphase.To tell you the truth, I haven’t seen this watch in person. I’m saying this because, most of the time, the pictures and the real-life experience ...
Why I Bought An Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph
For as long as I’ve been into watches, I’ve been a fan of the Ebel Sport Classic models, especially the chronograph version. It's not only about the Zenith El Primero movement inside that ticks at 36,000vph but also the shape of the case and the very thin wave bracelet. Admittedly, it does help that it was the watch that Don Johnson was rocking in his role as Sonny Crockett in Miami Vice. If I’m not mistaken, it was one of the first TV shows sponsored by a watch brand. Even guest stars, such as Phil Collins, received an Ebel watch to wear during the show.Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1134901When I got interested in watches in the 1990s, Ebel was a big name. Not only profes...
Introducing: The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires?
The Neuchatel-based watchmaker HYT?launched into the horological universe some ten years ago with a hydromechanical watch that indicated the time using brightly colored liquids. Then, earlier this year, HYT brought out the impressive Conical Tourbillon Black Eklipse (limited to just eight pieces). Now the brand has introduced its latest watch, the HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires. This model builds on the Eklipse, offering much of the same except with a different aesthetic twist.Earlier this year, my colleague Lex described the HYT Conical Tourbillon Black Eklipse “like a star system within a star system - a system gone rogue.” It is a pretty accurate summation of my fir...
Introducing: The IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces
It is no secret that I am a big fan of IWC, both vintage and modern. The IWC “Mark” series of pilot’s watches are some of the best in the business, and I am the lucky owner of an IWC Mark XV, which was my contender for my “go anywhere, do anything” watch. Today, I am excited to be writing about IWC's latest introduction in the pilot's series, the IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces (ref. IW326905). This model has a fully luminous dial, IWC's first pilot's watch with this feature. Let's take a look.IWC says it has taken inspiration from its collaborations with the U.S. Navy squadrons in making this watch. First off, I have to say that I find the design lang...
New: Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date
Frederique Constant is about Swiss craftsmanship within a value-driven price band that can inspire a new, younger clientele to value wristwatches. And with this new creation, the brand invites us into a world of complicated, asymmetric dial designs and some pretty impressive features. The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture could very much have what it takes.But this time, we are treated to a big step up in both materiality and complications as well as two of four models in precious metals. It is also the first time we see Frederique Constant catering to the top-tier collecting community with a limited 35-piece edition in platinum.Frederique Constant Classic Power ...
Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 EE In Eucalyptus Green
Choosing to buy and wear a Ressence watch is already somewhat of a statement. The brand’s unconventional way of presenting the time on your wrist, in combination with its very clean design language, is different from any other watch out there. But if you’d like to take it one step further, you can choose to get a Ressence in one of the striking colors the brand offers. For example, what about this new and super smooth eucalyptus-green version of the Type 3?Although most Ressence watches begin as white, gray, or black versions, the brand is certainly no stranger to using bright and colorful tones on its dials. Look, for example, at the brushed blue Type 1 Round and the sage-green...
New Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Auto & Perpetual Calendar CarbonGold
With this year's Geneva Watch Days well and truly underway, we now have something new from Bvlgari to share. The watchmaking jewelers, as they refer to themselves, add two new models to the Octo Finissimo range. Or, rather, two existing models get rebuilt in a combination of forged carbon and gold. And the result is rather striking to look at!Bvlgari has taken its Octo Finissimo Automatic Small Seconds and its Perpetual Calendar back to the case maker for new exoskeletons. Let's have a closer look at the resulting new models.Octo Finissimo Automatic CarbonGoldThe first model to get the CarbonGold treatment is the Octo Finissimo Automatic. This is the base model of the Octo Finissimo range, t...
Introducing: Oris Bracenet Aquis Date Dive Watches
When Oris released the Upcycle Aquis with dials made of melted PET ocean plastic, it was a novel and radical approach to incorporating ocean plastics into a watch. It resulted in unique watches (both conceptually and individually) that have become fan favorites and conversation starters. Now Oris is back with another collaboration, a pair of watches championing ocean clean-up, and incorporating upcycled materials into dials. The Oris Bracenet Aquis takes a similar approach as the Upcycle Aquis, except this time using discarded ocean “ghost nets” to create the dials. The result? Swirling blue-green dials that evoke the dream of a pristine ocean.Oris and ocean conservation go hand ...